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Old 01-15-2002, 01:05 PM   #1
Qlara
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Dizzy Battery Light flickering

My 93 SL2's on dash battery light is flickering occasionally, though it never stay on constantly like the Alternator is failing.....

I use a lighter-plug type of charge tester while the engine is running and it yields normal condition so the Alternator seems working fine. The battery maybe the culprit, but the car is still staring fine in every morning, no slow crank.....

Anyone here has a deeper insights of what else might go wrong, other than Battery and Alt possibly?
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Old 01-15-2002, 01:11 PM   #2
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You check all the connections for tightness?
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Old 01-15-2002, 02:07 PM   #3
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Alternator belt slipping
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Old 01-15-2002, 05:06 PM   #4
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My 1993 SL2 did the flickering bit several times. First time,I checked battery connections and no luck so took car to dealer as it was still under warranty. I expected there would be battery or alternator problem. I was somewhat embarassed when car was returned to me in about 15 minutes with explanation that connections were slightly loose and just needed good tightening up.

Next time it happened,I loosened connections,moved them around a bit to get rid of dirt and crud and then tightened up and all was well. Make sure you really tighten up battery terminal connections. Doesn't hurt to clean off terminals now and then.
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Old 01-16-2002, 12:20 AM   #5
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The Delco CS130 alternator has sophisticated circuitry that allows it to identify failure of a component, such as a partially opened stator lead or a weak diode, and will give a dash light indication even though the alternator has not totally gone. This early warning capability will usually allow you to safely get home or to a repair facility. However, a dash light can also mean the alternator's completely dead, and then it becomes a race between you and whatever's left in the battery.
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Old 01-16-2002, 01:02 AM   #6
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if it hasn't been happening for too long i would say that it's the alternator... i had mine go out on a 94 SC2 and i believe that the battery light was flickering for a couple weeks before things started turning *****ty... motor would cut off in the middle of driving then kick back on b/c the alt wasn't staying engaged.


Bill
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Old 01-16-2002, 02:59 AM   #7
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Thanks all the input comments. I'll try to get the replacement battery first (will check all terminals tightness at the mean time), and see if the light might still flicks........otherwise I'll have to get the Alt replaced too, this is the 2nd Alt in this car already.

Interesting, my 94 SL with 115k is still using the orginal Alt. Looks like 1st generation SL2 really has a trend to kill off the Alt.
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Old 01-16-2002, 07:35 PM   #8
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if you have power everything in the sl2 but not in the sl that would explain it to some extent... haveing all the power stuff puts more of a drain on the alt.

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Old 01-16-2002, 08:56 PM   #9
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Dizzy

Unfortunately my 93 SL2 didn't opt for those luxury power items.....the only diff to my SL is just the Power Steering and Auto Tranny only.

So I don't think the Alt is killed by excessive watt drainage since I always stingy on electric usage.
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Old 01-17-2002, 12:47 AM   #10
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Don't spend money on a battery untill you have your alt checked with load testing equipment. Not the little hand held unit. You need to have the alt put under load to see if the amps and volts can keep up with the request of the load thats put on it. If you go and buy a battery before you test the system your just throwing parts at the problem. Stop by the dealer and ask them to test it for you. They may charge you for the test but will apply that money towards the repair if you have them do it. If nothing else go to a NAPA store and ask if they can do a full test. At last resort go to a chain auto parts store. Some have the equipment and some evan have people that know how to use it.
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Old 01-17-2002, 03:12 PM   #11
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Pep Boys did free alternator load testing for me a while back but it has to be out of the car. Didnt ask if they could do a load test for me while installed. I was sure the alt was dead so when I took it in to get a new one they load tested it.

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Old 01-17-2002, 03:20 PM   #12
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I had an alternator go bad on my old car. I took it out and had trakauto test it, and they told me it was fine. So I took the battery out and had them test that, and they once again told me it was fine. I cleaned all the terminals, and yet the car kept dying on me. So I took it to a mechanic, turns out the diodes in the alternator were bad. Since then I haven't been too keen on Trak's "free testing service."
 
Old 01-17-2002, 04:10 PM   #13
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My 92 SL2 still has the original alt. running at 181K mi. I must have gotten the one good one. Maybe when the car finally dies the alternator will go into a museum.
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Old 01-17-2002, 05:15 PM   #14
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Mine's original on my '95 SW1 - 250K.
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Old 01-18-2002, 12:35 AM   #15
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Mine's original too at 123k (95 SL).

I have a theory. Tell me if I'm right.

Those of you who have had early and/or multiple altenator problems, does your power steering pump drip? Check out the bottom of your ps pump and see if it has a build up of sludge.

If its dripping fluid on your alt, the fluid will attrac dirt and pretty soon the alternator has a layer of insulating goop on it and can't radiate heat as well.

Nobody I know with an SL model (no power steering) has had early alternator failures!
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Old 01-18-2002, 06:09 AM   #16
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Your theory about the dripping PS pump may be correct in some cases, but there's also the theory that with no PS pump above the alternator, the increased airflow allows more cooling.

My alternator is original in my 95 SL2 with PS and 103,500 miles, but in my case I think it's because my car has always run cool, no more than 1/3 when moving except in extreme summer heat. Now it runs even cooler because I'm pretty sure the thermostat is stuck open. I get slightly worse mileage now that it's winter, but I'm not so sure I want to replace the thermostat if it's going to lead to premature alternator failure!
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Old 01-18-2002, 06:59 PM   #17
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Happy

Talking about thermostat you should get it replace though. Interesting to see Saturn's thermostat is consistently quit working near 100k miles....well, no complain but it's quite predictable.

I did the replacement twice on both cars, not very hard to do but you must move the AC compressor out of the way first (no need to disconnect any hoses). The part is about $20+ from Saturn.
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Old 01-18-2002, 10:46 PM   #18
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Phil - just curious... did you ever have a dead battery for any reason?

I have a theory as to why alternators fry sometimes - if you kill your battery, say due to leaving your lights on, and you jump start it, the alternator putting on max power for a prolonged time charging a totally discharged battery may cause premature failure.
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Old 01-18-2002, 11:46 PM   #19
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Dr. Bob...

I had my battery go out on me a while back (don't remember just how long). The thing just up and died, and it wasn't the original battery (dunno when the original died). I replaced it with a really nice Champion, and all has been well.

qlara- when I replaced my thermostat I didn't have to move the compressor at all. Of course, the extra room gained by having the intake, radiator, and cooling fans removed at the time probably gave me plenty of room, but it may well be possible to swap w/o moving the compressor even with the radiator and cooling fans installed. I do think that the intake would have to go, however.
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Old 01-19-2002, 12:52 AM   #20
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I replaced my thermostat also without having to remove the ac compressor

Heartbeat- my thermostat was stuck open also, replaced that and the coolant sensor, what happens the alt goes out, im on my 4th on with 120k, and no my PS doesn't leak, I think it's these hot TX summers
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