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Old 03-28-2007, 11:17 AM   #1
dragon370
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Default "drl conversion"

daytime running lights? conversion to what?

people talk about this mod. explain, someone who knows about it or has done it.

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Old 03-28-2007, 11:47 AM   #2
1.9ltrsof_fun
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

there are A LOT of othere threads that talk about this. even have pics to show you whats what.

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Old 03-28-2007, 01:57 PM   #3
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon370 View Post
daytime running lights? conversion to what?

people talk about this mod. explain, someone who knows about it or has done it.
not sure. i've "converted" mine so they are off when i want them to be. did it to my 96sl2 and my 99sl1. very cheap, easy mod...

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Old 03-28-2007, 02:19 PM   #4
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

Quote:
Originally Posted by S3aturnR View Post
not sure. i've "converted" mine so they are off when i want them to be. did it to my 96sl2 and my 99sl1. very cheap, easy mod...

s3aturnr
did you just install a switch??

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Old 03-28-2007, 07:52 PM   #5
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

Depending on how tightly your parking brake is set the switch is already "built in." It only depends on how tight it's set because if it drags the brakes on the first click you don't wanna use it for this application.

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Old 03-28-2007, 09:48 PM   #6
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Wrench Re: "drl conversion"

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon370 View Post
daytime running lights? conversion to what?

people talk about this mod. explain, someone who knows about it or has done it.
I got your DRL conversion right here...

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Old 03-29-2007, 08:20 AM   #7
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

Quote:
Originally Posted by aperseghin View Post
did you just install a switch??
yup. got one of those illuminated rocker switches for it. if you hook it up right, the switch will light up when you turn on the drls.

OR, you could just ground the switch (like i did in my 96) and when you switch them on, the drls will light up even when the car's off and the parking brake is engaged. this will also work with the low-beams on...


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Old 03-29-2007, 10:58 AM   #8
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Happy Re: "drl conversion"

Or you can defeat the DRL by adding a 2" jumper wire. It was one of the very first mods I did to my SC2 when I bought it recently.

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Old 03-29-2007, 02:16 PM   #9
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYguy View Post
Or you can defeat the DRL by adding a 2" jumper wire. It was one of the very first mods I did to my SC2 when I bought it recently.
How do you do that? I don't want the DRL's at all.

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Old 03-29-2007, 03:17 PM   #10
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Thumbs Up Re: "drl conversion"

Let me take a photograph or two tonight and I'll post them for you. It is really simple and totally reversible, but you will need a soldering iron.

With a slightly different method you could make a jumper out of brass strip from a hobby store to do the same thing, but even then I think I would "tin" the ends of the strip.

I preferred to do the wire approach (soldering iron required) because then the connection is corrosion resistant and I happened to have a roll of wire handy.

If I had some flat terminals handy, I might have done it that way, too. The way I did it cost me basically nothing though.

Regardless, the idea is to safely bypass the DRL relay in the under-hood fuse panel. I have seen posts where people talked about just bending pins on the relay, and that's OK, but personally I prefer not to make changes to components like that if I can help it. This way I can yank the wire out and put the relay back in whenever it suits me (like NEVER , but hey, I could change my mind ).

I'll post the photos tonight or early tomorrow.

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Old 03-29-2007, 11:24 PM   #11
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Devil Re: "drl conversion"

Hello again.

I have attached photos and a section of the schematic.

Now, be warned- this is for a 1997-1999.

Your car/results may vary. May cause headache, nosebleed, blurred vision, hair loss, dry skin, split fingernails, psoriasis, constipation, excessive sweating, rotten gas mileage, excessive horsepower, loss of confidence, excessive nose hair growth, peeling paint, and intermittent flatulence, so please proceed with caution and at your own risk, I will not be held responsible.

Seriously, test first, jumper second.

The photos show the following-
1)the DRL relay position on my car
2)the jumper location as installed
3)the current path for DRL ON with the relay in place and ignition on
4)the current path for DRL OFF or defeated
5)the pinouts of the relay and the corresponding positions on the fuse block

Try the following-

1) locate your DRL relay (in the underhood fuse block on most Saturns)
2) remove it by wiggling gently and pulling
3) carefully note the normally CLOSED contact numbers (30 and 87a on mine)
4) locate which socket holes correspond to these pins on the fuse block
5) fabricate a wire jumper (10 gauge!!!) with flattened and tinned ends, or use some .125 wide and .032 thick brass strip.
6) insert the jumper between the holes that correspond to the CLOSED relay contacts, NOT either of the coil connections (if in doubt, use an ohm meter to verify the relay contacts)!!!
7) test and enjoy your new lack of bureaucratic lunacy

Remember- you MUST find the proper contacts. If you have a relay that looks like mine, it will be contact numbers 30 and 87a. If not, you will have to determine the appropriate ones yourself.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DRLrelayInPlace.jpg (42.3 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg JumperInPlace.jpg (55.3 KB, 117 views)
File Type: jpg DRLon.jpg (65.8 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg DRLoff.jpg (65.6 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg Pinouts.jpg (47.4 KB, 110 views)

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Old 03-30-2007, 03:40 AM   #12
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

So if you jump from 30 to 87a with no relay it will disable them?

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Old 03-30-2007, 10:28 PM   #13
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Thumbs Up Re: "drl conversion"

If you have a relay like the one pictured, yes jumpering the fuse block (the relay socket connections) from 30 to 87a will disable the DRL system.

Test first to be certain that you have the right relay (just in case !!) by simply removing the relay and turning on your HIGH beams. If you do have the right relay, one of the high beams will not work. Put the relay back in and it will work again.

The DRLs work by turning the relay ON when the ignition is on with the lights turned off. The relay turns on and places the two high beam filaments in series between the battery and ground. The shop manuals and owner's manuals state that this runs the two lights at "half brightness". In fact it runs them at 1/4 power with some lowered level of brightness (basic Ohm's law), but that is splitting hairs.

Now when you turn the headlights on (in high or low beam settings), the relay turns OFF and the high beam filaments are put into parallel ("night condition") and both are connected from the battery to the high beam switch.

If you are in low beam setting, they are not gounded and don't light but the low beams of course, are grounded and do light.

If you are in high beam setting, the switch end of BOTH high beam filaments are grounded through the switch and they both light up at full brightness.

By the way, I didn't show the photo of it, but the idea of the soldered and flattened jumper is to imitate the two pins of the relay going into the fuse panel socket. The total length of the wire is about 2" with about 1/2" stripped, tinned and flattened at each end. Use a small hammer to flatten the ends. Trim them as necessary to make the tinned ends about 1/8" in width and about 1/32" in thickness.

Have fun, I hope I helped.

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Old 03-30-2007, 11:02 PM   #14
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Wrench Re: "drl conversion"

instead of using a jumper wire you can remove the DRL relay, bend pin 86 then put the relay back in the socket. It's less obvious when you look in the fuse box than having a fat red wire stuck in there

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Old 03-31-2007, 01:35 AM   #15
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Cool Re: "drl conversion"

Exactly right, I totally agree. In fact I mentioned it in an earlier post.

It is definitely simpler, but personally (IMHO) I prefer not to do that because I might want to restore the function some time (not likely, but you never know). Even bending the pin over once and back again would weaken it. Twice would probably break it off. I'd rather have the part in working condition just in case. Also, it might be useful for something else.

In fact, I didn't show a photo, but I store the relay inside the fuse panel cover under a block of soft foam. Yes, I know, borderline silly, but that way I can find it if I ever need it.

Besides, who looks inside the fusebox cover anyway?

To anyone who is looking at this message thread, eRic02sc2 's suggestion is 100% OK and even simpler than mine. I am just a tinkerer at heart....

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Old 04-01-2007, 01:48 AM   #16
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

Pick up a relay at the jy, and bend the pin on that one. Then you can just swap out the relays.

...
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Old 04-01-2007, 01:57 AM   #17
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Thumbs Up Re: "drl conversion"

Awwww, actually it was about 7pm on Christmas eve as I recall. The wire was handy and it took about 5 minutes to do, but your suggestion would have worked, too.... I don't know who has Saturns for scavenging around here. Seems like everyone here drives Hondas or Toyotas.

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Old 04-01-2007, 02:00 AM   #18
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

I'm gonna bend the pin, then pick up a few relays when they come along at the jy. I'll do that tomorrow when I go to replace my shredded belt.

...
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Old 04-01-2007, 01:49 PM   #19
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

ya, i just bent the pin on mine. took 30 sec and it works great. well i mean it dosent work, the drls that is. the idea works.

you know what i mean

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Old 04-01-2007, 03:02 PM   #20
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Default Re: "drl conversion"

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYguy View Post
Besides, who looks inside the fusebox cover anyway?

To anyone who is looking at this message thread, eRic02sc2 's suggestion is 100% OK and even simpler than mine. I am just a tinkerer at heart....
Saturn service techs look in the fuse box when they change the oil and have to reset the "change oil soon" light

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