SaturnFans.com
what's new (beta) - classifieds - forums - photos


Go Back   SaturnFans.com Forums > Models > Saturn L-Series > L-Series Tech
Register FAQ Members List Groups Calendar Chat Room Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-28-2010, 02:00 AM   #1
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

I bought a 2000 L3000 SW2 wagon with the 3.0 V6 engine. Looks great and in excellent shape, especially for a 2000. Only has 98000 miles. The problem(s) are that it will not accelerate, cannot get over around 2000ish RPM's. Runs really rough, backfires, misfires on various cylinders when attempting to accelerate (per my Tech 2 scanner). It had a couple various codes when I got it (around 2 weeks ago), but I cleared them and no codes have come back. I saw cylinder 3 misfiring regularly so I pulled that coil/ignition module off for inspection of cylinder 3. This was no easy task and some things I found out were that someone else had removed some of the upper engine before me (probably looking for the same problem)...several of the small inverted torx bolts were stripped or missing. The first thing I found was that it had those Bosch 3-electrode plugs in it. They did not look like it was running rich or lean but I replaced them with the factory AC Delco's....made no difference. I ran a compression test on the 1,3,5 bank and all had approx. 190ish PSI so thats okay. What I think I am seeing is a lean condition. I have been in GM dealership service departments since 1982, but never Saturn which, to me, is a whole nother ballgame. The llamba readings from the front 2 O2 sensors seem to go over 2000 often and the rear O2's settle around the 200MV or less area consistently. I have tried another MAF sensor and that made no difference. Fuel pressure running is always about 43PSI. It idles just fine, just cant accelerate. I notice the tachometer jumps around a lot while it is not running right/straining to get RPM's (makes me think ignition-type problem but it doesn't feel like ignition...feels like starving for fuel). I would think that if it were a vacuum leak issue, the idle would be high and for it to run as bad as it does when trying to accelerate, it would have to have a massive vacuum leak (dont think it does). Wondering what a timing belt that was not correct would run like? I'm not condemming the timing belt because I don't know what one would run like if the belt had jumped teeth or something similiar.

Hoping some of you Saturn tech's might have seen this before and can lead me in the right direction. I see lots of threads here describing similar complaints but I thought I would add what my GM experience tells me to this thread. Any help would certainly be appreciated and if you have any issues with ANY other GM vehicles, just ask and I have probably had experience with it and can help or can find out for sure.

Thanks in Advance.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that I read about Saturn's "Limp Home" modes and while one of them sounds like the car might be in limp home mode, the Tech 2 tells me that all the limp home readings are in the right state. Also, I have not seen a Reduced Engine Power message.

EDIT X 2: I have also read all the bulletins related with this and have pretty much ruled out any of those being related with my issue. Of course, some of you guys that work on them every day might know different. That's kind of what I am looking for here, daily experience with the 3.0. We specialize at my dealership and I am with performance, electrical, and AC (Just not Saturn performance LOL).

Last edited by Jetsa; 12-28-2010 at 02:07 AM..

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
SaturnFans.com Sponsored Links
Old 12-28-2010, 09:03 AM   #2
Partymmudasti
Advanced Member
Partymmudasti is on a distinguished road
 
Partymmudasti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 669

2003 VUE 3.0L
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Given the information you have collected in your posting, have you ruled out the catalytic converter? If damaged/plugged, it will restrict power and cause all kinds of problems, similar to what you're experiencing.

If the timing jumped, it would definitely run the same way you are describing too. I would check the condition of the timing belt, and the timing itself ASAP because if it did jump already, theres nothing saying it wont jump again and cause big damage this time (The 3.0l is an interference design). Hope this helps!

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Partymmudasti's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Partymmudasti reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Partymmudasti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 11:07 AM   #3
KLS1P
Member
KLS1P is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: I80 and Rt 43
Posts: 262

2000 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
2004 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Since the car idles fine, the belt is probably not an issue. I agree with above about the cat conv. Seperate the exhaust before the cat, leaving all sensors connected and see if you can rev to the limiter.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to KLS1P's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help KLS1P reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
KLS1P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 11:13 AM   #4
KLS1P
Member
KLS1P is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: I80 and Rt 43
Posts: 262

2000 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
2004 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Since the car idles fine, the belt is probably not an issue. I agree with above about the cat conv. Seperate the exhaust before the cats, leaving all sensors connected and see if you can rev to the limiter.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to KLS1P's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help KLS1P reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
KLS1P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 12:16 PM   #5
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

See thats what I need, you guys to keep me honest. Also forgot.....when I first got the car it was doing this and the problem sounded like an exhaust issue, so I had the rear convertor cut so I could see the inside and it looked fine. Then I dropped both mini-convertors via the Y-pipe and started it. It does the same thing with the exhaust removed.

Keep em coming...please.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 12:48 PM   #6
KLS1P
Member
KLS1P is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: I80 and Rt 43
Posts: 262

2000 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
2004 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

If the tech II clears your ignition operation, you may still want to swap out the ignition module and / or the 2 coil packs. Otherwise focus on fuel delivery; gauge the injector fuel rail from idle on up. Try the Tech II with the Caddy Catera setup.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to KLS1P's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help KLS1P reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
KLS1P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2010, 06:02 PM   #7
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Well, the fuel pressure remains constant even when it is starting to miss/run rough (except for the natural fuel pressure regulator action of course). Not quite sure I am following you on the "tech 2 clearing the ignition operation". And when you talk about the ignition module, I thought that this Saturn had 2 coil pack assemblies, one per side, which was also the ignition module? Lastly, if I can get the Tech 2 to scan it as if it were a Catera, are my readings going to be any different or look different?

Because of the electronic throttle, I am unable to raise the idle up (by myself) and spray some carb cleaner into the snorkel to see if that would lower or raise the engine performance. I think this would tell me if it were actually running lean or not. According to the O2 readings I see, it looks like it is running lean, acts like it is running lean (will backfire when trying to get the RPM's up and kind of like starves for fuel).

The service manual way of getting the front timing cover off looks like a nightmare and I would hate to go through that whole procedure just to look and find out there was no problem, but I guess I am in the ruling-out-possibilities mode now. Do any of you Saturn guys know do I need to remove the whole timing cover just to see if timing had jumped, or is it possible to just remove say an upper piece that would allow me to check the marks? Speaking of the marks, I read where the service manual says that the marks should line up with the slots at the top "JUST FOR INSTALLATION PURPOSES". Does this mean that since the belt has been on for a while now, the marks lining up would not be a good indicator of if the belt had moved?

Thanks Again

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 02:07 AM   #8
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Newest info I have.....Learned that the #1 O2 sensor readings will go to over 3.000 when I hold the throttle up, while the #2 O2 sensors both read down around 50MV at this same time. At idle, everything reads correct...1.000 for #1's and around 450MV for both #2's. Learned that while the fuel pressure is steady at 43PSI or thereabouts, it never changes, even on acceleration...there is no vacuum coming from the throttle body vacuum port to the fuel pressure regulator, at idle or at the highest I can get the RPM's which I also learned is now around 4000RPM's (but it sure doesnt like to run at 4000 RPM's). So about the vacuum to the regulator, I hooked up a hand-held vacuum pump to the regulator and added vacuum while I had the throttle down and the car was running terribly as usual. The added vacuum dropped the fuel pressure down towards 30ish PSI but there is absolutely no difference with vacuum to the regulator or with no vacuum...it runs that bad. I would assume the vacuum to the regulator should be ported as to not hold the regulator open at idle where it should not be, but I never saw any vacuum on the hand-held pump nor have I ever saw the fuel pressure drop while snapping the throttle. Also noticed that while holding the throttle open trying to make it accelerate, all 6 cylinders will randomly have spark knock retard. The highest retard I saw was 9% and it was on most of the cylinders. As far as misfires, I saw a few but not many counts and on various cylinders (I think this is an effect, not a cause). One last thing that I can remember....when I raise the idle (by the way, it does this in park and neutral, dont even have to power-brake it in gear for this to happen), the slowing/hesitating/missing/generally-running-rough-no-power-condition seems to be real like timed (kind of like the throttle rev limiter at that point where it should limit the throttle).....up and down while running badly the whole time. Drop the throttle to idle and all is well.

So what do we got? No codes, good fuel pressure, idles good, not an exhaust issue (have completely disconnected the exhaust), not a misfire problem but it does have random misfires due to, very lean O2 readings from front and back O2's, no major vacuum leaks that I have found (used most of a can of carb spray so far looking for leaks to perk up the idle, or lower it and have found none), not the MAF sensor (have tried another), new plugs, compression good, 4 gallons of gas in it.

I'm getting stumped and I don't ever remember one I could not fix. Is it the timing belt???

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 02:32 AM   #9
MoparNut
Advanced Member
MoparNut will become famous soon enough
 
MoparNut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 587
 
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Sure sounds like it could be timing-only takes 5-10 minutes to get the covers off, but you need the SPX 3.0l V6 timing belt tool kit (or equivalent)gauge to properly check it.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to MoparNut's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help MoparNut reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
MoparNut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 05:19 AM   #10
bill buttermore
Member
bill buttermore will become famous soon enough
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 55

2000 L-Series 3.0L Wagon
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

The timing belt would be my guess, too.

I bought a 2000 LW2 with the same engine and 105,000 miles with similar symptoms. I was able to drive it home about 30 miles. It would idle fine, but accelerate only slowly and with hardly any power. When I got it home, I measured compression and found all three cylinders on the front bank were at about 30 psi while the rear bank gave normal readings. Removed the front cover and found the timing belt had slipped on the front intake cam. My belt slipped because the bearing in the tensioner assembly failed causing the belt to lose tension. The front of the engine under the cover was coated with rubber shavings from the belt. I figure I was really lucky it hadn't slipped far enough for any valves to kiss the pistons.

If you do find the belt to be your problem, RockAuto sells a really nice timing set. All new pulleys and tensioner - German made parts. I used the carriage bolt, washer, rubber washer method described on this forum to hold the cams steady during installation. Worked swell. The only special tool I had to buy was the big E-Torx for the crank bolt. Now it runs great.

Last edited by bill buttermore; 12-29-2010 at 05:25 AM..

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to bill buttermore's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help bill buttermore reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 11:21 AM   #11
fdryer
Super Member
fdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond repute
 
fdryer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NYC
Posts: 43,275
 

2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Even though we have drive-by-wire systems, it doesn't mean we can't open the throttle. There are a few things that are accomplished by simply having someone turning the ignition key ON and pressing the pedal; remove the intake air tubing and maf sensor to expose the throttle body so you can see the throttle plate and reconnect the maf sensor wiring but lay the maf sensor off to the side. Having the maf sensor electrically connected and the intake air tubing off allows you to see how the throttle plate operates. Have someone press the gas pedal as you watch the throttle plate open; the pedal is electronically communicating to the ecm to ask it to move the throttle plate and the ecm will command the throttle plate to open and close. Master/slave, pedal/throttle.

If you can see smooth throttle movement as the pedal is pressed smoothly and in synch then the throttle actuator (TAC), ecm, and accelerator pedal (APP) are in good working order.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to fdryer's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help fdryer reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
fdryer is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 08:02 PM   #12
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Okay I guess I will be removing the front timing cover. Can anyone tell me how I could possibly tell if the timing had jumped once I am able to view the entire belt area? I undertand the marks are there for the original installation of the belt only, but what do I use to judge if I have a belt-jumped issue, other than something obvious that would stare me in the face?

Thanks

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 08:06 PM   #13
MoparNut
Advanced Member
MoparNut will become famous soon enough
 
MoparNut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 587
 
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Well, you could purchase the OTC version of the special tool (much cheaper than the SPX version):
http://www.spx.usatoolwarehouse.com/.../OTC-6687.html

Worth the investment.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to MoparNut's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help MoparNut reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
MoparNut is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2010, 11:37 PM   #14
bill buttermore
Member
bill buttermore will become famous soon enough
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 55

2000 L-Series 3.0L Wagon
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetsa View Post
Okay I guess I will be removing the front timing cover. Can anyone tell me how I could possibly tell if the timing had jumped once I am able to view the entire belt area? I undertand the marks are there for the original installation of the belt only, but what do I use to judge if I have a belt-jumped issue, other than something obvious that would stare me in the face?

Thanks
It will be easy to determine. There are permanent marks other than those painted on the surface of a new belt for initial installation. You will see timing marks on the cam sprockets that align with notches in the cam cover and a notch on the crank that aligns with a mark on the engine casting. With the cover off, turn the crank until the crank timing marks line up (6:00 O'Clock position). Then observe whether the four timing marks on the cam sprockets line up with the notches in the back of the cam cover. Note that you use different marks on the cam sprockets depending on whether they are installed on the rear bank (1 & 2) or the front bank (3 & 4) You may have to clean off the dust to see, but there are numbers stamped on the sprockets so you will know which sprocket mark applies where. Just remember that the cams are numbered 1-4, left (rear) to right (front) as you stand on the passenger side looking at them. Of course, you may have to turn the crank through two revolutions to get the marks to line up, as the crank turns twice for every single revolution of the cams.

Last edited by bill buttermore; 12-29-2010 at 11:47 PM..

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to bill buttermore's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help bill buttermore reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 12:03 AM   #15
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Okay so I got antsy tonight and went and pulled the timing cover. Didnt see anything obviously wrong except on the left (as you look at it from the passenger fender) idler pulley had some wettish/rusty looking residue towards the inside of it, near the bolt. So what I did was turn the crank pulley until the top (#3) cam pulley lined up with the notch. Now this was a little confusing because on each of the cam pulleys, there are 2 marks, one is rather obviously a major mark and the other not so major. Regardless, with the #3 cam gear lined up, here is what I see....

#1 cam gear is dead-on mark, #2 gear is almost 90 degrees off (say the notch is at 1 O'clock, the gear is around 3 O'clock), #3 of course is right on, and #4 gear is off by some (say the notch in the rear timing cover is around 1 O'clock, the gear is around 11:00). Now to the crackshaft gear.....I did not see nor look for a notch at 6 O'clock because I saw one around 2 O'clock and the one on the crankshaft lined up perfectly with that one after I aligned the #3 gear with the notch.

Sooooo, what does this tell you guys?

Thanks Again and sorry to be a pest. I do performance work and this falls in the heavy line area to me.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 12:07 AM   #16
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Just re-read your reply Bill.

"Note that you use different marks on the cam sprockets depending on whether they are installed on the rear bank (1 & 2) or the front bank (3 & 4) You may have to clean off the dust to see, but there are numbers stamped on the sprockets so you will know which sprocket mark applies where. "

What does this mean? Does this mean that each cam sprocket is not supposed to be lined up directly with the notches in the rear cover with the crankshaft mark lined up? What exactly are the numbers stamped in the sprockets for?

Thanks

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 12:27 AM   #17
bill buttermore
Member
bill buttermore will become famous soon enough
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 55

2000 L-Series 3.0L Wagon
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetsa View Post
Just re-read your reply Bill.

"Note that you use different marks on the cam sprockets depending on whether they are installed on the rear bank (1 & 2) or the front bank (3 & 4) You may have to clean off the dust to see, but there are numbers stamped on the sprockets so you will know which sprocket mark applies where. "

What does this mean? Does this mean that each cam sprocket is not supposed to be lined up directly with the notches in the rear cover with the crankshaft mark lined up? What exactly are the numbers stamped in the sprockets for?

Thanks
I am sorry that I cannot post or even link to the clear photos that I have, but this board will not allow it until I have made 15 posts. (?!) I'll try to a better job of explaining. Each cam sprocket used on the rear bank, for cams 1 and 2, has two marks stamped into its edges. There is also a number 1 and a number 2 stamped on each sprocket near each mark. The #1 and #2 cam sprocket marks are approximately 180 degrees apart. The mark on the cam sprocket closest to the number 1 stamped into the cam sprocket is meant to align with the notch in the cam cover behind cam #1, the leftmost cam. The next cam sprocket mark (for cam #2) should have a number 2 stamped near the mark on the sprocket that is meant to align with cam #2. Likewise, for the front bank, each cam sprocket is stamped with two numbers- 3 and 4; these are very close together, but easily distinguished. The cam sprocket mark is determined by the closest stamped number to it. You will see that mark 3 is to the left of mark 4 for the front cams.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to bill buttermore's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help bill buttermore reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 12:35 AM   #18
bill buttermore
Member
bill buttermore will become famous soon enough
 
bill buttermore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 55

2000 L-Series 3.0L Wagon
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

When the belt is properly installed and adjusted, the crank mark will be aligned near bottom dead center of the crank hub, and there will be be a stamped mark on each of the four cam sprockets aligned with a notch behind it on the cam cover. A close examination of each cam sprocket will find the numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4, stamped close to each aligned mark for cams 1, 2, 3, and 4. Those numbers must correspond to the appropriate cam.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to bill buttermore's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help bill buttermore reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 12:41 AM   #19
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Okay Bill, easily understood. Now, getting to my description of what I saw in the post above yours.....without knowing which number is where (in my description), are we unable to assume anything? Couple of things strike me...first, seeing that 2 of my sprockets have alignment marks that actually line up with the marks on the rear cover, the other 2 are far from being 180 degrees off (one is around 2 O'clock and the other around 11 O'clock). Secondly, if there is a mark for the crankshaft at 6 O'clock (there is definately one at around 2 O'clock) , that will throw off even the 2 cam sprockets that I have lined up now. Do I need to be rotating the crankshaft more times? And lastly (at least all I can think of at the moment), I just bought the car and this belt looks fairly fresh to me...the GM numbers and logo are very easily readable, the space between the teeth of the belt have absolutley no wear marks, and the edges aren't even frayed. Keep in mind how it runs now is how it ran when I bought it. Wondering if someone attempted the belt and got things out of kilter. But back to the original post of mine....the O2 sensors look to read extremely lean to me...all 4 of them. To me, this does not seem like a timing chain issue but what do I know. I guess since I have the timing cover off, I need to complete the check...so first things first. Back to the marks....


Thanks

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2010, 12:42 AM   #20
Jetsa
Member
Jetsa is on a distinguished road
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 59
Default Re: Noob Here to Saturn but not to GM-L3000 Question/Help Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore View Post
When the belt is properly installed and adjusted, the crank mark will be aligned near bottom dead center of the crank hub, and there will be be a stamped mark on each of the four cam sprockets aligned with a notch behind it on the cam cover. A close examination of each cam sprocket will find the numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4, stamped close to each aligned mark for cams 1, 2, 3, and 4. Those numbers must correspond to the appropriate cam.
Gotcha on this part. Keep reading....

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Jetsa's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Jetsa reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Jetsa is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Saturn Noob Overheating Engine Fan Question Rabidmonkey1 S-Series Tech 14 01-27-2010 04:39 AM
Noob question mrpicky S-Series General 2 04-26-2009 01:13 AM
Saturn Noob MPG Question. nomeite S-Series General 19 04-04-2008 12:20 PM
noob here with a vin question hrtatack1 S-Series Tech 5 03-31-2008 11:38 AM
noob question: wheelcovers (again) CKyAlliance07 S-Series Mods 9 03-30-2006 03:40 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:32 PM.

Advanced Forum Search | Advanced Photo Search


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SaturnFans.com. The Saturn Enthusiasts Site.