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Old 05-04-2004, 04:45 PM   #1
IonizedBlack
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Default Dash kit vs. painting pieces

I apologize in advance for the numerous amount of probably stupid questions I'm about to ask, but any insight would be helpful.

I'd like to tackle modifying the dash, and I'm now deciding between either purchasing a carbon fiber (or possibly brushed aluminum) dash kit, and painting the dash pieces in some color scheme to be determined.

1. Where could I find a carbon fiber or brushed aluminum dash kit?
2. How much would I expect to spend on the kit, and how difficult is the installation process?
3. If I decided on painting the pieces, how do I remove them to paint them?
4. What kind of paint would be best to use/Any tips on the actual process of painting?
5. Would you recommend the kit or painting?

Any color scheme suggestions for a black Ion 3? Nothing is done color-wise yet, so I don't have to worry about clashing.

Thank you so much!!

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Old 05-04-2004, 05:05 PM   #2
SlimSaturn
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I was thinking of the same thing last night. the painting process is simple. Sand paper 80 grit to scuff it up. Then clean the plastic. Put on the bondo let it dry, sand it with 80 grit and add mroe bondo if needed, sand with 80 grit, then sand with 240 grit and 320 grit wet sand for better results. Then primer, then you can paint it. As for removing the stuff i haven't even looked into that. as for the paiting process i am having a buddy paint for me who does auto painting. I am thinking of doing it in silver

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Old 05-04-2004, 05:07 PM   #3
BLUEION2
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heres a few pics of my dash, if this helps. I used both paint and the carbon fiber trim pieces.




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Old 05-04-2004, 05:11 PM   #4
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did you just paint it right on the plastic?

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Old 05-04-2004, 05:14 PM   #5
washamur
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Yeah, I just finished getting my Carbon Fiber Dash Kit put into place ... no pics yet.

I ordered my kit from Wooddash.com and got it pretty quick, and it's absolutely well made.

Pretty easy to install, just take your time and do it right. Comes with 27 pieces and shipping is FREE!

Not too sure about painting though ... if you have a place that can "dip" the pieces, that's probably the best thing to do.

Like BlueIONDriver did ... looks amazing!

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Old 05-04-2004, 09:44 PM   #6
jmettee
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Quote:
Originally posted by SlimSaturn
I was thinking of the same thing last night. the painting process is simple. Sand paper 80 grit to scuff it up. Then clean the plastic. Put on the bondo let it dry, sand it with 80 grit and add mroe bondo if needed, sand with 80 grit, then sand with 240 grit and 320 grit wet sand for better results. Then primer, then you can paint it. As for removing the stuff i haven't even looked into that. as for the paiting process i am having a buddy paint for me who does auto painting. I am thinking of doing it in silver
WOAH! I wouldn't touch anything plastic with 80 grit! That's way too rough. I would start with 220 grit. You just need to lightly scuff the paint.

I just painted my IP trim & the radio bezel (& I have the crosses from my wheels primered right now). I used fine (burgundy) Scotchbrite & it easily scuffed the dash pieces.

FYI....many of the plastic pieces on the dash are painted....the IP cover & the radio bezel are both painted....you'll see this when you take them off & look at the back.

I'm using Krylon primer (is lists plastic on the can), & Dupli-Color auto paint, with Dupli-color clearcoat. It's going on good....should last & not fade since it's auto paint.....time will tell, but scuffing & cleaning the plastic is key.



J

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Old 05-05-2004, 12:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by jmettee
WOAH! I wouldn't touch anything plastic with 80 grit! That's way too rough. I would start with 220 grit. You just need to lightly scuff the paint.

I just painted my IP trim & the radio bezel (& I have the crosses from my wheels primered right now). I used fine (burgundy) Scotchbrite & it easily scuffed the dash pieces.

FYI....many of the plastic pieces on the dash are painted....the IP cover & the radio bezel are both painted....you'll see this when you take them off & look at the back.

I'm using Krylon primer (is lists plastic on the can), & Dupli-Color auto paint, with Dupli-color clearcoat. It's going on good....should last & not fade since it's auto paint.....time will tell, but scuffing & cleaning the plastic is key.



J


wow.....
thats very tasteful.... i like it alot!!

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Old 05-05-2004, 08:53 AM   #8
Esca
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Is the Duplic-Color clear coat a gloss finish?

I want to keep to the factory dull/satin finish, but am having trouble finding auto clear coat that has the satin finish. Can i just use any satin finish listed for use with plastics?

...
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Old 05-05-2004, 08:54 AM   #9
BlueIonDriver
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I would think that once you have applied a base color coat (useing plastic paint) that anything ELSE you would put on it, as in clear coating, would actually be adhering to the other coat of paint and not hte plastic, so you shouldnt be restrained from useing any clear coat you want.

...
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Old 05-05-2004, 09:19 AM   #10
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Thats what I was thinking as well. But I'm more worried about the durability of the clear coat and the heat it will undergo during the summer.

...
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JS STB, Progress rear swaybar, Eibach springs

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Old 05-05-2004, 09:23 AM   #11
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get an automotive grade paint.

...
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:45 AM   #12
jmettee
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Quote:
Originally posted by Esca
Is the Duplic-Color clear coat a gloss finish?

I want to keep to the factory dull/satin finish, but am having trouble finding auto clear coat that has the satin finish. Can i just use any satin finish listed for use with plastics?
Yes, the Dupli-Color I used is gloss (the cap is hazy, but that's cuz it's plastic). You would need to look for a Satin clearcoat, but in the world of autos, the only satin/non-gloss paint I've seen is primer. You may be out of luck, but I don't know. Check out a parts store & see what's available.

J

...
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Old 05-05-2004, 11:46 AM   #13
Esca
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really? doesn't appear to be very glossy over the silver paint... if i didn't know, i would have thought you used a satin finish.

...
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JS STB, Progress rear swaybar, Eibach springs

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Old 05-05-2004, 11:46 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlueIonDriver
get an automotive grade paint.
agreed, anything else will just fade & probably will not be a durable to withstand the heat.

J

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"Giggity Giggity Goo" -Quagmire

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Old 05-05-2004, 11:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Esca
really? doesn't appear to be very glossy over the silver paint... if i didn't know, i would have thought you used a satin finish.
I'll take some closeups tonite....it is glossy. Check the reflection of the gauges ....that pod piece has texture, so it isn't like a vehicle finish gloss. The radio bezel does seem to have a satin finish from that pic.

I also painted some more plastic, put the clearcoat on this morning so it'll be ready to re-install tonite. Stay tuned....

J

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Old 05-05-2004, 12:02 PM   #16
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heres and idea.........
take it to a body shop in your area, have um primer it , spray it and clear it with all automotive paint! thatd be awesome, and would be perfect

...
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Old 05-05-2004, 12:10 PM   #17
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would flat + clear = satin? hmmmm that's interesting, that may work. Good thinking Blue....

maybe it's look flat, bust still have a gloss when looking from an angle....

J

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Old 05-05-2004, 10:51 PM   #18
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After reading the responses, I've added to my huge list of questions.

1. How do I actually get these pieces off?!
2. BLUEION2, where is your dash kit from? (I also love the look of your interior!
3. As for the simulated CF kits, how does it actually look up close? I mean I know it's not going to be identical to real carbon fiber, but how far off is it?
4. Washamur, about how long did the install take you?
5. Any more pictures? I appreciate the responses thus far!

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Old 05-05-2004, 11:03 PM   #19
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IonizedBlack, where in PA are you located?

To remove the radio bezel, you gotta pull like hell on the vents (straight back). It's tough, but it'll pop. I think you have to start at the top....if you start at the bottom, you'll probably break the plastic. Also, don't use a screwdriver to pry as you will break or mar the plastic. Once you get one fastener to pop out, you can work your way around the bezel....there are 6 fasteners.

The IP cover has 1 bolt that you can get to after you remove the radio bezel. Then you have 5 (3 in front, 2 in back) of the snap fasteners to pull off for the IP pod. A trick is o work from the underside & use the handle of a tool to push the fasteners up rather than pulling up on the IP pod.

It's tought, but if you're carefuly, but strong, you'll get it.

J

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Old 05-05-2004, 11:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by jmettee
IonizedBlack, where in PA are you located?

To remove the radio bezel, you gotta pull like hell on the vents (straight back). It's tough, but it'll pop. I think you have to start at the top....if you start at the bottom, you'll probably break the plastic. Also, don't use a screwdriver to pry as you will break or mar the plastic. Once you get one fastener to pop out, you can work your way around the bezel....there are 6 fasteners.

The IP cover has 1 bolt that you can get to after you remove the radio bezel. Then you have 5 (3 in front, 2 in back) of the snap fasteners to pull off for the IP pod. A trick is o work from the underside & use the handle of a tool to push the fasteners up rather than pulling up on the IP pod.

It's tought, but if you're carefuly, but strong, you'll get it.

J
I'm in Lancaster. Also, thanks so much for the crucial info.

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