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#1 |
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I saw this method used by others so I thought I would try it. No leaks yet.
Clean the area. Cut a donor strip from the tank. Melt a valley along the crack with the tip of the soldering iron. Melt the donor material into the crack. ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by tgferg67global; 04-12-2011 at 12:21 AM. |
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#2 |
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Posts: 111
2002 SL2
2002 SL2
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Interesting idea, thanks for the writeup. Let us know how it holds up.
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#3 |
Master Member
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What "others" have you seen doing this?
I've been an owner now since 1997 and I have never seen this method used at all... in 99% of most cases- replacing the radiator is the best fix for this; but if you have fixed it and it holds up, this would be an unorthodox way to keep the radiator going in the car.
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Bryan 94SL2 HCE, "Pearl" 99 SL 94SL2 260K Miles 1/15 97SW2 266K Miles 2/15 Always 94SC1 340,501 Miles Org. Engine/Auto Trans 2/97-10/08 Gone 3/12 92SL1 05VUE 91SC |
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#4 |
Super Member
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Very interesting. I've never seen it before, either, though I think about it every time I go the Harbor Freight and see this "plastic welding" tool they have.
Someone researched the type of plastic used in the end caps and used a particular epoxy designed for that type of plastic Someone else (hein?) uses a piece of lexan and regular epoxy and puts a patch over that area If I ever have such a crack, I may use all the methods - melt it shut and coat it with that special epoxy, then slap a plastic patch onto it.
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I'm not worthy to grovel in the shadow of Signmaster's wisdom 11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 151k DD 7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project 12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles |
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#5 | |
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http://www.ehow.com/how_4822270_repa...radiators.html |
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#6 |
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Location: Forked River, NJ
Posts: 95
1995 SW2
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When my radiator burst, I did the correct repair...... I replaced it. That I would imagine would only be a temporary 'fix' till you have the money to replace it. The plastic is weakened in that area and it's all in due time that it will fail again with the temperature fluctuation and (slight)pressure. I'd like to be proved wrong though.
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John 96 Tbird 4.6L, 95 Saturn SW2 |
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#7 | |
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If it fails it would most likely leak slowly as it did before. Don't forget the repair is now part of the tank. |
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#8 |
Super Member
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I gotta wonder, with the typical location/shape of that crack, if it's not due in part to the presence of the cooler line, and the fact that the powertrain moves relative to the body. I'm thinking a fix like this would work better if it were recommissioned into a 5-speed car, without that influence.
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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#11 |
Master Member
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When you said "Other People that you have seen doing this"; I immediately thought that there were others on saturnfans that had done a repair like this...
Now I see the links from E-how and other websites that have mentioned this-- More power to you that you were able to repair, and I hope that it holds up, but in this instance; I would rather replace it with a new unit. When it comes to anything that is related to the coolant system (radiator, water pump, etc.) or electrical (battery, starter, etc.) I feel it is always better to replace with a new item rather then trying to fix the broken item... just my thoughts--- ymmv.
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Bryan 94SL2 HCE, "Pearl" 99 SL 94SL2 260K Miles 1/15 97SW2 266K Miles 2/15 Always 94SC1 340,501 Miles Org. Engine/Auto Trans 2/97-10/08 Gone 3/12 92SL1 05VUE 91SC |
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#12 |
Master Member
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Thanks for your post. There are a lot of smart people on this site, but sometimes people think that their way is the only way.
Keep us posted.
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2002 SL2 Manual - new in November, 2001 As of 09/30/17: 223,751 Miles - SOLD New owner report of 08/08/19: 234,408 Miles 2013 Mazda 3 HB - new in October 2012 As of 11/12/20: 78,895 Miles |
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#13 | |
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Location: Philadelphia, PA suburbs
Posts: 838
1994 SC1
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My concern is that even if you repaired that particular crack to be as good as new, that just may mean that the radiator's second most weakest point will soon give. For example, in my case, the radiator likely has over 160k miles on it. If you want to experiment, great, let us know how it goes, but for $80, I'd rather put an entirely new radiator in and forget it. But if you have the time but not a lot of money, or if you are dumping the car soon, your way might be the way to go. |
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#14 |
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My car had a slow leak in the area since 2004, 115000 miles ago. Car has 215k now. I added a little fluid every few years. The leak never got any worse until I recently replaced the thermostat. Considering the above scenario I am fairly confident it's going to hold. If the area was under such stress it would have degraded over the years.
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#15 |
Senior Member
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Location: Pacifica by San Francisco – 5sp – Engine rebuild with the help of people here at 177K due to 500mi/qt oil consumption. After 2yrs I am back to 40mpg+ after discovering the refirb head I used was bad. Car runs better than a top. Now at 214k.
Posts: 1,467
1996 SL2
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Now that you have at least a working solution I would use the time looking for a great price on a great replacement. That way you have it staged if the current does not last as long as you hoped.
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#16 |
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Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 430
1995 SC2
1996 SC2
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I've done this a number of times on different S-Series. All I can say is, if you're interested in doing it, go and try it. If not, get a new radiator.
The tanks actually have quite a bit of fiberglass in them. The repairs I did surprisingly held up quite a while though. But I would say it takes practice to get right (and I think most people on here won't have the chance to gain practice first). It would makes sense, but fortunately that spot is this only radiators weakness (short of cooling fin damage). lol
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What is your Saturn's oil economy? Canada Saturn owners REVOLT!!! Improper factory spark plugs! c.c If you are in the Southern Wisconsin area, check out: facebook.com/SaturnFix |
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