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#21 | ||||
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 13
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![]() I am working on a 93 sl1 I just rebuilt the motor and replaced the clutch now when the clutch is pushed it is really soft and the motor won't start
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#22 | ||||
Master Member
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#23 | ||||
New Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 8
1997 SL2
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![]() After several months of difficult shifting I found this article. Spot on!! Since it happened over time I didn't notice the clutch engagement spot moving closer to the floor, but that is what happened. It went from 1 inch from the floor to about 2 inches from the top after replacing the master and slave unit.
If you are going to make the change, just go ahead and change out your motor mount while you have everything taken apart. Also if you have ABS you don't have to unbolt and move it out of the way but it will be very tight.
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#24 | ||||
Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 67
1997 SL2
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![]() Wow! I am so glad I saw this thread! I just picked up a 120k mile 1997 SL2 (my 2nd saturn...old one was 96 SC1), and I feel like I it is a lot harder to change gears than my SC1 ever was, and the pedal is a lot lower to the floor. I will do these test in the morning. Clutch and MC/Slave kits are the same, but I'd much rather perform the labor involved in changing the MC/slave than the clutch!
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#25 | ||||
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 9
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![]() Back again!
I posted about a no-start/no-crank last summer, got some input and experienced the nightmare of swapping the starter. (After pulling the alternator and swapping the battery. I'm still emotionally scarred.) My clutch bombed out, (clearly), and I had some symptoms prior to the failure.
I suppose it's safe to assume it's the hydraulics? I'm praying it is. Pulling the engine is not something I'm looking forward to, and I can only burn $100 or so, at this point. ![]() Those of you who can't seem to locate the inspection hole, on my 1997 SC2, there's a rubber dust boot around the slave cylinder, pressed flush against the housing. It's not hard plastic, so it can be pried away a bit. You'll find the inspection hole under the boot, next to the slave on the back side. I HAD to pull the battery, airbox, overpressure box, and battery tray to get at it. When you put the wire in, it MUST be perpendicular to the housing, parallel to the slave cylinder. Any angle will throw off an accurate measurement. I used a white coat hanger wire, btw, with a Sharpie. My thanks to you, Barn Owl. I hope this will get me back on the road. Scott
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