Clutch pedal replacement

[ruley73]

Last night I went to push the clutch pedal in to start my car and the (plastic) clutch pedal broke. The temp was around 0 to 5* F. I'm upset, but luckily the car is parked at my parent's house and can be pushed in their garage to fix it after the part gets here.

Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace or how long it will take? I was surpised to find that this doesn't appear to have happened to anyone else on here. After looking for info elswhere online it looks like I need to replace the entire clutch pedal assembly because the pedal arm is not sold separately. Some folks on redlineforums said they had to remove the clutch master cylinder, but the instructions do not say this.

The PDF is too large to post so I will post the text in a separate post.

[ruley73]

Clutch Pedal Replacement

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the clutch pedal retainer from the front of the clutch pedal assembly.
2. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch (2) from the clutch bracket.
3. Remove the clutch pedal pivot nut.
4. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal assembly.
5. Remove the clutch bracket to front of dash nuts.
6. Lower the steering column opening cover and remove the steering column mounting bolts. Refer to Steering Column Replacement .
Move the steering column enough to have clearance to remove the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.
7. Remove the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.
8. Remove the clutch pedal pivot bolt (1) and retainer (2).
9. Remove the clutch pedal.
10. Secure the clutch pedal and return spring and remove the clutch pedal pivot bolt.
11. Remove the clutch pedal (3), return spring (2), and pivot bushings (1).

Installation Procedure

1. Install the clutch pedal (3), return spring (2), and pivot bushings (1).
2. Secure the clutch pedal and return spring and install the clutch pedal pivot bolt (1) and retainer (2).
3. Install the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.
4. Install the clutch pedal bracket to front of dash nuts. Tighten the nuts to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
5. Install the steering column mounting bolts and steering column opening cover. Refer to Steering Column Replacement .
6. Connect the clutch master cylinder to the clutch pedal assembly.
7. Install the clutch pedal pivot nut. Tighten the nut to 10 N·m (89 lb in).
8. Connect the clutch pedal position switch (2) to the clutch pedal bracket.
9. Install the clutch pedal retainer to the front of the clutch pedal assembly.
10. Connect the clutch start switch (2) to the clutch pedal bracket.
11. If a new clutch pedal assembly was installed, perform the following steps to adjust the pedal position switch:
11.1. A 3/32 inch or 2 mm drill bit can be used as a gage tool for the proper adjustment of the CPP switch. Insert and seat the 3/32 inch or 2 mm drill bit through the slot
in the top of the clutch pedal assembly.
11.2. Install the CPP switch (1) to the clutch pedal assembly.
11.3. While holding the pedal in the fully released position, press the switch (1) toward the pedal until the barrel of the switch touches the drill bit on the pedal assembly.
11.4. Rotate the switch (1) clockwise to secure.
11.5. Remove the drill bit.
11.6. Connect the electrical connector (2) to the CPP switch (1).
12. Remove the shipping clip (1) from the new pedal assembly.
13. Adjust the clutch start switch. Refer to Clutch Pedal Engine Start Switch Replacement .

[ruley73]

I got the new pedal today. It looks a bit different than I expected because the metal bracket that comes with it is not shown in GM's part diagram. I thought I would take a couple pictures of the new part and point out the weak spot where mine broke. There is a hollow channel there that I've blotched with orange in the second picture. I'd like to strengthen this part of the pedal as it didn't take much horizontal pressure to break it.

I thought about roughing up the inside of this hollow channel and filling it in with a good epoxy to add more structural strength to this part of the pedal as it is significantly thinner and weaker than the rest of the pedal which is wider and has webbing in the rest of the hollow channels (see last picture shown below).

Does this seem like a good idea or am I wasting my time? Does anyone have any other suggestions? Any input would be appreciated.

clutch_pedal.jpg

Hollow part is blotched in orange, Break point marked with yellow line.
clutch_pedal_1.jpg

clutch_pedal_2.jpg

clutch_pedal_4.jpg

Notice how much narrower the pedal gets toward the top.
clutch_pedal_5.jpg

[ruley73]

I got the new clutch pedal installed last night. It took about 3 hours with a bit of help from my brother while taking our time with a couple breaks. Removing the driver's seat is easy and makes laying down to work on it a lot more tolerable.

I decided not to strengthen the pedal after all. It actually broke higher & closer to the pivot point than I thought (see picture below). So I figured I wouldn't waste my time with this.

clutch_pedal_6.jpg

You don't need to remove the clutch master cylinder to do this job. It is easier to remove the three steering column support bolts like the instructions say. Make sure to leave it connected to the steering shaft. This will allow the column to move down enough to provide enough space to get the clutch pedal bracket off & back on the clutch master cylinder pushrod and get the clutch switches in place and connected. If possible, tighten the nut above the pushrod before attaching the pushrod to the pedal. Tightening this nut is nearly impossbile with the pushrod already in place.

Be sure to get the clutch pedal switches (2005-2007 Ions have two) in place and plugged in before bolting things back together too because you will not be able to reach up and get them placed correctly and connected once the clutch pedal and steering column is fastened in place.

The 2005-2007 Ions have a clutch pedal position switch located at the top which ends the cruise control session when the pedal is pressed, just like tapping the brake pedal would do. For anyone who has a 2005-2007 manual transmission Ion and the cruise control doesn't work, this switch is probably bad.

[ruley73]

I thought I'd add that the clutch pedal assembly is Saturn p/n 15274047 and is only used on the Ion (Cobalt/G5/HHR use different parts). I ordered it on eBay for about $132 with free shipping. The seller was a GM dealership in Texas. I ordered it early on Monday and got it on Thursday. The local Chevy stealership (which is also a Saturn repair center) actually had it in stock but wanted GM's MSRP of $192 for it. I wasn't able to fix it until the weekend anyways so there was not point in spending $60+ to get it right away.

Here are the bolt sizes for the sockets you will need:

7mm - dash trim panel screws)
10mm - clutch pedal mounting nuts
13mm - steering column bolts, clutch pedal pivot nut
15mm - driver's seat mounting bolts (only torque these to 37 ft-lbs)

[kevin.st56]

I had the same thing happened to me, a year ago...not fun. thankfully the Chevy deal that was nearby had the pedals in stock, but for about 200 bucks. its wasn't hard to replace, part from the fact that extra section on the top, I had to chop off since I couldn't install it without removing the master cylinder (which was replace a month prior, talk about a day job). my only problem is that the ball tip on the end of the push rod for the master cylinder was slightly worn out and couldn't be held by the clip on the pedal, so I looped a couple of zip ties and tighten them enough where it'll stop where its supposed to stop

[thorpendragon]

I had to replace my clutch pedal on my 05 ion coup. It was a big pain in the butt and my friend came up with this. You can leave the old bracket in and just zip tie the spring to the new pedal. Then swap the old pedal for the new. It's no cake walk but it makes things easier.

[kevin.st56]

the pedal can be replaced without removing the master cylinder, but you have to maneuver it around to be able to get it out.
any new pedal will have that extra arm sticking out the top, which makes it nearly impossible to install with the master cyl left on.
a simple solution is to use a hack saw to remove the extra arm, and then you can reinstall it.

I had to use a zip tie to limit the travel of my pedal tho, since for whatever reason the pedal will not hold onto the master cyl ball (it was about a week old at the time), and will spring off, even with the white clip in place.

[ruley73]

Originally Posted by kevin.st56

the pedal can be replaced without removing the master cylinder, but you have to maneuver it around to be able to get it out.
any new pedal will have that extra arm sticking out the top, which makes it nearly impossible to install with the master cyl left on.
a simple solution is to use a hack saw to remove the extra arm, and then you can reinstall it.

I had to use a zip tie to limit the travel of my pedal tho, since for whatever reason the pedal will not hold onto the master cyl ball (it was about a week old at the time), and will spring off, even with the white clip in place.

This is only a viable idea for 2003-2004 Ions which don't use the upper clutch switch. You definitely don't want to do this if installing in a 2005-2007 Ion.

[arfstrom]

Originally Posted by kevin.st56

the pedal can be replaced without removing the master cylinder, but you have to maneuver it around to be able to get it out.
any new pedal will have that extra arm sticking out the top, which makes it nearly impossible to install with the master cyl left on.
a simple solution is to use a hack saw to remove the extra arm, and then you can reinstall it.

I had to use a zip tie to limit the travel of my pedal tho, since for whatever reason the pedal will not hold onto the master cyl ball (it was about a week old at the time), and will spring off, even with the white clip in place.

That same thing happened with me. except it was -25 degrees, and 2 weeks from christmas. Wish I would have figured out the driver chair. I have a 2004 ION3, and I did just what you sugested I removed the top of the clutch with a hacksaw. I replacedSo it took it a little bit longer to manually do it. (mighy pump) or something like that. I had previouslly replaced the bushing, so when I got the new master cylinder, I have yet to have a problem with the ball slipping out. (It was really easy) Just getting al the stuff away from the fire wall. (I did a clutch job this spring. which required all that stuff to be away from the fire wall.)

What I did that was similiar to what you did, is the that I filled the cavity between the ball, and the end of the hollow of the clutch pedal, with rubber sink faucts orings. I had clipped it with a wire cutter, and filled in the hole, then used initially plasitic zip ties, then upgraded to a hose clamp or two. and crosed them at the point of the shaft was.

[J-ME]

Originally Posted by ruley73

Clutch Pedal Replacement

Removal Procedure

1. Remove the clutch pedal retainer from the front of the clutch pedal assembly.
2. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch (2) from the clutch bracket.
3. Remove the clutch pedal pivot nut.
.

Can you PLEASE explain how you were able to remove the clutch pedal pivot nut?
I need to replace my clutch pedal position switch as my cruise hasn't worked in 2 years, but CANNOT for the life of me remove the clutch pedal pivot nut. It's hard enough as it is to even get a wrench onto the nut, but when doing so, the other end of the pivot shaft (the part that in theory should have a bolt head, is just smooth as you show in your pictures.) So that part just keeps spinning and the nut never loosens.

ANY ADVICE WILL BE SOO GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

[ruley73]

Originally Posted by J-ME

Can you PLEASE explain how you were able to remove the clutch pedal pivot nut?
I need to replace my clutch pedal position switch as my cruise hasn't worked in 2 years, but CANNOT for the life of me remove the clutch pedal pivot nut. It's hard enough as it is to even get a wrench onto the nut, but when doing so, the other end of the pivot shaft (the part that in theory should have a bolt head, is just smooth as you show in your pictures.) So that part just keeps spinning and the nut never loosens.

ANY ADVICE WILL BE SOO GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

You're mistaken. That bolt can't move because it's been cut into a D shape. The corresponding holes in the pedal bracket are also D-shaped which prevents the bolt from turning. The torque spec on that nut is really low so I doubt you've rounded the flat spots.

This picture from my previous post is a bit blurry, but you can see what I'm talking about if you look closely.



I hate to break it you, but your car won't have the switch that disengages cruise. Only 2005-2007 Ions have the clutch pedal position switch (the upper one). If you can start your car, there's nothing wrong with the clutch pedal start switch (the lower one). There's something else wrong if your cruise won't work.

Also, ratcheting wrenches are lifesavers when replacing the clutch pedal.

[ruley73]

Originally Posted by ruley73

You're mistaken. That bolt can't move because it's been cut into a D shape. The corresponding holes in the pedal bracket are also D-shaped which prevents the bolt from turning. The torque spec on that nut is really low so I doubt you've rounded the flat spots.

This picture from my previous post is a bit blurry, but you can see what I'm talking about if you look closely.



I hate to break it you, but your car won't have the switch that disengages cruise. Only 2005-2007 Ions have the clutch pedal position switch (the upper one). If you can start your car, there's nothing wrong with the clutch pedal start switch (the lower one). There's something else wrong if your cruise won't work.

Also, ratcheting wrenches are lifesavers when replacing the clutch pedal.

J-ME: Disregard the part in bold. I was looking at the wrong post which stated they had a 2004 Ion. I'm assuming yours is a 2005-2007. I didn't catch this until after 15 minutes had passed so I couldn't edit my post. Sorry for the oversight.

[2006 ion2]

Fyi, only the 07 2.2s have this 2nd switch. It's the switch that later became the nls/launch mode switch for the Cobalt ss/tc, best I can tell from my research. All other 2.2s should have only one switch.

[kevin.st56]

Originally Posted by J-ME

Can you PLEASE explain how you were able to remove the clutch pedal pivot nut?
I need to replace my clutch pedal position switch as my cruise hasn't worked in 2 years, but CANNOT for the life of me remove the clutch pedal pivot nut. It's hard enough as it is to even get a wrench onto the nut, but when doing so, the other end of the pivot shaft (the part that in theory should have a bolt head, is just smooth as you show in your pictures.) So that part just keeps spinning and the nut never loosens.

ANY ADVICE WILL BE SOO GREATLY APPRECIATED!!

if cruise isn't working, theres a few other things to check.
-there are switches that can disengage the cruise by pressing them, which are the clutch start switch, and brake light switch.
=the clutch switch, if the car only started by pressing it, then that switch is good.
=The brake light switch, obviously if you press the pedal, and the brake lights turn on, then its good.
-Other things to check are burnt brake light bulbs (sides, and the center high ones), or blown fuses.
-Sometimes, having all LED brake lights, including center highs, without load resistors is known to cause cruise not to work.
-Also make sure the light on the cruise power button lights up when pressing the button.
-If everything checks out, then check loose connectors for the cruise module, check for damaged wiring, or lastly, a bad cruise module.

[J-ME]

Originally Posted by kevin.st56

if cruise isn't working, theres a few other things to check.
-there are switches that can disengage the cruise by pressing them, which are the clutch start switch, and brake light switch.
=the clutch switch, if the car only started by pressing it, then that switch is good.
=The brake light switch, obviously if you press the pedal, and the brake lights turn on, then its good.
-Other things to check are burnt brake light bulbs (sides, and the center high ones), or blown fuses.
-Sometimes, having all LED brake lights, including center highs, without load resistors is known to cause cruise not to work.
-Also make sure the light on the cruise power button lights up when pressing the button.
-If everything checks out, then check loose connectors for the cruise module, check for damaged wiring, or lastly, a bad cruise module.

Kevin thank you very much for taking the time to gives me those suggestions. I've ruled out most of those by either testing, or replacing questions parts and switches. I'm 98% it's the clutch pedal position switch bc when I used to pull the pedal up towards me, the cruise would engage until i would let go of the pedal and it would disengage.
Also, I once brought it to chevy asking about my cruise control. Although they didn't tell me the specifics of what was causing the problem, they did tell me that $650 would get my cruise working again. They mentioned it consisted of replacing the clutch pedal. I'm imagine the switch as well.

One thing I did notice is that the top portion of the clutch pedal, the part that touches the position switch, has some thickness to it. Mine seems to have been worn down from putting 112K miles on it. Do you think I need to add a plastic plate to it? or just adjust the clutch pedal position switch?

[J-ME]

Originally Posted by ruley73

You're mistaken. That bolt can't move because it's been cut into a D shape. The corresponding holes in the pedal bracket are also D-shaped which prevents the bolt from turning. The torque spec on that nut is really low so I doubt you've rounded the flat spots.

This picture from my previous post is a bit blurry, but you can see what I'm talking about if you look closely.


I hate to break it you, but your car won't have the switch that disengages cruise. Only 2005-2007 Ions have the clutch pedal position switch (the upper one). If you can start your car, there's nothing wrong with the clutch pedal start switch (the lower one). There's something else wrong if your cruise won't work.

Also, ratcheting wrenches are lifesavers when replacing the clutch pedal.

First off thanks very much for taking the time to reply and attach a picture.
So you're saying the entire bolt itself is D shaped?? something is odd because the backside of the "bolt head location" was definitely turning. We kept turning the nut and it did nothing. FYI I have a 2006 cobalt SS s/c and it 100% has a clutch pedal position switch ( as you mentioned in your followup post)

What type of wrench or tool did you use to get the pivot nut off?
A picture or link would be forever appreciate!! I YEARN FOR CRUISE CONTROL!!

[ruley73]

Originally Posted by J-ME

First off thanks very much for taking the time to reply and attach a picture.
So you're saying the entire bolt itself is D shaped?? something is odd because the backside of the "bolt head location" was definitely turning. We kept turning the nut and it did nothing. FYI I have a 2006 cobalt SS s/c and it 100% has a clutch pedal position switch ( as you mentioned in your followup post)

What type of wrench or tool did you use to get the pivot nut off?
A picture or link would be forever appreciate!! I YEARN FOR CRUISE CONTROL!!

I don't recall the exact size (I think it was 1/2" or 13mm ?), but I didn't use anything special for the pivot nut. A regular 3/8" drive ratchet is what I remember using, but it's been over two years ago since I replaced the pedal so I can't say for sure. Again, this nut is not very tight. The torque spec is only 89 inch lbs or just over 7 ft lbs.

I certainly remember that the tough ones are the two nuts that attach the metal bracket to the firewall. It is nearly impossible to tighten/loosen these without a 10mm ratcheting wrench. I used one similar to this. You'll want to make sure it is angled/offset and not perfectly flat.

[J-ME]

Originally Posted by ruley73

I got the new clutch pedal installed last night. It took about 3 hours with a bit of help from my brother while taking our time with a couple breaks. Removing the driver's seat is easy and makes laying down to work on it a lot more tolerable.

I decided not to strengthen the pedal after all. It actually broke higher & closer to the pivot point than I thought (see picture below). So I figured I wouldn't waste my time with this.

Attachment 36817

You don't need to remove the clutch master cylinder to do this job. It is easier to remove the three steering column support bolts like the instructions say. Make sure to leave it connected to the steering shaft. This will allow the column to move down enough to provide enough space to get the clutch pedal bracket off & back on the clutch master cylinder pushrod and get the clutch switches in place and connected. If possible, tighten the nut above the pushrod before attaching the pushrod to the pedal. Tightening this nut is nearly impossbile with the pushrod already in place.

Be sure to get the clutch pedal switches (2005-2007 Ions have two) in place and plugged in before bolting things back together too because you will not be able to reach up and get them placed correctly and connected once the clutch pedal and steering column is fastened in place.

The 2005-2007 Ions have a clutch pedal position switch located at the top which ends the cruise control session when the pedal is pressed, just like tapping the brake pedal would do. For anyone who has a 2005-2007 manual transmission Ion and the cruise control doesn't work, this switch is probably bad.

URGENT!!!
Ruley, I would REALLY appreciate if you had 5 minutes of your time to offer me on the phone. I removed the pivot nut finally, started getting the parts out, but cannot manage to remove the bracket. You mentioned needing to remove the steering column support bolts, but i'm looking at alldatadiy, and cannot figure out which bolts those are. Also, not sure if i need to remove the bolt that attached the steering column to the shaft (the one w/ the knurling/ teeth on it).
I discovered that my clutch spring was snapped for who knows how long, so now i need a new clutch pedal. but still cannot manage to remove the metal bracket. I removed the pedal itself and all necessary bolts.
PLEASE HELP!!!
PM me your phone number and i will be forever grateful.
Car is in parts. even if i had the replacement clutch pedal i wouldn't be able to install it. AND I'm supposed to take a ski trip to tremblant on wednesday -_-

[ruley73]

Originally Posted by J-ME

URGENT!!!
Ruley, I would REALLY appreciate if you had 5 minutes of your time to offer me on the phone. I removed the pivot nut finally, started getting the parts out, but cannot manage to remove the bracket. You mentioned needing to remove the steering column support bolts, but i'm looking at alldatadiy, and cannot figure out which bolts those are. Also, not sure if i need to remove the bolt that attached the steering column to the shaft (the one w/ the knurling/ teeth on it).
I discovered that my clutch spring was snapped for who knows how long, so now i need a new clutch pedal. but still cannot manage to remove the metal bracket. I removed the pedal itself and all necessary bolts.
PLEASE HELP!!!
PM me your phone number and i will be forever grateful.
Car is in parts. even if i had the replacement clutch pedal i wouldn't be able to install it. AND I'm supposed to take a ski trip to tremblant on wednesday -_-

I've attached a picture that should help. There are three mounting bolts for the steering column and I recall having a difficult time finding them myself. The top one is the long pivot bolt and is installed horizontally. The other two are much shorter and install from the bottom. Remove the two bottom bolts first and have a buddy hold the column up when you remove/install the top bolt. The column is pretty heavy due to the power assist motor so this is very difficult to do alone.

Removing the pinch nut for the intermittent shaft/joint is not necessary.

If you haven't done so already, removing the driver's seat will make the job a lot more comfortable and removing the storage pockets from the dash make accessing things much easier

Be sure not to tighten the top steering column bolt too tight. Your steering column won't move freely for tilt adjustment if you do.

2003-2007_Saturn_Ion_Steering_Column_mounting.jpg