Engine head replacement 07 ion 2.2

[Bill Murray]

I've had good luck with KBS brush on high temp coating on cast iron manifolds.
The cleaner the better...if you can get it bead blasted that's a good prep.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/high-te...re-paints.html

[rjc862003]

so that cleaned up way better then I thought

put new lifters in re-assemble see what happens
reusing the lifters is silly for how cheap they are nobody likes a ticky motor
its hard to tell but I don't see a lot of cross hatching left on the piston bores which means its pretty worn out but ... send it

[that1man]

Originally Posted by rjc862003

also the one you posted does not have EGR if you need it you need a different head

How can I find out if I have this?

Also, how could I tell if the hydraulic lifters can be reused or need replacing? Got a new head that came with new valves, valve guides springs, retainers, keepers, studs, even came with the pieces that hold down the camshafts (don't know what they're called). Got the gasket kit and spark plugs. Ready to install it. Just need to find out about the litters

[that1man]

Originally Posted by fdryer

Someone else can answer your question about the valve lifters.

If you had found and mentioned bent valves, I think everyone would have simply said the cylinder head is most likely toast because along with bent valves, valve stems may include bent/deformed valve guides that would double the repairs from valve replacement, lapping valves to seats and replacing all the valve guides. A good eye should see this and machinists will see it almost immediately. The next question is whether or not the crankshaft, connecting rods and crank/wrist pin bearings took a beating since they're involved in bending valves. Bending valves are usually caused by mechanical things out of time, crashing into each other resulting in catastrophic damage only a tear down will reveal.

Can you give any tips on setting the time chain correctly? We think we have it in but the guy helping me is afraid it might e a 180° mistake, if that makes since. He's concerned that if it needs a 180° adjustment that when tying to start it up it will bend the valves, again.

There is the hayns manual and other people online saying how it should be, then someone online going off of the Saturn factory repair manual.

We have it to where the copper and black links (black is silver in the Haynes manual) line up on the gears like in the manual illustration but he's honestly not sure. I think he'll eventually figure it out but it's just he likes to go by the book as much as possible and it's confusing and sometimes contradicting, I guess

This particular chain has 2 copper links and a black one (silver in the manual). Actually, one of the copper links is kinda half silver either by design or discolored/"smudged" looking from scraping against something?

Thanks

[fdryer]

In every timing setup of 4-stroke engines, cylinder #1 is used for TDC when both intake and exhaust valves are closed. With 4-stroke engines, two full revolutions (720 degrees) of the crankshaft is required to get to tdc. Assuming nothing, rotate the crank until cyl#1 exhaust valve begins to open. As the crankshaft rotates and closes cyl#1 exhaust valve, tdc is reached. Continuing past tdc, the intake valve begins to open, past tdc. When the intake valve opens and closes, 180 degrees of crank rotation will occur. This is not tdc (only 180 degree of 720). Intake closing begins the combustion cycle for another 180 degrees before the exhaust valve opens, needing 180 degrees to open and close where TDC occurs to begin another 4-stroke cycle.

A straw inserted into cylinder#1 can help visualize piston travel relative to intake and exhaust valve opening/closing while viewing both valves. When timing is correct, several crankshaft revolutions (two revolutions per 4-stroke cycle) should occur without pistons meeting valves.

There should a few youtube videos for 2.2l ecotech engines since GM used them in several models.

[that1man]

Originally Posted by fdryer

In every timing setup of 4-stroke engines, cylinder #1 is used for TDC when both intake and exhaust valves are closed. With 4-stroke engines, two full revolutions (720 degrees) of the crankshaft is required to get to tdc. Assuming nothing, rotate the crank until cyl#1 exhaust valve begins to open. As the crankshaft rotates and closes cyl#1 exhaust valve, tdc is reached. Continuing past tdc, the intake valve begins to open, past tdc. When the intake valve opens and closes, 180 degrees of crank rotation will occur. This is not tdc (only 180 degree of 720). Intake closing begins the combustion cycle for another 180 degrees before the exhaust valve opens, needing 180 degrees to open and close where TDC occurs to begin another 4-stroke cycle.

A straw inserted into cylinder#1 can help visualize piston travel relative to intake and exhaust valve opening/closing while viewing both valves. When timing is correct, several crankshaft revolutions (two revolutions per 4-stroke cycle) should occur without pistons meeting valves.

There should a few youtube videos for 2.2l ecotech engines since GM used them in several models.

Thanks for explaining this. Got it running!

After putting everything back together it started up in less than 30 seconds. Smoked for a good bit due to spilled fluids like oil and coolant from when unhooking things but eventually stopped. It drives pretty good but sounds kinda ruff when accelerating in the first few gears. Accelerates normally.

There is a camshaft sensor code (I think that's what it said. Hopefully nothing major and something easy to resolve. Wish I knew what was making it sound louder than usual when accelerating in the first few gears. Maybe it just needs to brake back in? Hope so.

Gotta tune it up. Oil change, maybe a coolant drain and fill, etc. Also needs a new ignition switch. Had to start it by hooking the starter up to the battery post.

Had a few bolts and nuts leftover that I couldn't remember where they went smh. Two of them were long like 5-7 inches and it bothers me. Hope the engine doesn't pop out while I'm doing 70 down the highway. Gotta get some replacement bolts for the exhaust manifold heat shield. Nothing will burn through the firewall or anything will it?


Thanks to everyone who helped me out!

[fdryer]

The noise may be from the bottom end, maybe connecting rod bearings. When the valves met pistons with skinny valve stems bending, the shock is sent everywhere. Con rods can bend/break, wrist pins may crack pistons, crankshaft plain bearings squish, etc. Anything imagined is answered with a full tear down. Guessing is easy.

[that1man]

Originally Posted by fdryer

The noise may be from the bottom end, maybe connecting rod bearings. When the valves met pistons with skinny valve stems bending, the shock is sent everywhere. Con rods can bend/break, wrist pins may crack pistons, crankshaft plain bearings squish, etc. Anything imagined is answered with a full tear down. Guessing is easy.

Forgot to mention that it sounds good under the hood while idle, not so sure from inside. Not too bad but I have to check again.

[fdryer]

The positive side of this is a great budget rebuild. Unfortunately, running at idle places zero load on the engine. Once loads are engaged, driving, expert engine rebuilders with extensive experience may be the only ones to know what engine parts are damaged. A video recording (explaining what occurred to bring you to a budget rebuild) put on YouTube asking for suggestions may help with a link to this site.

[markyoung]

The cost varies. It depends upon the seller.