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Old 02-24-2008, 06:42 PM   #1
ernesto rex
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Default I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Although there is a considerable amount of information in this forum on how to replace the timing belt, I though I would add some things that I discovered during my project.

In general, the car hasnít been difficult to work on. I have yet to encounter a bolt or fastener that I couldnít get to. It is a bit time consuming sometimes because you have to remove layers of engine to get to where you need to be.

I used the zip tie method to keep my cam shafts in place once the belt was removed. My number four cam shaft retarded just a bit after the belt was taken off, but a ratchet and a male torx bit was all that was needed to engage the bolt that holds the cam gear on the shaft to rotate it the 2 or 3 millimeters necessary to get it lined up again.

There are a whole lot of alignment marks on this engine that were very helpful in ensuring that things where properly positioned. The cam gears have more than one mark though, so I used a paint pen to indicate the one that was aligned with the notch on the back of the timing belt cover before removing the belt. Although I didnít realize it at the time, there is a mark on the harmonic balancer that aligns with a mark on the back of the timing belt cover. I had used the paint pen to mark the balancer and crankshaft before removal so I could assemble it in exactly the same way. After removal of the balancer I noticed that the crankshaft also had an alignment mark that pointed straight down. I guess the point Iím trying to make is that this engine has so many alignment marks that you will have no problem keeping stuff where it is supposed to be during the project.

There is a male torx bolt on the crankshaft. I donít know what size it is, but is definitely bigger than an E18. A 5/8ths inch socket or combination wrench worked just fine for rotating the crank shaft.

Speaking of SAE tools, I needed the 5/8ths socket to remove the engine mount bolts and a Ĺ inch combination wrench or socket to loosen the retaining nuts on the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley. Everything else that I can remember was metric.

Taking digital pictures of everything that was alignment critical before removing the belt was a huge help in making sure that I put everything back where it needed to be.

CrewCab had mentioned that the only pulley they loosen when replacing a timing belt was the tensioner, located to the left of the water pump. His hands must be stronger than mine, because I couldnít get the belt over the number 3 and 4 cam gears without loosening the idler pulley located above the water pump. Make sure you have a 30mm wrench to hold that idler pulley nut in place while you re-torque the retainer. Oh, donít be stupid like me and try to pry the belt over the tensioner pulley after everything else was positioned. There is two hours of my life Iíll never get back. The only way, IMHO, is to have the belt on the idlers and tensioner 1st, then use the available slack to move it on to the last two cam gears. I recommend placing it on the number 3 and 4 cam gears last.

I used the roadside car jack, a piece of heavy plywood and a combination wrench to support the engine while the mounts were off. I have pictures posted showing how I did it if you would like to check it out. I did notice that there was some oil weeping down that side of the oil pan so I may have crushed the gasket on that side. Iíll keep an eye out for an oil leak over the next few weeks.

I changed the water pump while I was down there. The old belt got a good coolant bath when the old water pump came off.

Iíd like to give a big thanks to Ssicarman, beensmoked, Gerry Proctor, aaront, fdryer and lostwages_ls2 for their posts over the years on timing belts and water pump replacement. The info they provided was the only way I was able to tackle this job without killing my engine. Thanks to Charlie, of course, for the wonderful website.

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Old 02-24-2008, 07:44 PM   #2
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

You had me at "zip tie method to keep my cam shafts in place"!

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Old 02-26-2008, 12:26 AM   #3
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

I almost made it through mine. I had a saturn tech that I know come over after work and do just the belt - 40 dollars well spent in my mind. Took him about 10 minutes to get everything lined up right. But you're right...getting to the belt isn't particularly difficult, just lots of layers to plow through.

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Old 10-21-2010, 08:15 PM   #4
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Is there a how to on doing the timing belt without the tool kit?

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Old 10-22-2010, 08:50 AM   #5
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

There are several threads about changing the timing belt showing the different methods that folks here have come up with to hold the gears in place while changing the belt. I did mine just before I found this site and did it without any holding fixtures of any kind, you can do it that way but it is a beach. Use the search feature you should be able to find them.

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Old 03-15-2011, 12:06 AM   #6
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Dizzy Help

I have a 2001 L300 I'm working on. I have not removed the timing belt yet, I changed the water pump. Car was running fine before I started the work, the water pump was just leaking (BAD). The blet is shot so I decided to change it , None of the timing marks line up. Looks like the belt has slipped, I can not figure out how to set the cams. There are two marks on each gear. Do I set the crank at 60 btdc, remove the belt and set the cams by hand? Then I do not know which of the duel marks on the cam gears, I am starting to wish I did not help out on this one. Next stupid question is how do I confirm my cams are set right?

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Old 03-15-2011, 12:44 AM   #7
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Copied this from an earlier thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore View Post
Here is what things should look like when everything is lined up. First, the crank marks:



Cams 1 & 2. Note numbers "1" and "2" on cam sprockets.



Cams 3 & 4. Note numbers "3" and "4" on cam sprockets.



Tensioner adjustment mark:



New belt, water pump, idler pulleys, and tensioner assembly from RockAuto:

And this from a little later in the same thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore View Post

You will find two stamped marks on the perimeter of each cam sprocket, near the timing belt. Use the cam sprocket timing mark for cams 1, 2, and 3 that is nearest to the corresponding stamped number on the face of the sprocket. For cam number 4, use the mark that is to the right of the stamped number 4.
And finally, this, from another thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore View Post
For each set of cams, the carriage bolt method involves slipping a carriage bolt up between the two cam sprockets as far as it will go with the head of the bolt towards the engine and the bolt threads extending out beyond the face of the cam sprockets. Be careful that the square shank under the head of the carriage bolt is fit up between the sprockets and does NOT bear against the inside faces of the sprockets. You want only the flat surface under the head of the bolt (seen in the image below with concentric grooves) to bear on the inside faces of the sprockets. I bought regular 5/16" flat washers, wide (1-5/8") flat fender washers, and 1-1/2" flat rubber washers. The bolts I used were 5/16" diameter, 2" in length. The fender washer distributes the load evenly on the rubber washer. The rubber washer bears against the face of the sprockets to provide "bite" and minimize the tendency to slip.

In the image below, you can see the marks left on the rubber washer by the cam sprockets when it was installed. You just loosely assemble the clamp, place it between the sprockets, and tighten the nut to immobilize the cam sprockets as needed during installation of the new belt. Don't use more force than needed to immobilize the sprockets.

I bought an E-20 torx to turn the crank from NAPA for about $12. I also used a homemade wedge cut from a nylon cutting board to snug the belt against the crank. Those and the carriage bolts were the only "special tools" needed.

Last edited by bill buttermore; 03-15-2011 at 12:59 AM..

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Old 03-15-2011, 09:20 AM   #8
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

I would die to pay someone 40 to change the timing belt on my car. I will not pay someone 1800 for this thing!

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Old 03-15-2011, 11:22 PM   #9
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Ok Bill I see the marks, but none of mine line up. They are all close though....would I just pull the belt and set the marks on my cams and lock them in place? If I do , would I set the crank on the mark or at the 60 btdc? Im a little confused about this???

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Old 03-15-2011, 11:29 PM   #10
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

I also have a hard time finding the posts, If you have a simple answer for me you can contact me by email @ bill.alexander@live.com . I am a Service Manager at a very busy shop, but have not worked on cars in 21 years on a regular basis, this engine is new to me, and I hate asking for help, but time to swallow my pride and get it over. I cant save my face and my ass at the same time.

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Old 03-16-2011, 12:11 AM   #11
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Note that in my pictures above, I have removed the crank pulley. With the pulley removed, you will see the marks as above. The timing mark in the hub of the crankshaft is at 6:00 o'clock and in line with the notch on the bottom of the front cover. Note also that the two idler pulleys are adjustable. They adjust by turning the big nut, which is set on an eccentric, and lock in place with a hex key. You can adjust these and the tensioner pulley to give you the maximum amount of slack in the belt if the belt must be moved to adjust the marks as needed. You can use the carriage bolts as described to keep the 1-2 and 3-4 cam sets locked together to help while setting the belt in place. When you have the marks as close as you can get to correct, you can use the idler pulley adjustments to fine tune the belt. I adjusted the idler between the crank and the 3-4 cams so that those marks were perfect. Then, adjusted the idler between the cams to bring the 1-2 cams into alignment with the others. Last, adjusted the tensioner so that it pointed to the mark shown after rotating the belt two full revolutions. I removed the plugs to make it easier to rotate the engine and used an E-20 torx to turn the engine with the crank bolt.

Last edited by bill buttermore; 03-16-2011 at 12:20 AM..

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Old 05-23-2011, 05:45 PM   #12
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Great thread, was able to do my timing belt and water pump in under 2 hours.

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Old 05-23-2011, 10:27 PM   #13
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Quote:
Originally Posted by conversekidz View Post
Great thread, was able to do my timing belt and water pump in under 2 hours.
WHAT?!?!?

Care to share some tips so that the rest of us can tackle this in something as astonishing, like 2 hours?!?

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Old 05-28-2011, 01:29 AM   #14
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Tools needed.

THE V6 LOCKING KIT or Non-tool method
Socket set with extension bar.
Adaptors to accomodate the fact that you will need to use 3/8" bits on 1/2" and vice versa for torque setting.
Torx Sockets, Set comprising E10 - E16 for General use, E20 to turn the crank.
Torx bit TX50 (only need this if you need to manually move the cams i.e the old belt had slipped)
Torque Wrench
30mm wrench for the pullys.
13mm wrench and Allen ket to set the tension.
15mm wrench for the AUX belt tensioner.
Rubber mallet to persuade the waper pump to come off.
Screwdrivers
12 pack of beer and the phone number to the local pizza place to keep your buddy interested in helping you. (priceless)

Hope this may inspire someone to give it a go!

Here is a few links I found with great instructions. Remember the Saab 9-5 shares the same L81 GM 3.0L DOHC engine. This first link should be all you need to get the job done. Also go to your local library and see if they have the Haynes manual for the car, they should also have AllData and if your lucky you can access the AllData from home with library card.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbend...ns___how_to___

http://www.v6calibra.net/docs/Sealy%...ol%20vs130.pdf

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=156414

http://www.autowebrepair.com/forum/u...d=675&pid=2721

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=235444781836

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPX-OTC-Tools-GM...85648022247468

http://www.haynes.com/files/product/271.87020sp.pdf

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Old 06-18-2011, 10:48 PM   #15
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

The most important part of timing belt replacement that isnt really mentioned here!!!! After belt is installed and on marks, connect the maf tube to the intake and start engine to view marks on tensonier are in line. If marks are not hovering together then you need to adjust idlers or tensonier or both until you get it just perfect. Do not run engine longer then necessary

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Old 11-09-2011, 10:22 PM   #16
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Devil Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

I was thinking of trying this myself until this last post about a Maf tube and lineing up marks while running. None of that made any sense to me. Can anyone shed some light?

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Old 11-10-2011, 05:52 PM   #17
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Never start the engine until you have turned it by hand at least 3 complete revolutions, if you happen to have the timing off it is much better that the valve hits the piston with only hand power. My first belt change I was in the dark on many things, the manual was not clear on some things, I got timing off, valve piston contact, back up start timing over, got belt and proper gear marks lined up, all was well. I never started until everything was closed up, I had checked my timing marks while turning by hand and knew they were right.

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Old 11-10-2011, 10:36 PM   #18
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

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Never start the engine until you have turned it by hand at least 3 complete revolutions
Two revolutions of the crank or 4 or 6 or 8 ETC.

Two turns get the cams back to where they should be so that you can check the tming marks. Three turns gets you no where as the timing marks will not be lined up.

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Old 11-11-2011, 08:14 AM   #19
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssicarman View Post
Two revolutions of the crank or 4 or 6 or 8 ETC.

Two turns get the cams back to where they should be so that you can check the tming marks. Three turns gets you no where as the timing marks will not be lined up.
Three complete revolutions, all 6 cylinders, by what you are saying 6 turns of the crankshaft.

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Old 11-11-2011, 12:32 PM   #20
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Default Re: I Changed The Timing Belt On My 3.0 V6 And Lived To Tell About It.

Timing belts are replaced with the #1 cylinder on top dead center. This is where the timing marks for the crank and cams line up.
Once the belt is on and the tensioner(s) are set up you turn the engine over by hand so that the crank makes two complete revolutions. This gives the camshafts one complete revolution. The timing marks should now line up if everything was set up properly.
Doesn't matter how many cylinders the engine has. Belt or chain. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12 or more cylinders. Any four stroke engine will be the same, two revolutions of the crank gets you back to where you started from.

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