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Old 03-23-2012, 12:19 AM   #21
td1238
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Default Re: pressing bearings

I have pressed wheel bearings myself using a large vice and various sized metal pipes. It's a PITA, but it can be done.

The worst was my '99 Saturn. The outer race got stuck on the hub, and had to be worked loose with a chisel. Worked back and forth under it, and even torched it to get it hot, until it came off.

The old bearings can be hammered out with a suitable punch or drift (king pin), by alternating sides (180 degree blows), but this takes a long time and doesn't always work. Still, every wheel bearing I've replaced, except my Saturn's, was done this way. Hammered out the old. Pressed in the new using a large vice.

...So just saying that you can do this yourself, but it's not easy. New bearings MUST be pressed in. Never ever hammer a bearing that you intend to use. Hammering will dent the parts, which will cause destruction in short order.

As for doing both sides at the same time, well you can, but ball bearings don't usually fail immediately. They get a little noisy, and a little more, and in that time you have plenty of warning. I did the left front on my '99 SL2. The right front is still original, and about 3/4 of a year later it still sounds fine. I will replace it when it starts to fail. I have also considered finding a way to inject grease, though so far I can't think of one. I'm probably going to take the lazy way and just wait for it to fail.

Last edited by td1238; 03-23-2012 at 12:27 AM..

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Old 03-23-2012, 07:00 AM   #22
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Default Re: pressing bearings

I'm not a fan of trying to press these bearing in at all. The split inner race makes it way too easy to damage the bearing.

When I installed mine I heated the knuckle with a propane torch. I had put the bearing in the deep freeze the night before so it was good and cold. I heated the knuckle until 250-300 degrees (estimated). Bearing dropped in.

Once the bearing was warmed up I took the hub out of the freezer and it dropped in about half way. Used the axle/nut to pull it in the rest of the way.

Worked great, have 50-60k on it and no issues.

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Old 03-23-2012, 10:10 AM   #23
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Sounds like a very good idea. That is also the way some cylinder sleeves are installed, and it's how locomotive 'tires' are replaced.

As far as pressing bearings in is concerned, the pressing forces into the knuckle should ideally only be applied through the outer race. This is done either with a suitably sized pipe, or the shell of an old bearing of the same size. Force should not be driven through the balls (lol, I know....). Then, once the bearing is in the knuckle, use a suitably sized pipe that matches the diameter of the inner races, and drive the inner races onto the hub.

...But the heating ideal sounds good, too. It isn't likely with most torches, but be sure not to heat the metal to the point that its temper changes (metal glows or discolors). 200 degrees is usually enough to create enough expansion without destroying temper.

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Old 03-26-2012, 03:02 PM   #24
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Default Re: pressing bearings

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Originally Posted by td1238 View Post
...But the heating ideal sounds good, too. It isn't likely with most torches, but be sure not to heat the metal to the point that its temper changes (metal glows or discolors). 200 degrees is usually enough to create enough expansion without destroying temper.
You'd have to get it way hot to alter the temper (if it has any) or of the other mechanical properties. Most require temps in the near 1,000 range.

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Old 04-13-2012, 09:06 AM   #25
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Just an update for anyone whos curious. I removed and pressed in new bearings without any real issues considering it was my first time doing it.

Removed the hub with a slide hammer, then used various large sized sockets to press out the bearing... First the inner race came out and i was left with the outer race stuck in the knuckle but was able to get it out with the press.

Installation was pretty easy, and to whoever asked... After pressing in the bearing i did use a large socket to support the outer race of the bearing when pressing in the hub. I have a large socket set and i can't recall the size but one socket was the perfect size to support the bearing outer race.

Even though i appreciate the advice, taking the knuckles to a shop here really isn't an option. In the US your automotive service charges actually seem reasonable. Best price i found to R&R the hub and bearing was $150 a side. I'd rather spend that money on a press.

While doing the work i found one of my ball joints was bad, so i went to swap the LCA... The LCA to frame bolt was rusted in the bushing sleeve. Pounded on it with an air chisel for a few hours and it wouldn't budge. Eventually had to cut it out with a torch.

Had i gone to a garage and done all of this, the bill for that work would have easily pushed over $1000. This past week I've done all around brakes ( + wifes Vue), bearings + hubs, and LCA's for $434.

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Old 04-13-2012, 09:27 AM   #26
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Cool Re: pressing bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by td1238 View Post
I have also considered finding a way to inject grease, though so far I can't think of one. I'm probably going to take the lazy way and just wait for it to fail.
There has to be a way to do this. Isn't there a place we could drill a hole and screw in a zurk?

It is so annoying that bearings cannot be greased like old cars could, I grease the bearings on older cars avery few years, never have to replace them.

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Old 04-13-2012, 09:59 AM   #27
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Default Re: pressing bearings

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Originally Posted by 1.9 sohc View Post
There has to be a way to do this. Isn't there a place we could drill a hole and screw in a zurk?

It is so annoying that bearings cannot be greased like old cars could, I grease the bearings on older cars avery few years, never have to replace them.
http://www.gemplers.com/product/1731...-Flexible-Line

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Old 04-13-2012, 10:04 AM   #28
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevo420 View Post
. In the US your automotive service charges actually seem reasonable. Best price i found to R&R the hub and bearing was $150 a side.
100 worth of taxes and 50 for the labour.

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Old 04-13-2012, 12:24 PM   #29
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Why does this look like a bolt on assembly?

You donít just bolt this on?

TIMKEN Part # 512002 with ABS $85.89
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1118179

TIMKEN Part # 512000 non ABS $51.89
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1119700

both found here:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

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Old 04-13-2012, 12:59 PM   #30
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Those are for the rear. Yes, they just bolt on.

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Old 04-13-2012, 01:39 PM   #31
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevo420 View Post
Oh, and I've seen people have used this from HF

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

and i found the same thing here at a 'discount' tool supplier... $230 CAD. FML
I wish that kit would come with details instructions.

...
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:30 PM   #32
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Default Re: pressing bearings

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Originally Posted by kevo420 View Post
Hi,

One of my wheel bearings is kaput. Local shops are asking upwards of $700 parts and labor to do both sides...

I figure for that money i can buy the parts, a shop press and still come out ahead.

Looking at alldata and some information I've found here it seems that when pressing in the new bearing and hub that its important how everything is supported.

Basically what I'm looking for is something like a step by step for the actual process of pressing in the new bearings.

Am i going to require any special accessories to make sure everything is properly supported? and will a 12 ton press be enough?

TIA


To press in new bearings 12 ton should be enough. But if its similar to the bearing on the front of my 96 SC2, pressing didn't seam like the best option.
Due to the thin outer wall on that bearing, even the right sized die caused the race to crack. I believe that in that model during manufacuring they actually used liquid nitrogen to freeze the bearings so they could drop into the steering knuckle. To finish the job in time i had to press the bearing in by the inner race (not good for long life, always always press by outer race if possible).

If i were to redo it, I would throw the bearing in the freezer the day before and heating the knuckle up to the lowest temp possible to load it. I have read heating the steering knuckle up to 400 degrees F you can just drop the bearing in. But if the bearing is put in freezer, temp might be able to be lowered in oven.

Better option yet is i heard of a site that sells the whole knuckle with a new bearing pressed in it. I understand not bringing in the shop, but i'm an avid mechanic on weekends and it took me 9 hours with lift, torch, press and professional tools. I had to actually torch the snap ring due to it being rusted in just to break it loose. before torching i removed the abs sensor and the metalic plug that went into the steering knuckle broke off so now abs/trac control don't work.

To sum up, if its the same design as my car, I don't believe your supposed to press it in due to the design of the outer race and the tight fit. The job was easy to get the knuckle off, after that it turns into a red headed step child. Even if you do it the way i suggest (i'm sure i will be disputed on here) you will still need press to get the old 1 out and the hub in the new 1, which is why i would suggest trying to find places with a knuckle that has new bearing pressed in it.

If you still insist on pressing the bearing in, make sure the die is just samller than the ID of what your pressing into but pressing on outer race (pressing on inner race could cause surface damage on inner race inside of bearing and drastically reduce bearing life). Set assembly so force will be provided in SAME direction the bearing will travel, misalignment=bad. Use thick oil or STP to help the bearing slide in easy. Ideally the bearing will slide in with constant pressure and not jump. Keep pressing until slightly more pressure is felt and stop. At that point bearing should be seated and can be locked in place.

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Old 04-17-2012, 12:02 PM   #33
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Default Re: pressing bearings

. . . this whole thread reminds of the story about a guy who complained about a $5000 bill from a doctor who just made one small incision on his hand to relieve some sort of pain that took less than 10 seconds to perform then the nurse did the rest of the work and cleanup . . . the doctor replied that the cost was for knowing WHERE to make the incision.

. . . for what it's worth, I press the new bearing in using the old one.

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Old 04-17-2012, 12:19 PM   #34
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Cool Re: pressing bearings

So can you really heat up the housing, freeze the bearing and drop it in? I mean everyone has an oven and a freezer.

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Old 04-17-2012, 02:00 PM   #35
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Maybe. They will press in easier but I don't think anyone has managed drop in yet. It is also very important to remember that once placed into the deep freeze the bearing assembly will be below the nil ductility transition temperature. It may break if you drop it just like a coffee cup.

If you actually clean and lightly polish the knuckle bore before attempting to press in the bearing it should go right into place.

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Old 04-17-2012, 02:13 PM   #36
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Default Re: pressing bearings

I wonder about it breaking because it is 30 degrees and the housing is 250? shock?

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Old 04-17-2012, 02:32 PM   #37
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Default Re: pressing bearings

no, that will be OK.

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Old 04-18-2012, 01:10 AM   #38
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue92 View Post

To inject the grease you will need to remove the axle from the bearing, remove the C clip, and then carefully remove the seal with a razor blade, but it should work. Considering how long the bearings last, if you refreshed the grease say ever 50-100K, the bearing most likely would last much longer. Replace the seal if it is damaged or hardened. Hardened seals and dried up grease cause the failure.

If you could use a fine diamond bit to drill a hole between the two outer race halves, then you could inject grease from a Zerk fitting mounted on the outside of the knuckle, lined up with this hole. If you did drill such a hole in the bearing, you'd want to thoroughly flush the bearing with gasoline to remove all metal particles. The metal is very hard. Good luck drilling.

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Old 06-01-2012, 06:29 PM   #39
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Default Re: pressing bearings

Does buying the the Bearing/Hub assembly instead of just the bearing, make the process any easier? Is a machine shop still required? Do I ask the machine shop to press the whole unit in as one piece, or is there some step-by-step process to put the bearing in first, then the hub or something?

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Old 06-01-2012, 07:37 PM   #40
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Default Re: pressing bearings

The bearing and hub come as separate parts and all the hate and discontent that is required for just bearing replacement is the same. replacing the hub along with the bearing is the recommended process.

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