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Old 09-05-2016, 07:06 PM   #61
johnny95sl2
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Default Re: and so it begins....

You can get the engine out without removing any of that stuff

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Old 09-05-2016, 09:37 PM   #62
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
Getting back to this today and working under the car to remove the starter and alternator.

Starter went fine but I'm having an issue getting the alternator out. I've removed all connections and the top and lower bolt & nut and from what I've seen in videos it should just drop out. I can't get it to move more than a 1/4 inch and it is as if the long bottom bolt is still there. I can't figure out what is holding it in.

There looks to be a bushing on the bolt head side; do you have to pry it out first before it will drop? Any insight that would help would be appreciated.
Never mind. I had to use a pry to work it off the lower mounts. It was on there good and tight and fought me to the end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny95sl2 View Post
You can get the engine out without removing any of that stuff
This applies to removing engine and manual transmission together? I haven't come across any write-ups to that effect.

They have to come off anyways as I'm favoring the components of the blown engine. If I can install them while the engine is out then that would definitely be favorable than working under the car.

...
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Past Saturns
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:17 AM   #63
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Default Re: and so it begins....

When dealing with the power steering pump, can I unbolt if from the engine and put it aside leaving the lines attached or do I need to disconnect it and remove? Will it get in the way?

Engine removal video indicates complete removal but Richpin states it can be left on too if preferred.

If i disconnect the hoses then when I move the car I will empty the fluid from the steering gear. LowSaturn warns against using the steering while the lines are disconnected.

I don't have a pulley puller and wondering if I should go through the effort to acquire/borrow one on not. If I can leave the pulley and lines on, unbolt the pump and put it aside this would be favourable.

...
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Past Saturns
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1992 SL2 MT (5y)

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Old 09-16-2016, 09:27 AM   #64
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Default Re: and so it begins....

I detached the power steering pump last evening and it looks like I can push it off to the side and lift the engine and transmission out together. Chime in now if you know it will create an issue for me!

I'm going to pick up the shop lift tonight and aim to pull the engine/trans out over the weekend as a unit. Following that I will push the car out of the garage and bring in the other to remove its engine/trans and automatic bits.

Still looking for instructions from OldNuc on how to deal with the clutch safety switch. I have the PCM out and the engine harness pulled through to come out with the engine.

...
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2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
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1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

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Old 09-16-2016, 12:58 PM   #65
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Once the hood is off fold up a bath towel, release the hose clamp on the rack tube and set the pump up on the windshield. You will hit it with the engine if it is just in front. Removing radiator and setting a piece of 3/8 ply in front of condenser is recommended. Beware that the engine must tip slightly forward or you will bust the MC reservoir as you begin to tilt it to continue lifting. Need load leveler and hoist. This is a lift and tilt multi-step pull. watch the exhaust as it will catch on the block flange.

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Old 09-18-2016, 07:13 AM   #66
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Once the hood is off fold up a bath towel, release the hose clamp on the rack tube and set the pump up on the windshield. You will hit it with the engine if it is just in front. Removing radiator and setting a piece of 3/8 ply in front of condenser is recommended. Beware that the engine must tip slightly forward or you will bust the MC reservoir as you begin to tilt it to continue lifting. Need load leveler and hoist. This is a lift and tilt multi-step pull. watch the exhaust as it will catch on the block flange.
Good engine is out of the donor car and I'm working on removing the bad engine from the silver 99 now.

I ended up heeding your advice on the power steering pump. I figured it was a spare anyways. I wired it into the corner, took my time and it didn't give me any issues. I did remove the radiator but I kind of think it would have been okay if I didn't. I guess better safe than sorry.

I did catch the exhaust flange even though I tried my best not to. I had to lower the engine and push it to the transmission side to resolve.

I also snagged both of the shift cables. They fell into the top shift cable yolk at some point and I didn't catch it. I had to lower the engine again and detach them from the other end to release the tension. Hopefully they'll be okay. Visually they don't look damaged.

My mechanic loaned me an engine lift and I acquired a engine leveler for this job. My mechanic didn't have one and he poo poo'd the idea of using one. It was helpful for sure.

...
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Past Saturns
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1992 SL2 MT (5y)

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Old 09-18-2016, 07:19 AM   #67
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Default Re: and so it begins....

When converting automatic to manual how do you deal with.
  1. Blocking unused transmission lines on the radiator. The radiator on the 99 auto is in better shape than the 99 manual.
  2. Adding the clutch safety switch when using the manual PCM and engine wiring harness. I'd rather have it than do the bypass method.

...
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2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

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Old 09-18-2016, 09:18 AM   #68
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
When converting automatic to manual how do you deal with.
  1. Blocking unused transmission lines on the radiator. That is a closed loop so just ignore them. The radiator on the 99 auto is in better shape than the 99 manual.
  2. Adding the clutch safety switch when using the manual PCM and engine wiring harness. I'd rather have it than do the bypass method.
The neutral safety switch -2 purple wires in the 2 connector plug on the range switch is the manual interlock wiring. Look in my photo gallery and you will find the 3 ignition switch drawings and it shows the wire colors and pins, just splice the manual switch into the inside car wiring and cut and splice the 2 purple wires outside of the car. It is a simple series circuit between the ignition switch crank contact and the starter solenoid.

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Old 09-18-2016, 10:00 AM   #69
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
The neutral safety switch -2 purple wires in the 2 connector plug on the range switch is the manual interlock wiring. Look in my photo gallery and you will find the 3 ignition switch drawings and it shows the wire colors and pins, just splice the manual switch into the inside car wiring and cut and splice the 2 purple wires outside of the car. It is a simple series circuit between the ignition switch crank contact and the starter solenoid.
Thanks OldNuc!

Regarding the closed loop trans lines.... So rather than struggling to disconnect the lines can I just cut them then?

...
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2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 09-18-2016, 10:11 AM   #70
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
Thanks OldNuc!

Regarding the closed loop trans lines.... So rather than struggling to disconnect the lines can I just cut them then?
Yes, just shear off at the hose and leave the rest. All aftermarket rads come with the trans cooler now and they have poly tube covers but that is to keep dirt out of the auto trans. Be gentle cutting of as the radiator seal tends to fail around those fittings easily.

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Old 09-20-2016, 07:59 AM   #71
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
The neutral safety switch -2 purple wires in the 2 connector plug on the range switch is the manual interlock wiring. Look in my photo gallery and you will find the 3 ignition switch drawings and it shows the wire colors and pins, just splice the manual switch into the inside car wiring and cut and splice the 2 purple wires outside of the car. It is a simple series circuit between the ignition switch crank contact and the starter solenoid.
If I'm moving the MT wiring harness over then the 2 purple wires on outside should already be taken care of. Correct?

On the inside then I need to find the yellow wire that initiates from pin F8 and terminates at A2 on the starter relay and splice in the Clutch Start Switch. Correct? I suppose I could extract the wire with pins out of the donor car wiring harness and transplant. I haven't looked at the physical wiring yet so I'm not too sure how involved that is.

Moving the manual transmission engine wire harness over, if I do nothing on the inside of the car, the car should start without engaging the clutch. Correct?

I have attached the corresponding start circuit diagram and marked it up.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Starting circuit.JPG (113.0 KB, 0 views)

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

Last edited by trottida; 09-20-2016 at 08:07 AM..

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Old 09-24-2016, 07:55 PM   #72
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Second engine and automatic transmission is out. No issues other then I snapped the lower right bolt on the coil mount. It's broke about a quarter inch out from the bell housing. No issue for me though since I'm swapping in a manual transmission.

Oldnuc, did you see the post below? Just clarifying a few things.

...
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2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

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Old 09-25-2016, 11:00 AM   #73
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Default Re: and so it begins....

What is the trick to removing the clutch pedal pivot shaft? I removed the 15mm nut and the shaft isn't moving. I expected it to slide out the opposite side. I can't find any information on this part of the conversion. Help!

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 09-25-2016, 11:08 AM   #74
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Pedal slides off of shaft as it is being held by brake pedal.

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Old 09-25-2016, 11:15 AM   #75
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Pedal slides off of shaft as it is being held by brake pedal.
I have the clutch pedal off already - that was easy. I'm trying to remove the pivot shaft that the clutch pedal hangs from at the top to move it over to the automatic. It's about a 6 inch shaft threaded on the console side and held on with a 15 mm nut. The nut is removed and the shaft is not moving.

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 09-25-2016, 12:46 PM   #76
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Nut off on brake pedal side. Move shaft left and get key out of shaft and then slide left. There is a flange on the left side of the shaft that is pulled tight by the nut on the brake side. It all comes apart, both sides. looking for a good drawing of this. Take the nut off on the right side. Brake is on its own shaft. Note the anti rotate key.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg clutch-1.jpg (38.5 KB, 3 views)

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Old 09-26-2016, 07:50 AM   #77
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Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Nut off on brake pedal side. Move shaft left and get key out of shaft and then slide left. There is a flange on the left side of the shaft that is pulled tight by the nut on the brake side. It all comes apart, both sides. looking for a good drawing of this. Take the nut off on the right side. Brake is on its own shaft. Note the anti rotate key.
Wow, that was on there really tight; held in with friction. I noted that the shaft had flats in the center probably intended to hold the shaft from spinning while tightening the nut. I used the flats to rotate the shaft back and forth while pulling on the left of the shaft and was able to pull it enough to get a pry behind the flange. Once the pry was in then I kept turning and it finally let go.

That shaft is a solid piece as highlighted in the photo below.

Yesterday I moved the brake pedal, clutch pedal, shift cables and shift assembly over from the donor to the receiver. Moving the pedals over was a PITA. Lots of awkward positions working from above and below.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Clutch pedal pivot shaft.JPG (41.5 KB, 4 views)

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 09-26-2016, 08:05 AM   #78
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2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Oldnuc - A few questions for you.
  1. What do you do with the automatic shift lock out cable that goes from the automatic shift selector in the console to the ignition?
  2. What are the answers to my 3 questions in post 71 pertaining to the Clutch Safety Switch wiring?

Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
If I'm moving the MT wiring harness over then the 2 purple wires on outside should already be taken care of. Correct?

On the inside then I need to find the yellow wire that initiates from pin F8 and terminates at A2 on the starter relay and splice in the Clutch Start Switch. Correct? I suppose I could extract the wire with pins out of the donor car wiring harness and transplant. I haven't looked at the physical wiring yet so I'm not too sure how involved that is.

Moving the manual transmission engine wire harness over, if I do nothing on the inside of the car, the car should start without engaging the clutch. Correct?

I have attached the corresponding start circuit diagram and marked it up.

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 09-26-2016, 12:01 PM   #79
OldNuc
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Far Southwestern Iowa
Posts: 66,683
 

1998 SC2
Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
Oldnuc - A few questions for you.
  1. What do you do with the automatic shift lock out cable that goes from the automatic shift selector in the console to the ignition? Either leave it lay or pull the lock cylinder and completely remove it. I would completely remove it
  2. What are the answers to my 3 questions in post 71 pertaining to the Clutch Safety Switch wiring? See below
Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
If I'm moving the MT wiring harness over then the 2 purple wires on outside should already be taken care of. Correct?
Yes, gone. One wire from the clutch switch does pass through the firewall to the starter and may not be in the manual harness though so watch for this.

On the inside then I need to find the yellow wire that initiates from pin F8 and terminates at A2 on the starter relay and splice in the Clutch Start Switch. Correct? I suppose I could extract the wire with pins out of the donor car wiring harness and transplant. I haven't looked at the physical wiring yet so I'm not too sure how involved that is. The wire from that security relay is yellow in the automatic and that attaches to 1 side of the new safety switch.

Moving the manual transmission engine wire harness over, if I do nothing on the inside of the car, the car should start without engaging the clutch. Correct? Without some wiring to the starter it will not.

I have attached the corresponding start circuit diagram and marked it up.
I did not study the drawing but I will.
Basically you insert the new safety switch into the existing wiring inside the car that terminated at F8 in the UHJB. Do not pull this wire along with the auto loom as it should be in the I/P loom inside the car. The manual loom should have a purple wire at A8 brown connector in UHJB to the starter. The only modification is to make the auto in-car wiring look like the manual wiring. look at all of the schematic out to the starter.

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Old 09-28-2016, 09:20 AM   #80
trottida
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: North of North of Toronto, Northern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,653
 

1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Took the opportunity to wire brush some surface rust off the engine cradle, applied some rust converter and rattle can painted. I didn't want to go too deep into a complete strip and repaint; just enough to stave off rust for a few years.

I think I'm ready to drop the donor engine into the engine bay.

Thanks OldNuc for answering my questions. I may have more when I get back to working on the inside again.

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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