2008 Saturn Astra - won't start, clicking sound

[Petroleum]

So I just changed the oil in my Saturn astra and I disconnected the blue plug labeled "EF" from the ignition module wiring to have more room to get the oil filter out -- I forgot I didn't have my the socket I needed for the oil filter so I plugged it back in.

When I was done with the oil change I go to turn my car on and it won't start. The display and radio screen just flicker and I hear clicking a couple of times and then nothing?

The radio is on and I didn't disconnect the battery, so I am assuming my starter is messing/messed up??

Where is the starter located on the engine so I can do the tap-the-starter-solenoid trick. Also, is there a way I can check at home to see if the starter is bad?

[fdryer]

Is your battery discharged? This may be a simple dead battery issue. If you have a charger, charge the battery or if you have jumper cables, a boost. Are the battery cables clean and free of corrosion? Snug connections, not loose?

[Petroleum]

My radio is on and working fine, so I assume it's not the battery? I don't have cable but I can take it out and get it tested. Lemme go see if my friend has cables in the back of his truck.

I would think if it were the battery nothing would come on or it would be really dim, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

The cable connections have no corrosion and they are not lose whatsoever.

[Petroleum]

On second though that may be it. My headlights do seem underpowered. Maybe the battery is drained. I'll take it to O'Reilly's to get it tested.

[fdryer]

And check your owner's manual. There's some discussion that GM is cutting back on OEM battery capacity. Some models are only warranted for 36 or 48 months when it was 5/6 yrs for many years.

[darek_dade]

When my battery died (after three years), the radio kept on working but the car wouldn't start. I was also getting the clicking noise. Pretty sure it's just the battery.

[Petroleum]

Thanks all for the help. It was the battery. It was bulging when I pulled it out. It tested bad. Got a new one. I previously replaced the factory battery when it went bad two years ago -- didn't think to get it replaced under battery warranty since car already had over 36K mi. What a noob mistake. And, of course, this one that just went bad was from O'reilly's and it was two months out of their two year free replacement warranty, so they only prorated it.

Sorry, for the late replay, I had my last final of the semester Saturday from 7-10 and it was stressing me out.

Tune in this week as I chronicle: new brake pads, transmission fluid change, and most importantly fixing my automatic shifter which seems to need a new bushing at the transmission linkage.

[Weeman]

Just so people are aware, your battery needs cranking amps to starts. It may still show (with a volt meter or tester) 12+ volts IE you can still use your radio, power windows etc. but the moment you draw the cranking amps and add load the battery will fail. The clicking sound is a give away that your battery is not performing under load.

This does not mean your battery is defective. I have found this most common on Chrysler vehicles, when you hear the clicking the battery terminals could simply be corroded. I have seen this situation many times. Corroded terminals can block the cranking amps and prevent the alternator from charging your battery. First step is to charge your battery, clean the terminals and ensure they are tight before replacing it.

Be sure to clean your battery terminals before winter. It's a good maintenance habit so your not stranded in the cold.