2003 Saturn ion Starter slow click issue

[Happierfeet]

I've got this issue about 4 month ago intermittent until recently. Basically a slow click coming from starter when trying to start the car. (Videos attached at bottom) at first it would happen then the car would sit for like 30 mins then it would start back up no issues. This happen about 4 times before one day in the morning it showed same symptoms I let it sit then same issues. Next day same, etc. I decided to take out the starter because I thought maybe the starter died and it just kicking out the solenoid while not spinning the starter. I

took it to AutoZone they had an issue getting to started at first then it started and tested good on their end. So I brought it home installed it back in and same issue. I took it out once more, benched tested it, put it back in and somehow stared working again in the car. Started 5 times in a row.

My thinking is that since the starter is original maybe the brushes landed on a bad spot and the starter is on its way out. I ordered a new one on rock auto and my girlfriend drove the car to and from work for about 2 weeks still non-issue. Got the new starter and went to replace it. After replacing it the issue came right back, no cat won't start.

I was able to get the car started by jumping the B and S terminal on the starter while car was in run position. (I tried showing that in video attached but I killed the battery doing so lol) I tried a voltage drop from positive battery side to starter B terminal and from positive battery to s terminal too. Look like there is a big drop between S and battery but not sure if I interpreted it correctly.
I've also swapped around relays, tried starting in neutral

Anyone else have experience with this weird issue. No sure what else to check

https://imgur.com/a/QH23jSf link to videos I took on voltage drop and starting with the screwdriver

[Happierfeet]

https://imgur.com/a/isfALZ4
My posted link doesn't have audio, he's one with it

[fdryer]

Did you check main power cables - battery positive and two battery negative cables on both ends for corrosion, loose connections? Presuming your Ion uses a trunk mounted battery, the red cable is very long, from battery to engine fuse box and starter. Battery negative; cable to chassis and chassis to engine block. Examine all main battery cables for severe corrosion, dried battery acid as a blue white powder around battery terminals. If found, a warm water solution with baking soda and toothbrush will quickly dissolve and neutralize powdery deposits. Water rinse. Do not allow this solution into the battery cells as it will kill the battery by neutralizing battery acid. Once cleaned, examine connections for looseness, secure any for best power connections. Examine all main power connections. In the engine bay, the battery red cable connects to the REMOTE START terminal next to the main fuse box. Examine this connection for looseness as this feeds battery positive to the starter. Examine main chassis and engine ground connections for similar corrosion and loose connections.

Starter issues are usually related to either a worn out starter or poor electrical connections (wire, terminations, chafing insulation, etc). It's easier to examine all main power connections and battery before troubleshooting a starter issue. Starters do not announce their demise nor do they have 'flat spots' from everyday use. The brushes wear evenly until they wear down, making intermittent electrical contact, misleading many into presuming flat spots occurred. The only way to prove flat spotting? Complete disassembly to examine the armature and brushes. Bench or store testing will never reveal flat spotting or a worn out starter as they work fine then don't. Mileage, years of use, number of starting cycles per day are some criteria in determining when a starter wears out.

If a battery is over 4yrs old, have it tested by a store capable of lead testing whether in car or bench. A battery showing 12.5v is not an indication of a good battery. A load test applies a large electrical load equivalent to staring current (anywhere from 75-300 amps) for a timed cycle then voltage measured to see if a battery recovers, determining its capacity. Eliminate battery and connection issues first before determining if the starter is worn out.

[Phyzik sl2]

Any update on your issue? I have a 04 sedan that has the same exact issue. I'm thinking its either an uncommon relay issue, neutral safety switch or something in the ignition switch.