SaturnFans.com
what's new (beta) - classifieds - forums - photos


Go Back   SaturnFans.com Forums > Models > Saturn S-Series > S-Series General
Register FAQ Members List Groups Calendar Chat Room Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-25-2018, 12:25 PM   #21
alordofchaos
Super Member
alordofchaos has much to be proud ofalordofchaos has much to be proud ofalordofchaos has much to be proud ofalordofchaos has much to be proud ofalordofchaos has much to be proud ofalordofchaos has much to be proud ofalordofchaos has much to be proud ofalordofchaos has much to be proud of
 
alordofchaos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Central MI
Posts: 11,772
 

2002 SC2
1998 SL2
Default Re: Coolant problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by floridasl22002 View Post
You have said you that you installed water pump and Tstat and know they are working. How do you?
He's got flow from the de-aeration line to the surge tank, showing coolant is flowing through that loop.

Quote:
1) Check ALL hoses in the whole system to ensure none have collapsed internally and therefore creating a block in flow. I have that happen to me ONCE.
Thought about a collapsed hose, but the overheating only happens occasionally . . . 3 times. The rest of the time, works fine (temp rises to 220, fan kicks on, drops down to 195, as shown by OBDII reader and temp gauge. I can't think of a situation that would cause intermittent hose collapsing, but it's possible

It sounds like the 3 times it overheated, the fan did not turn on (but turned on later) so could be an electrical problem.

Quote:
2) If all the hoses check out, then use a cooling system flush additive to clean out the crap from the whole system and give it a good flush after with clean water. That should ensure that your passageways are clean.
OP mentioned flushing earlier . . . I think the time has come to ask specifically what the procedure was.

Did you backflush the engine yourself - getting good flow out the other end?
Quote:
One way of checking to see if you air in the system is to turn on the heater. If you don't get hot air, then there is air. I can't comment specifically on the Satty system but I always was advised that when refilling and burping a system, to turn the heater to full to allow coolant to flow through that part. The Satty may be different, but for the sake of just turning it to heat, it's worth doing.
Saturn's are different

No need to turn on the heater inside. The way older cars worked, no coolant flowed through the heater core until you turned the heater on, and turning heater on full temp meant max flow of coolant.

In the Saturn, coolant is flowing through that heater loop whenever the engine is on and the water pump is pumping. Heat is controlled by flaps controlling airflow.

Air bubbles in the system are not a real concern. The Saturn cooling system is self-purging of air, as described above by fdryer. Any air bubbles will go to the highest point in the system, and as coolant flows those bubbles get pushed through the de-aeration line at the top of the firewall, where they get pushed into the surge tank. Any air in the system eventually ends up in that tank.

...
I'm not worthy to grovel in the shadow of Signmaster's wisdom

11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 124k DD
7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project
12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to alordofchaos's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help alordofchaos reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
alordofchaos is offline   Reply With Quote
SaturnFans.com Sponsored Links
Old 05-25-2018, 01:30 PM   #22
Saturn Night
Master Member
Saturn Night is a jewel in the roughSaturn Night is a jewel in the roughSaturn Night is a jewel in the roughSaturn Night is a jewel in the rough
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Leavittsburg, OH
Posts: 2,777

1995 SC2
Default Re: Coolant problem

Has anyone bothered with a compression test to rule out a blown head gasket or a cracked head?

The engine was over heated. The DOHC is prone to a head gasket crack behind the #4 cylinder water jacket, on the intake side of the block. Over heating the engine expands the molecules of the head and block, thus crushing the gasket. When it cools, everything contracts and you have a leaking gasket.

Compression gases are higher psi than coolant, thus continual air bubbles get into the system.

Idle the engine without the cap, and if you see constant bubbles in the reservoir, you have a cracked head or blown head gasket.

...
"What does a Saturn owner do, at the gas station?"

"He checks the gas, and fills the oil....."

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to Saturn Night's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help Saturn Night reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
Saturn Night is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 09:19 PM   #23
redguy45
Junior Member
redguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura about
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: washington
Posts: 15

2001 SL2
2000 SL2
Default Re: Coolant problem

Thanks again for all the replies and input, it's helpful to have people familiar with the specific system and I appreciate all of you for the help.

I got home and tried my ac and got nothing, I saw a richpin video that could help diagnose whether its the compressor, clutch or electrical problem. I'm not worried about having ac but the option of manually turning on the coolant fan sounds good to me.

There are no bubbles in the coolant and I only lose coolant through the reservoir when it over heats. Oil doesn't have anything but oil in it too so that's steering me away from a cracked head/gasket.

After that I checked the coolant level and it was still good, ran it for 14 minutes with the cap off and it reached 217 degrees and then the coolant backed up and spilled over the reservoir. As soon as it started to come out of the reservoir the fan kicked on. Now I am leaning towards the thermostat intermittently getting stuck because both hoses have pressure clamp to clamp and they are both the same temp. I feel like its possible that I was given a higher temp opening thermostat or something to cause the back up. If there's still daylight after it cools I'm going to remove it and boil it to see what temp it opens and closes at.

I slowly added water to the system so I didn't shock the block and ran it again cap off and gave it gas via throttle body. The water pump sucked it right down and didn't come back up right away after releasing the throttle.

I ran it for 20 minutes to see if it would boil over again and it did not and the fan came on as it should every time it was around 220 degrees.

Does the thermostat theory sound plausible? I've never had one stick intermittently but I could just have been lucky with everything I've driven and worked on so far.

The thermostat I put in was supposed to be a STANT 195 direct replacement.
I've trusted them in the past because They've never given me problems where I've seen other brands fail after a couple weeks.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to redguy45's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help redguy45 reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
redguy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 11:04 PM   #24
fdryer
Super Member
fdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond repute
 
fdryer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NYC
Posts: 40,855
 

2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Coolant problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by redguy45 View Post
....After that I checked the coolant level and it was still good, ran it for 14 minutes with the cap off and it reached 217 degrees and then the coolant backed up and spilled over the reservoir. As soon as it started to come out of the reservoir the fan kicked on.....I slowly added water to the system so I didn't shock the block and ran it again cap off and gave it gas via throttle body. The water pump sucked it right down and didn't come back up right away after releasing the throttle.

I ran it for 20 minutes to see if it would boil over again and it did not and the fan came on as it should every time it was around 220 degrees.

Does the thermostat theory sound plausible? I've never had one stick intermittently but I could just have been lucky with everything I've driven and worked on so far.

The thermostat I put in was supposed to be a STANT 195 direct replacement....
When coolant boiled out, refilled with water, level dropped when revving the engine, this may have burped the system of air stuck somewhere. This would explain why overheating didn't occur again after this with the fan turning on without boiling over. For whatever reason, you may have discovered an air pocket that refused normal purging by revving a little with cap of after letting the engine warm up.

Stant t-stats are usually excellent for reliability otherwise we'd hear about here or elsewhere.

Have you driven the car since burping the system?

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to fdryer's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help fdryer reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
fdryer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2018, 11:51 PM   #25
redguy45
Junior Member
redguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura about
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: washington
Posts: 15

2001 SL2
2000 SL2
Default Re: Coolant problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
When coolant boiled out, refilled with water, level dropped when revving the engine, this may have burped the system of air stuck somewhere. This would explain why overheating didn't occur again after this with the fan turning on without boiling over. For whatever reason, you may have discovered an air pocket that refused normal purging by revving a little with cap of after letting the engine warm up.

Stant t-stats are usually excellent for reliability otherwise we'd hear about here or elsewhere.

Have you driven the car since burping the system?
I just got back from taking my dog to the park in it. No issues but with the water being the main part of the mix in the system, that was the most stable I've seen my temp gauge rest. It was right below the halfway point and stuck within a few degrees of 190 on the obd reader.

I don't get this thing. Ill be driving it tomorrow more and it'll be hotter out so that will be a good go for it.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to redguy45's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help redguy45 reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
redguy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2018, 01:03 AM   #26
fdryer
Super Member
fdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond repute
 
fdryer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NYC
Posts: 40,855
 

2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Coolant problem

Water is the original coolant long before antifreeze was invented. The problem with water is corrosion. For your situation, diluting coolant with water is less expensive than watching it boil out and replacing with more antifreeze. Water doesn't change pressures as much as discovering an air pocket was resisting normal purging when a few blips of a warm engine with cap off seems to help with supposedly automatic purging. Just run the engine as is until you're satisfied boilovers are gone then think over how to remix coolant back to 50/50. It'll be needed for freezing winter temps.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to fdryer's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help fdryer reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
fdryer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2018, 01:13 AM   #27
redguy45
Junior Member
redguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura about
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: washington
Posts: 15

2001 SL2
2000 SL2
Default Re: Coolant problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
Water is the original coolant long before antifreeze was invented. The problem with water is corrosion. For your situation, diluting coolant with water is less expensive than watching it boil out and replacing with more antifreeze. Water doesn't change pressures as much as discovering an air pocket was resisting normal purging when a few blips of a warm engine with cap off seems to help with supposedly automatic purging. Just run the engine as is until you're satisfied boilovers are gone then think over how to remix coolant back to 50/50. It'll be needed for freezing winter temps.
Yeah, I'll have to wait and see how it goes. Thanks again for the input/advice.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to redguy45's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help redguy45 reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
redguy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2018, 01:34 PM   #28
floridasl22002
Senior Member
floridasl22002 is a splendid one to beholdfloridasl22002 is a splendid one to beholdfloridasl22002 is a splendid one to beholdfloridasl22002 is a splendid one to beholdfloridasl22002 is a splendid one to beholdfloridasl22002 is a splendid one to beholdfloridasl22002 is a splendid one to behold
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,232

2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
2002 SL2
Default Re: Coolant problem

I suggested in an earlier post to remove the Tstat and run it without it and see what happens.

It will take longer to warm up as all the coolants is flowing around the system rather than being retained in the engine till it gets to operating temp at which point the Tstat opens up, allowing all the engine coolant to flow through the rad and cool down.

It's really a process of elimination.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to floridasl22002's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help floridasl22002 reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
floridasl22002 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2018, 02:04 PM   #29
redguy45
Junior Member
redguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura about
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: washington
Posts: 15

2001 SL2
2000 SL2
Default Re: Coolant problem

Hi again,

I haven't been able to recreate the problem I was having. I flushed the system again, checked out the hoses running from the radiator and checked the thermostat a few times to see if it would fail outside of the car.

After all the times I tried to bleed the air out of the system I guess it finally wanted to burp.

I do apologize if this was a waste of your efforts but it was really appreciated.

I am looking for a rebuild kit for the spare 1.9 DOHC from a 2000 saturn sl2 if you guys are up for suggesting some.

Also, I tracked down the vibrating on my gf's engine. It's the rear motor mount you can access from the bottom of the car. The mount itself isn't busted but the where it's connected to the engine is cracked.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to redguy45's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help redguy45 reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
redguy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2018, 03:37 PM   #30
fdryer
Super Member
fdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond reputefdryer has a reputation beyond repute
 
fdryer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NYC
Posts: 40,855
 

2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: Coolant problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by redguy45 View Post
.....I got home and tried my ac and got nothing, I saw a richpin video that could help diagnose whether its the compressor, clutch or electrical problem. I'm not worried about having ac but the option of manually turning on the coolant fan sounds good to me.

After that I checked the coolant level and it was still good, ran it for 14 minutes with the cap off and it reached 217 degrees and then the coolant backed up and spilled over the reservoir. As soon as it started to come out of the reservoir the fan kicked on......I slowly added water to the system so I didn't shock the block and ran it again cap off and gave it gas via throttle body. The water pump sucked it right down and didn't come back up right away after releasing the throttle. I ran it for 20 minutes to see if it would boil over again and it did not and the fan came on as it should every time it was around 220 degrees.....
When you boiled over before refilling with water, the boil over was probably the stuck air pocket purged when you burped it with a little throttle to rev the water pump, forcing coolant and air pockets thru the system until this pocket of air reached the coolant container.

If you are interested in troubleshooting a dead ac system, post a new thread. The best way is buying an inexpensive uv blacklight to find dye markers from leak(s) with invisible refrigerant. And post a separate thread about rebuilding an engine.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to fdryer's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help fdryer reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
fdryer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-31-2018, 04:45 PM   #31
redguy45
Junior Member
redguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura aboutredguy45 has a spectacular aura about
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: washington
Posts: 15

2001 SL2
2000 SL2
Default Re: Coolant problem

Will do, thanks on the rebuild. I checked for refrigerant leaks with uv goggles but came up with nothing, I'm not too worried about ac.

REWARD EXCELLENCE!

Add to redguy45's Reputation
Rate the quality of this post and help redguy45 reputation points. Click the reputation button near the bottom left corner of this message box. Thank you!
redguy45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
L-300 coolant problem waffalobill L-Series Tech 5 01-26-2017 06:48 PM
Coolant problem bo130 S-Series General 6 08-12-2015 04:03 PM
problem with 97 coolant guage and coolant fan please help mattt6511 S-Series General 26 10-04-2011 08:09 PM
My New Coolant Problem! MadBullo.SN S-Series General 3 11-01-2007 08:13 PM
'98 SC2 with coolant problem +unrelated clutch problem Kpendrgn S-Series Tech 11 07-12-2003 09:02 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:40 PM.

Advanced Forum Search | Advanced Photo Search


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SaturnFans.com. The Saturn Enthusiasts Site.