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Old 04-06-2011, 12:51 AM   #1
wi111y
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Default 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

Okay, I'm starting a thread for all the issues I'm going to be working on with my SC2

A little history: I bought it 11/2010 for $800 with 177,000 on it. A short while later, my brother cracked the head on it. The power steering pulley and shaft fell off and he kept driving. So 4 months later she's got a new head on her and shes back in action.

Known issues:

-Passenger side caliper is stuck. I realized this when I went to replace the brake pads and couldn't get the thing off. I read heating the bolt up will sometimes get it unstuck, I'll probably take a heat gun to it and see what happens. Any tips or tricks on this are appreciated.

-High idle. It SOMETIMES idles high (around 1500) until you tap on the throttle and get it above 2k, then the idle is normal again. ECTS was replaced with the new head.

-Temperature. The temp gauge sits right around the halfway mark. I think I remember reading that it should only be about 3/8 of the way up.. Maybe a new thermostat would solve this? Coolant was changed obviously with the head.

That's all I have for now, any advice, tips, tricks are appreciated. I'll update this thread as I fix it up to my liking or find any new issues

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Old 04-06-2011, 07:02 AM   #2
Ramics
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

I can't comment on the other stuff due to lack of disecting those areas, but your coolant temp does sound normal.

I just replaced the ECTS, water pump, thermostat (Stant 14279 recomended) and housing to OE, new cap, cleaned out the Throttle Body and those attached sensors as well as the pintle on the EGR! Had the intake manifold hot tanked and is spotless inside and out.

Prior to all of this the car was running a little over 1/4 on the temp gauge and i thought that was great, but after getting on here found out it was a little too cool.
Also experienced boiling over (boilover) but OldNuc directed me to have the small line on top of the recovery tank through the intake manifold to be clog free. That changed everything!

So after all the above the car now runs "normal" at just a touch under the 1/2 mark on the gauge until the fan kicks on at around 5/8. Fan stays on until the gauge reads just a little under "normal" temp.

Check the below link for some helpful info to get your SC2 back to the way she belongs..

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=124184

Also replaced the gears in the pop-up headlights to brass and now they are as smooth as the engine.

Last edited by Ramics; 04-06-2011 at 07:13 AM..

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Old 04-06-2011, 03:51 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by wi111y View Post
-High idle. It SOMETIMES idles high (around 1500) until you tap on the throttle and get it above 2k, then the idle is normal again. ECTS was replaced with the new head.
I had a similar problem, no codes given, replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and it went away, but I would clean out the Throttle assembly first.

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Old 04-06-2011, 11:47 PM   #4
wi111y
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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I had a similar problem, no codes given, replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and it went away, but I would clean out the Throttle assembly first.
I cleaned it with brake parts cleaner while it was off, I could probably disassemble it and give it a more thorough cleaning though, thanks for the reply

EDIT:

While I had the passenger front wheel off and splash guard out for the timing cover removal, I noticed the axle shaft had a ton of grease around the boot. How do I tell if I need to replace the whole thing, or just the boot

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Old 04-07-2011, 02:14 AM   #5
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

I dont think its the TPS since it happened to me for the first time today. My TPS was just cleaned.

It came and went with a mind of its own..

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Old 04-07-2011, 04:37 AM   #6
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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I dont think its the TPS since it happened to me for the first time today. My TPS was just cleaned.

It came and went with a mind of its own..
That's the tricky part, usually its ECTS, but that's brand new, connector is clean. IAC valve was replaced, but it didn't change anything, so I took it back. I might throw a TPS in it when I have the $$, but right now its weird lol.

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Old 04-07-2011, 07:03 AM   #7
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

Maybe cleaning my TPS wasnt enough? A new one in order?

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Old 04-07-2011, 11:05 AM   #8
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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Maybe cleaning my TPS wasnt enough? A new one in order?
Fixed my high idle issue, turns out the previous owner installed the IAC valve with only one bolt, it wiggled loose, causing a vacuum leak. Found a bolt to put in there, voila! Idles like it should now.

Now on to the "clunk" noise from the right front during moderate braking or shifting... could be a motor mount, guess I get to check that next.

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Old 04-07-2011, 12:02 PM   #9
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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Originally Posted by wi111y View Post
How do I tell if I need to replace the whole thing, or just the boot
Join the club
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=137511

From research on here, quick-boots and the like will not work, and you can't easily replace just the boot apparently (or maybe it wasn't worth the trouble, as grease on the outside means grit and dirt on the inside, can't recall)

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11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 151k DD
7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project
12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

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Old 04-07-2011, 02:46 PM   #10
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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Maybe cleaning my TPS wasnt enough? A new one in order?
TPS is an electrical component, I don't see how cleaning it would help if its failing.

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Old 04-07-2011, 11:18 PM   #11
wi111y
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
Join the club
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=137511

From research on here, quick-boots and the like will not work, and you can't easily replace just the boot apparently (or maybe it wasn't worth the trouble, as grease on the outside means grit and dirt on the inside, can't recall)
Excellent link! Like you, this would be my first (well FWD anyway..) time working with axles and all that good stuff. Hopefully some weekend soon I can get some time to do it.

That and the motor mount and it should almost feel like a different car

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:16 AM   #12
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

Well, think I may have found the source of the clunking... looks like somebody didn't put all the bolts back in the motor mount bracket... its missing 2, only has 1 in it... loosely.

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:22 AM   #13
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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Well, think I may have found the source of the clunking... looks like somebody didn't put all the bolts back in the motor mount bracket... its missing 2, only has 1 in it... loosely.
Well at least it's a cheap fix!

I'd sure consider giving the other important fasteners a once-over, especially those related to safety just to make sure there isn't additional loose/missing hardware. Drive axles, steering, brakes, etc. finger tight in those areas wouldn't lead to anything good.

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Old 04-15-2011, 01:42 AM   #14
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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Maybe cleaning my TPS wasnt enough? A new one in order?
Hi there,
I have read that the TPS can develop worn spots or "dead" spots internally over time. I would advise trying a new TPS and see if the problem goes away.

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Old 04-15-2011, 09:46 AM   #15
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by wi111y View Post
Well, think I may have found the source of the clunking... looks like somebody didn't put all the bolts back in the motor mount bracket... its missing 2, only has 1 in it... loosely.
A little loctite is recommended on the middle threads
http://alordofchaos.com/Documents/TSB-01-T-30A.pdf

First time I did the mount, I did it without the loctite and one of the bolt had loosened up in a couple weeks to where I could turn it with my fingers guess it turned out to be a good thing I have to add oil every so often

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Old 04-15-2011, 10:23 AM   #16
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

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Well, think I may have found the source of the clunking... looks like somebody didn't put all the bolts back in the motor mount bracket... its missing 2, only has 1 in it... loosely.
Are you talking about the top mount itself? It shouldn't use ANY bolts. Bolts will break the timing cover. It should have studs and nuts. If you're talking about the bracket on the spaceframe that holds the mount, those bolts are unfortunately not very easy to reach with the engine in-frame. In any event, whatever's missing, with that much movement you're at risk of breaking the timing cover any time you torque the engine.

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Old 04-16-2011, 10:16 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1996 SC2 Fix Up Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
A little loctite is recommended on the middle threads
http://alordofchaos.com/Documents/TSB-01-T-30A.pdf

First time I did the mount, I did it without the loctite and one of the bolt had loosened up in a couple weeks to where I could turn it with my fingers guess it turned out to be a good thing I have to add oil every so often
Quote:
Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Are you talking about the top mount itself? It shouldn't use ANY bolts. Bolts will break the timing cover. It should have studs and nuts. If you're talking about the bracket on the spaceframe that holds the mount, those bolts are unfortunately not very easy to reach with the engine in-frame. In any event, whatever's missing, with that much movement you're at risk of breaking the timing cover any time you torque the engine.
Bracket, not mount

My younger brother is the one that put it back on after the head replacement, shoulda double checked his work... Either way, bracket is tightened up, and cover is still in one piece. Onto the next issue!

Things to tackle still:

- Motor mount replacement, this one has a big old crack in it

- Passenger Axle, grease is all leaked out

- Radiator is cracked on the end

Also, is the cooling fan supposed to come on at some point? Joking, I know it is, but I let the thing idle for 30 minutes, the temp gauge never passed 1/2, and the fan never turned on, even with the ac turned on (there's no compressor there, hence that plug isn't plugged in, does that affect the fan coming on with AC request?).

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