2005 vue v6 3.5 crank no start

[Roerocks]

I need help understanding what in the heck is going on....okay so this vue has not been operational for a year it cranks but wont start and i really didnt receive any help from the owner except it wont start. I have checked for spark and fuel which i have neither. Spark i checked by having buddy doing whatever needs to be done under the hood with a screwdriver hopefully he did it right but i checked fuel by pressing the schrader valve on rail and no gas exited. The key fob does not work and the owners brother decided to take all the brass keys from the cylinder i do not have passlock light blinking or study it goes out like normal. The gas tank was dropped looking for fuel pump by the genius brother in which he dropped driveline and muffler to do so hmmmm. I can not get a read through the obd it says no data connection and the drivers door will not open from the inside. While putting gas into tank it sounds like its just flowing out onto the ground but isnt never heard that before. Oh in closing i found a chewed up wire next to a critter condo but have determined it is the reverse lights plug that plugs into the tranny. Have not located any other critter damage. I could really use some advise on what i should do my first saturn vue is a 2003 v6 3.0 and my brakes blew up while going down hill last week so im without a vehicle. But if you could also let me know if any parts are swappable that would be awesome cant find definite answer online or at westbay/napa in my area. Thanks in advance you all rock 🎸~Rhonda

[Mr Toad]

I would check fuses and power and grounds on the computer. If you find those
are correct then I would suspect the computer is dead.

[fdryer]

Advanced troubleshooting is needed here to test for spark and fuel. If you can perform some simple tests, you may be able to narrow this problem down. Your descriptions seems to point to a dead crank position sensor. When the engine rotates, the crank sensor generates precise timing signals the ecm needs to run the entire EFI system; turn on fuel pump, generate spark for ignition and pulse injectors. No crank sensor signals = no fuel pump, no spark, no injector pulses.

A fuel test simply means turning on ignition without starting the engine, locating the fuel test valve on the fuel rail feeding fuel to cylinders. The fuel test valve is similar to tire valves with a black plastic dust cap, remove the cap and cover the valve loosely with a rag while depressing the valve stem, expecting fuel to spray out. When ignition is turned on, engine isn't started, the ecm cycles the fuel pump for two seconds, enough to build pressure to see fuel spray from the test valve or pressure when a fuel pressure gauge is connected. No fuel spray? Check for a blown fuel pump fuse in the engine fuse panel.

Spark can be tested but only if plugs are visible with spark plug wires. Separate ignition coils; one would have to be removed along with a spark plug, both reconnected and laid out over the engine with the plug base grounded to the engine block while someone starts the engine. Spark should be seen jumping across the plug gap.

With many (more than several starting attempts) there may be an issue of creating a flooded engine as a cold engine is detected by electronics with the ecm automatically injecting more fuel for cold engine starting. After several failed attempts, the engine can become flooded with wet spark plugs shorting the high voltage spark. If this occurs, the simple remedy is to hold the gas pedal down to the floor while starting; the ecm couples detecting wide open throttle and a cold engine to halt injector operation, described as 'clear flood mode' until the engine sputters to a start. This may require tow or more 5 second starting attempts before the engine blows out excess fuel and spark returns to ignite each cylinder for a startup. Releasing the gas pedal after startup to allow the engine warm up on its own.

There's one other method of troubleshooting using starting fluid that presumes spark is occurring (fuel issue); spraying starting fluid into the throttle body while starting as a substitute fuel with spark igniting this fuel/air mixture to verify ignition is working but fuel is the issue.

Zero spark and zero fuel implies the ecm isn't operating with the most likely issue; a dead crank sensor. The crank sensor is the electronic heart beat of the ecm. Without an operating crank sensor, the entire EFI system is dead.

[Roerocks]

Thank you for responding its appreciated before i posted i had already checked for spark and fuel in which i have neither so i am leaning toward a failed crankshaft sensor come to find out the owner took this one out and cleaned it so you never know. I would like to know if there is anything along with the tank itself that could have been bumped unplugged etc when brother dropped the tank and driveline?? What should i keep the look out for? Does the cylinder not having the brass keys in it cause a problem with security? Oh and i got fob to work after i changed battery but still not able to get reading from obd port ~Rhonda

[fdryer]

1- review the fuel test paragraph. In addition, a wire jumper across the fuel pump relay socket (relay removed) pins 30 and 87 should send 12v to power the fuel pump immediately, regardless of ignition switch position. If the pump fuse is ok, powering up the fuel pump verifies pump wiring.

2- the ignition lock cylinder is conventional, using brass pin tumblers - a good mechanical system for everyday key use. The Passlock security system piggy backs the ignition lock cylinder to synchronize turning the ign switch with passive magnetic sensors detecting ign lock cylinder rotation as part of a security test. The only indicator is a yellow security icon of a car with oversize padlock. It should turn on along with all other indicators then turn off before starting. The indicators turning on then off in a few seconds are part of system power up self test of all electronics. The security indicator cycling on then off means the factory theft deterrent system passed its own self tests, didn't detect a theft, and allows normal starting. A flashing security indicator means Passlock detected a theft and immediately disables fuel injector operation, preventing the engine from running. Blinking security; when using remotes to Lock all doors/enable security. Security indicator always on; Passlock self tests failed and disabled itself from interfering with everyday starting and driving, no theft protection.

3- the OBD II port has fused power. I don't know which fuse but if blown, readers may not connect to communicate to the body control module for error codes.