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Old 06-30-2019, 08:40 AM   #1
rfisher
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Default the old crank position sensor trick

hi sages- how does one change out the crank position sensor. where is it in the 01 L100 4 cylinder with manual trans. figure it must me near the flywheel, buried and hidden . is its replacement hellacious and an open invitation clipper opportunities at the dealers shop? thanks tons bob f

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Old 06-30-2019, 10:46 AM   #2
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Default Re: the old crank position sensor trick

Starter removal is necessary. The crank sensor is on the engine block, hidden by the starter. You can guess repair shop fees for labor needed for this job.

Are you sure the crank sensor failed? What are engine symptoms? In general, if the engine runs, it isn't a crank sensor issue.

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Old 06-30-2019, 01:12 PM   #3
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Default Re: the old crank position sensor trick

hi fd- figured it has to be next to a magnet or other signal plate on the spinning flywheel. don't have any problem yet. in fact haven't replaced the starter yet or this sensor either . have driven this car since new in 01 now with 182k.miles. just a glance looks like a hellacious job. have you done a starter yet on this model? have done many starters on dodges, chevs and fords. some deserved more f bombs than others, but all were doable and rwd cars though. thanks tons bob f

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Old 06-30-2019, 02:22 PM   #4
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Default Re: the old crank position sensor trick

I'm not familiar with starter removal on 2.2L engines. The crank sensor has its own magnet and coil. Mounted to the engine block so it can detect the machined teeth on the crankshaft. As teeth pass by, the gaps between teeth allows the sensor to generate a signal. The signals are described as pulse trains, continuous precise timing signals that allows the engine computer to run the entire EFI system. If the crankshaft sensor fails or becomes intermittent, the engine simply dies or fails to startup. The ecm turns on the fuel pump, initiates ignition for spark and pulses injectors. No crank sensor signals = no fuel pump, no spark, no injector pulses - turning the ecm into a door stop.

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Old 06-30-2019, 02:58 PM   #5
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Default Re: the old crank position sensor trick

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfisher View Post
hi fd- figured it has to be next to a magnet or other signal plate on the spinning flywheel. don't have any problem yet. in fact haven't replaced the starter yet or this sensor either . have driven this car since new in 01 now with 182k.miles. just a glance looks like a hellacious job. have you done a starter yet on this model? have done many starters on dodges, chevs and fords. some deserved more f bombs than others, but all were doable and rwd cars though. thanks tons bob f
Fdryer, is correct, remove starter to access the CPS. It's hidden behind it.

To remove the starter, you will need a ratchet, 4" short extension and a 15MM socket if I remember correctly.

There are 2 bolts that hold the starter to the block. Remove the TOP bolt first. The top bolt is hidden above the starter. (Have to do this by feel) Then the bottom bolt. Remove the Battery wire from the large terminal. Remove the purple start wire from the small terminal.

The CPS is held on by just 1- 10MM bolt. Easy to remove this.

Reverse steps to complete after CPS replacement.

Not a difficult job but a little bit of a PITA due to that top starter bolt. It's a little fiddly.

...
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Old 06-30-2019, 09:00 PM   #6
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Default Re: the old crank position sensor trick

thanks fd and rb6- good instructions. surmise there is a circuit wire coming out of the cps to the ecm too. also would think you need swivel/ ujoint on the socket to remove the top bolt. thanks again bob f

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Old 07-02-2019, 02:49 PM   #7
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Default Re: the old crank position sensor trick

Quote:
Originally Posted by rb6667 View Post
Fdryer, is correct, remove starter to access the CPS. It's hidden behind it.

To remove the starter, you will need a ratchet, 4" short extension and a 15MM socket if I remember correctly.

There are 2 bolts that hold the starter to the block. Remove the TOP bolt first. The top bolt is hidden above the starter. (Have to do this by feel) Then the bottom bolt. Remove the Battery wire from the large terminal. Remove the purple start wire from the small terminal.

The CPS is held on by just 1- 10MM bolt. Easy to remove this.

Reverse steps to complete after CPS replacement.

Not a difficult job but a little bit of a PITA due to that top starter bolt. It's a little fiddly.
What kinda designer did they use for that engine? It's obviously wasn't made by a Repair Mechanic to fix.

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Old 07-02-2019, 05:05 PM   #8
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Default Re: the old crank position sensor trick

Russet, neither I nor most repair mechanics have an engineering degree. I would assume engines are designed by mechanical engineers, made from machinists, assembled and tested by engineering techs before mass production is approved. While its easy to play armchair quarterback and second guess why a crank sensor is located in places seemingly inaccessible when its not, I think you should study the design of the 2.2L engine and examine the machined teeth on the crankshaft that dictates where the crank sensor is placed before criticising questionable sensor placement.

Some of the very best mechanical engineers are unknown but their contributions to society show exemplary examples; the Golden Gate Bridge, Brooklyn Bridge, NYC above ground subways, every bridge in the world, car engines from the beginning, etc. One of the worst engineering designs unbeknownst to the designers at the time was the 1940 Tacoma Narrows Bridge. It became infamous from film footage recording winds generating resonant frequencies showing the flexing of the roadway accelerated until it destroyed itself. Engineers at the time did not know about winds affecting large surfaces. A lesson in aerodynamics with wind flow, vectors and how much force winds generate over surfaces became part of bridge design after the Tacoma bridge incident.

When attempting to determine crank sensor placement outside the engine block, a crucial factor is where the machined teeth are configured on crankshafts. As in life, compromises are made.

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