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Old 12-22-2004, 11:52 AM   #1
Twin_Cam
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Wrench Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

www.xwarlordx.com/twin_cam/tech.html

Many images to help, plus torque values and bolt sizes. Enjoy.

...
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Old 12-22-2004, 02:08 PM   #2
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

I can only salute you on your outline, detailed & exceptional pictures. Simply fabulous.......

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 12-22-2004, 06:45 PM   #3
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

Thank you. Hope it helps people. What the dealer wants to charge you to do it is ridiculous

...
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:48 AM   #4
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

Granted, and this in violation of the policy of this forum being used only for input of recommended "procedures" for a given work effort, your input, is a very good example of how impressive the professionls have been in the outlining of various work efforts.

...
> 95 SL 2 = 653,369 Miles 40.4 MPG, as of 5/20/11. My manual Radiator Fan Switch, courtesy of Wolfman's patient installation guidance, continues to be.......invaluable < The car was retired

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Old 12-24-2004, 03:39 PM   #5
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Default Re: How to change a front hub/bearing on an S-series (pictures included!)

I wish I had such detailed information when I changed the from wheel hub on my 1998 Dodge Caravan.

I may not have ended up having to purchase a new steering knuckle due to my getting a bit rambunctious.

Chas

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Old 01-02-2005, 10:46 PM   #6
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

This is a great how to outline, it made the job much easier than going in blind. This job is fairly simple given you have all the necessary tools. There is only one thing I would like to add. I had access to a press so I decided to press and bearing and hub myself. After pressing the bearing into the knuckle make sure you support the bearing with somthing other than just the snap ring when pressing the hub in to the bearing/knuckle assembly. I also placed the hub in ice while i ate lunch so that it would be somewhat easier to get the hub pressed in without damaging the bearing.

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Old 07-19-2009, 06:32 PM   #7
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

your site is no longer valid? Trying to get wheel bearing off and it won't budge.

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Old 08-17-2009, 01:31 PM   #8
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Cannot get down load of pictures? Help!!!!

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Old 09-26-2012, 05:17 PM   #9
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Thanks to this post I was able to get everything apart. It took longer that I expected, thank-you salt on the roads in the winter, but it is apart. The machine shop closed at 5 when I finally got things disassembled on the one side, so I will have to bring the knuckle in tomorrow. Hopefully it won't be too expensive to press it out and press the new one in.

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Old 10-22-2012, 12:16 PM   #10
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

I have everything off, now I am a bit stumped on how to press out the bearing itself. I got the HUB and the retaining ring off.

What side does the bearing need to be pressed from? The back or the front? And is it pushed from the inner race (the wider one i guess)?

Any help is appreciated! Thank you!

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Old 02-07-2013, 10:59 AM   #11
avuwa96
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Great write-up, well illustrated step-by-step w/ pics.
Don't know if anyone can confirm this for step 27

27. Put the wheel back on and snug up the lug nuts. Take the car off of the jackstands. Torque the halfshaft nut to 145 ft-lb...

I'm not 100% sure, but shouldn't this be done while the wheel is jacked up so the pressure is applied evenly? I was under the impression you can reduce lifespan of the new bearing if you don't torque this with the wheel of the ground.

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Old 02-07-2013, 02:44 PM   #12
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Dizzy Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

This thread has been the most helpful to getting this project done. However, it has taken me 3 days (so far) and a couple trips to the store once I realized I did not have all the correct Metric sockets. I am now stuck on trying to get the lower control arm off the knuckle. I borrowed a small pry bar and have nothing to extend it to give more leverage. Any Ideas?? Everything is so rusted I doubt I will be able to take off the tie rod from the frame.

Thanks.
its an 02' SL BTW

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Old 02-08-2013, 04:27 PM   #13
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Nevermind with my question. Shortly after I posted I finally found Richpin's videos and learned all I needed was a BFH. A few whacks and I had it out. I then found a local shop that let me use their press for FREE! All in all a good learning experience and will tackle the intake manifold gasket when I have a day off and all the right tools.

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Old 02-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #14
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

I am on my second replacement of the front left bearing. I replaced just the front left with a 'masterpro' bearing from Oh Really only 30k ago. The masterpro bearing is $36. I had 150k on it then. At the time I figured that the original lasted 150k, so a cheap bearing should last at least half that, which would take me out to 225k, which would be the time to drive it off a cliff. That may be wrong or it may be that my hub is bungled. I did hit a curb pretty bad once. Any way, I found a Timken bearing for $33 on RockAuto. I don't have any prior experience with bearing quality, but the bearing from O'Reilly did say china, and the Timken did say USA. So for three bucks less and a few days wait it seemed a good choice. Now the first time I took it apart those nuts and bolts down there did take a lot of torque to loosen. However, as standard practice I applied a little antisieze to threads and the drive shaft splines AND threads. This second time taking it apart everything came apart pretty easy. I went straight for the 6' pipe extension on the driveshaft nut, and it only took about 30 lbf to loosen the nut. Figure I had a lever arm of 5'. That would mean the torque was about right. Compared to initial removal which probably took 100+lbf.... USE ANITSEIZE!

Now then having had such great luck with the hub nut, I decided to skip the caliper pins and go straight for the brake bracket bolts. Walla! brake off in one piece!

The first time I took the hub and spindle to Johnson Sales north of Madison, WI, because they are near my house. I had planned on doing the same again this time, but it was Saturday night, they were closed, and I was two hours ahead of schedule thanks to anitsieze. Also, since the first round I realized I have access to a press. So off to the press I went.

I pressed out the spindle, but the outer half of the outer race decided to stay on the spindle. MotherFlippingGRRRR! I have to wonder if that was a built up outer race. The Timken bearing doesn't have any sign of a connection in the middle outside of the outer race?!? NO MORE MASTERPRO!!! So, I took the angle grinder to it and a hardened chisel. That got it cracked and seperated from the splindle side seat a little. A gear puller did the rest.

Next up; putting it back together. I considered putting stuff in the freezer, however, since it's cold as a witches pizz here in wisco, I brought the hub inside and left everything else in my 2-car deep freeze. That'll buy me 70 degrees of thermal expansion. Not quite 400 that the oven would offer, but I have a 20 ton press, and I'd rather not wear gloves to handle a smoking hot hub. Hopefully, I won't have anything more of interest to report, but if I do, I will let ya know. Later.

'99 SL2.

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Old 02-17-2013, 10:39 AM   #15
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Default Re: Changing a Front Hub/Bearing on an S-Series (with pictures)

Oops I meant the inner race on the outside stayed on the spindle. ..so I clamped the spindle in a vice and went to town on the race with a grinder.

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