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Old 05-01-2018, 10:42 PM   #61
Waiex191
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1999 SL2
1998 SC2
Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

The window tint remover did not work at all. I also tried naptha, acetone, and brake fluid. No joy. I am going to get a good scraper and go to town. I'll lose the window heat but at least I'll be able to see most of the time. Thanks for the YouTube link Mark, I'll check it out.

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Old 05-01-2018, 10:59 PM   #62
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Windex will work if you are patient.

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Old 05-01-2018, 11:38 PM   #63
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Ok one more link if you have to recharge your AC system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annota...&v=Pdq8JAlct6s

There are many more but this one is pretty straight forward.

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Old 05-02-2018, 09:30 AM   #64
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

It almost seems like spray on tint, or it is the adhesive from the film we pulled off.

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Old 05-02-2018, 09:35 AM   #65
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

edit: just saw your post - you already pulled the tint off and are dealing with residual glue?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Windex will work if you are patient.
+1, this is from someone who retired from the window business, from another forum.

Quote:
Solar films are polyesters and water soluble so over time the ammonia water mix soaks through the film and loosens the adhesive. The longer the film was on the longer the removal time as the adhesive loses elastomers and hardens.
He recommended 20% ammonia, 80% water.

Windex is 5~10% ammonia. Probably safer at this concentration since you want to protect the heating elements. You'll want to lay down a plastic bag or towels to catch any overspray, as ammonia can bleach spots if there is enough, left on long enough.

use a micro-fiber towel, dampened in water or water/white vinegar mix, to clean tinted windows

I plan on pulling the PO's dark tint off my SC2 eventually. Looks purple from the inside and can be hard to see out of at night

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Old 05-02-2018, 06:50 PM   #66
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

This is what I've got.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg back window.jpg (107.4 KB, 105 views)

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Old 05-02-2018, 07:39 PM   #67
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

That is going to take time.

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Old 05-03-2018, 11:02 AM   #68
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

^ ^ ^ yeah, that looks like leftover adhesive from the tint. It separated from the film and stuck to the window. Nasty stuff.

I would use (in a well ventilated area) a cotton ball with Goof Off mostly squeezed out (to avoid any drips) but only in the spaces between the grid lines, staying away from the lines to get the bulk of it off.

But wait a bit for comments before trying this - in case someone has had Goof Off destroy their grid lines (you can kind of shape the cotton balls into narrow shapes).

Not sure what I would do with the gridlines themselves, though. Maybe the Windex on cotton balls, going slow and light along the lines. Or a 5% ammonia mix, not on the glass itself, but sprayed on a paper towel, placed on a large garbage bag, taped underneath the window and placed in the sun for maybe 15~30 minutes so that the evaporating solution softens up the adhesive (cribbed from one of OldNuc's suggestions in another tint thread )

Not sure what a steamer (if available) would do to the gridlines.

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Old 05-03-2018, 11:57 AM   #69
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Heat applied to local areas can damage the glass due to local stresses.

Goof Off is some mix of hydrocarbons and may not accomplish anything. It is not my favorite cleaner.

Orange oil, this stuff tends to cut through many odd goos. Dilute with distilled water. You should be able to find smaller quantities to give it a try locally. https://www.amazon.com/D-Limonene-Ex...70_&dpSrc=srch Straight Purple Power is also a high Ph product that might cut into the well oxidized adhesive.

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Old 05-05-2018, 08:04 PM   #70
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

We put in the new hydraulics. They seem about the same as the ones I took out. I am wondering if the fingers on the clutch spring​ or the throwout bearing is worn. I can now sometimes get it into third.

I greased the clutch pivots​. It is hard to reach to replace the clip. I stuck wood underneath to help get it on.


We took the shift tower off. Easy to shift into reverse here.


This dust cap pulls off, then an E clip is removed.


Here is the flattened pin OldNuc mentioned.


Here it is vise gripped to twist 90 degrees.


There is lost motion still. I don't think​ it is in the shift tower. Maybe the worn shifter? Maybe bad cables? If I push in on the shift tower to help the cables, it goes into reverse like butter.

I think I know why the air does not work.


Condenser looks pretty bent!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg wood trick.jpg (84.2 KB, 122 views)
File Type: jpg shift tabs.jpg (100.5 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg dust cap.jpg (79.8 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg flats.jpg (74.7 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg twist.jpg (84.2 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg bent.jpg (65.2 KB, 100 views)

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 05-05-2018, 09:43 PM   #71
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Either cut the rivets so you can disassemble the inside shift tower and get the slop out of the shifter or go to JY and pluck one out of an 02 Saturn as they are all identical. Get the cables along with the inside tower. Sounds like yours has expired.

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Old 05-06-2018, 05:34 PM   #72
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Is it possible my worn shifter is causing the third gear grind? Maybe it is not lined up in the center. Third gear is slightly better since we turned that pin. I am definitely going to get a shifter from the junkyard.

Today I finished scraping the window. This was partway there. It is nice to be able to back up safely again.


We popped out the passenger seat. The right front bolt was a mess. Ended up wetting down the carpet and grinding it off. The lock on the left side of the picture is not seating well. This was also preventing the other side from seating. The seat kept sliding fore and aft. We have not figured out what is wrong yet.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rear window.jpg (174.6 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg seat locks.jpg (141.4 KB, 95 views)

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Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
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Old 05-06-2018, 07:12 PM   #73
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

The wire connecting the latches does not look OEM and might be a bit short. Disconnect and see if the latch locks in properly.

Window is starting to clean up.

The gear problem is in the cables, inside selector tower, and outside tower. You probably fixed the outside tower but the cable end bushing outside also wears out, it is the cable that connects to the arm with the pin.

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Old 05-06-2018, 08:19 PM   #74
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

The cable looks stock to me. I took it off. The one on the right of the picture latches well, on the left of the picture (with the torque rod) it does not.

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Old 05-06-2018, 09:25 PM   #75
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Check the latch cam, part of the release lever, is not full of goo. That will hang up the latch pawl.

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Old 05-07-2018, 08:08 PM   #76
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

We took out the passenger seat. I have a hole to drill and tap. Here is a fun max legroom picture on the way to scouts yesterday.


I unbolted the non-locking track. Popped off the e clip that held the cable.


So, this pawl is keeping the seat from locking.


If I rotate the pawl out of the way, this side latches nicely.


It looks like when you slide the seat backwards and put the seatback up, this tab should hit a tab that releases the pawl. I see lots of worn metal. Anybody have a picture of a good one?


In other news, I had to bump start it twice today. The volts measured 14.2 while running, and 13.9 after sitting. We noticed a few things:
1) ground wire looks bad at the block.
2) starts have seemed weak lately
3) the starter will never rust. Plus it is a Saturn, all starters are bad.

Also yesterday I verified the reverse switch is bad.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg legroom.jpg (110.9 KB, 95 views)
File Type: jpg off track.jpg (125.8 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg held open.jpg (143.0 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg pawl released.jpg (146.9 KB, 100 views)
File Type: jpg worn release.jpg (122.1 KB, 95 views)

...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 05-07-2018, 08:37 PM   #77
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

The starter is full of oil and shot. If you take it apart you will find the insides are oil soaked and the commutator is likely completely black. DBElectric sells the replacement. I have a set of gen-2 98 seats so I can get the pix you need tomorrow.

What is supposed to happen with that seat is with the seat pushed back aways and then you want access to the rear seat you lift up on the back release lever and the back springs forward and the seat unlatches on both sides and runs all the way to the forward stop. When you wish to restore normalcy after loading the people or dogs in the rear you lift up on the seat adjuster lever and push it all back by pushing on the back rest. Verify it is not functioning as the other car does.

Last edited by OldNuc; 05-07-2018 at 08:43 PM..

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Old 05-08-2018, 01:38 PM   #78
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

On the passenger side ther is a cable that runs from the right hand side seatback release mechanism that pulls that latch when the back is in the full forward position. This also releases the left side and right side bottom track latches so the seat runs forward with the back folded to the max folded to the front position. Then the cable is present it goes slack when the back is latched into the first upright position. The cable is shown in your first picture and it is this cable that pulls the latch when the seat back is latched into its first upright notch. The seat back is spring loaded to swing forward when the lever is lifted and this also conveniently unlatches both main latches to allow the seat to run full forward by just releasing the back. Operating this when everything is not bolted down is less than simple.

Last edited by OldNuc; 05-08-2018 at 01:44 PM..

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Old 05-08-2018, 01:55 PM   #79
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Richpin seat repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v2k8qPoB8cI

Maybe this will help.

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Old 05-08-2018, 02:06 PM   #80
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Default Re: 98 SC2 project. Drive for now, maybe rebuild later.

Thanks both of you for the info and links on the seat.

I have a DAB electric starter on the way, and a new ground cable. The car starts when cold. It seems 90 minutes of cool down is enough. Overnight is no problem, but the start is still a little weak. I am parking strategically. Long live the manual transmission!

...
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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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