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Old 12-22-2014, 11:58 AM   #1
basile9
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2002 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
2001 SL2
Default SL2 Wont Start

I have a 2001 SL2. Here's is what is happening. I plug in a battery meter into the DC power connector and I get a normal reading around 12 volts. I turn the key to start the car and all power is lost. The reading on the meter is completely blank. Open the hood and slightly move the red positive battery cable and power comes back, meter once again reads normal. Turn the key to start and again, all power is lost. Is this an ignition switch problem? A battery cable problem? Battery is new and has been checked out. Any ideas?

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Old 12-22-2014, 12:24 PM   #2
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2001 SL1
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

Sounds like your problem is just wherever you moved the RED positive wire. Either it's loose at the battery, or the UHJB or starter, OR the wire is damaged and flexing it shows the trouble. Is the cable rock tight on the battery or can you move the stud by just moving the red cable?

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Old 12-22-2014, 12:25 PM   #3
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1998 SC2
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

Disconnect the positive and negative cables. Remove the connector bolts and then slide the covers off. Clean the connectors and if either cable has corrosion down into the cable crimp area soak them in just plain hot water and brush vigorously with a fiber bristle brush. You can use a couple of drops of dish soap as well if you like, just get them cleaned out as best you can. Reassemble and it should work. Go to the Pick and Pull and find a set of clean cables as yours are now scrap copper.

These fit, all models are the same.
00-02 negative
00-02 positive

If you find a white or green corrosion in the cable crimp area then you have or had a leaking battery. If it is still leaking you will end up ruining a new set of cables.

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Old 12-22-2014, 01:09 PM   #4
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

This can be either a loose set of battery cables due to corrosion or a new battery allowed to discharge since loose connections imply possibly poor recharging; loose connections means less power getting to the starter and if the engine starts and runs, recharging from the alternator may fail intermittently. If you can see corrosion on the battery terminals, cleaning is best with a warm solution of baking soda and water using a toothbrush. Baking soda will dissolve and neutralize dry battery residue as seen from immediate bubbling. Soak and scrub off corrosion, rinse with plain water and be sure connections are secure. Overtightening may strip side terminals very quickly. Use caution.

If your new battery is dead, try jump starting from another car battery.

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Old 12-22-2014, 01:40 PM   #5
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1998 SC2
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

Baking soda is insufficiently alkaline to remove the green copper oxide but it does make it near permanent and just removing what you can see is a complete waste of time and effort. It is soluble in warm to hot water though. The white corrosion is something else again.

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Old 12-22-2014, 02:02 PM   #6
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

I've used baking soda/water to dissolve dried powdery battery residue over the years to quickly remove it without too much effort with a toothbrush, leaving clean terminals. I agree it may not do anything for green corrosion as its copper oxidation but that doesn't seem to be a concern for most battery cables left gathering this white powdery residue with many not familiar with removing it. The heavy insulation covering battery cables does it best to hide severe corrosion where this solution will penetrate, dissolve and more importantly, neutralize any acidic action already occurring. The spray cleaners made for battery terminals includes baking soda in their mix along with soluble grease for one stop cleaning, neutralizing battery acid residue and coating against future deposits.

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Old 12-22-2014, 02:23 PM   #7
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1998 SC2
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

The white corrosion - oxide is easily removed. The green copper oxide is not. The green copper oxide occupies more space than the parent copper metal and is a high resistance material. It slowly causes complete cable failure and slowly means something like 5 years or so from the initial application of the acid. It is not reversible without stripping the insulation back and removing the crimped connector and cleaning the wire in either a 30% to 50% concentration of lye in hot water. This brings up several other problems so the usual fix is cable replacement. This is also why copper and acid flux is a no-no and copper wire in the presence of sulfur dioxide does not end well either. As I said, that green corrosion is soluble in cold pure water so washing in distilled water does buy some time and plain tap water is better than nothing.

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Old 12-22-2014, 03:32 PM   #8
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2002 L-Series 2.2L Sedan
2001 SL2
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

Disconnected the positive cable and got rid of the white corrosion and reconnected the cable. Started right up. Maybe that is all it was.

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Old 12-22-2014, 03:51 PM   #9
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

Try the store 'battery spray' if you're not interested in a home brew of water and baking soda - the most inexpensive method to dissolving battery residue and halting future chassis corrosion as this dry residue mixes with moisture and slowly eats away bare metal around the battery area - just look for rust. The residue is easily found by dribbling the home mix anywhere. Bubbling is the chemical reaction to neutralizing the acidic powder. Dribble this mix anywhere else and nothing occurs - battery vapors travel and deposits nearby but doesn't spread elsewhere in the engine area.

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Old 12-22-2014, 04:24 PM   #10
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1998 SC2
Default Re: SL2 Wont Start

Quote:
Originally Posted by basile9 View Post
Disconnected the positive cable and got rid of the white corrosion and reconnected the cable. Started right up. Maybe that is all it was.
Highly likely. The white corrosion is common and the green is only from a leaking battery. With a clean tight connection it will not corrode.

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