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Old 11-16-2006, 12:19 PM   #1
vlad06
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Wrench Valve Body Replacement

If you getting Reverse “Slam” or similar problems – just replace the Valve Body. It is easy and cheap enough.

Saturn wants $680 so I bought remanufactured Valve Body ($268) from TRANSTAR – the distributor of Valve Body Express (VBX).

http://www.valvebodyxpress.com/catalog/saturn/taat.asp

*******************************************
Valve Body Replacement Procedure (how I did it)
*******************************************

*** It is not necessary to drain the transaxle before replacing the Valve Body.


1. Place Control Lever to “Park” and leave the car overnight so the fluid can cool and drain from the Valve Body to the bottom part of the transaxle.
2. Disconnect Negative then Positive Battery terminals (8mm socket)
3. Remove the Battery strap – 2 bolts and 1 nut (10mm socket)
4. Remove the air filter and air duct.
5. Remove air filter housing - 3 bolts (10mm socket)
6. Remove 2 bolts holding the Control Module to battery tray (10mm socket). Move the module out of the way without disconnecting the cable.
7. Remove the battery tray – 2 bolts from the top, one from wheel well (13mm socket)
8. *** If your car has ABS brake system – you also need to disconnect Master Cylinder to gain access to Valve Body Cover.
9. Move any cables/hoses away from the top of Valve Body Cover, secure those with cable tie if necessary.

10. *** Wipe off any dust before further disassembly. Use some Brake Cleaner.
11. Loosen the bolt securing electrical connector on the top of Valve Body cover (7mm socket). Then carefully unplug the connector. Move it aside.
12. Remove 8 bolts that hold Valve Body Cover (8mm socket). Carefully slide the cover towards the front of the car and out. Be careful not to bend the cover.
13. Remove 11 bolts holding the valve body (8mm socket). The bolts are all different length so make note of their positions. I used the egg tray with numbers 1- to-11
14. Carefully slide the Valve Body assembly toward the front of the car and up. At this moment the Manual Valve Link will slide out of the hole in Manual Valve. Be careful not to drop the Manual Valve. Note that the plastic clip is facing toward the front of the car.
15. Place the Valve Body assembly on the bench. Carefully slide the Manual Valve out. Also remove the bolt holding Spring Lever (8mm socket). You have to reuse the Spring Lever and the Manual Valve.

16. At this point it is a good idea to inspect the condition of each gear and clutch pack for wear. You can rotate Input Shaft by hand and visually inspect everything.

17. Install the Spring Lever onto new Valve Body. Tighten the bolt.
18. Lubricate with ATF then carefully slide the Manual Valve into new Valve Body.
19. Using extra care not to damage the bottom gasket move the new Valve Body into place. At the same time lift the Manual Valve Link slightly so it is inline with the corresponding hole in Manual Valve. The plastic clip must face toward the front of the car. Now carefully place the Valve body in position.
20. Install 11 bolts starting with two dowel bolts #8 and #9 to get proper alignment.
21. Finger tight all 11 bolts.
22. Using inch-pounds torque wrench (I loaned one from local auto parts store) tighten the bolts in a recommended sequence to 97 inch-pounds.
23. It is a good idea to have somebody move the Control Lever trough all positions so you can watch the Manual Valve movement.
24. Install the Valve Body Cover and Gasket (I was able to reuse the old one), finger tight the 8 Cover bolts then tighten those in a recommended pattern to 89 inch-pounds.
25. Plug the connector, install everything is reverse of removal.
26. Start the car, let it run for a few minutes then place it into Reverse then into Drive.
27. Check for leaks. Enjoy driving. No more Slam, Haah ?


*** I did not have to reset any adaptives – the car itself relearned everything.

*************************************
Good luck...

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Old 11-16-2006, 01:22 PM   #2
K-1
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement how-to procedure

A loose input shaft nut has also been shown to promote the "reverse slam," so replacing the valve body is only part of the solution.

...
Toyota: Moving Forward... off a cliff at a high rate of speed.

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Old 11-16-2006, 04:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement how-to procedure

The Input Shaft Nut gets loose because of repeated "slamming".
The primary cause of failure is worn Pressure Regulator inside the Valve Body. If the problem is caught early - the only part that needs replacement is the Valve Body.

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Old 12-02-2006, 08:49 PM   #4
TXTABBY
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement how-to procedure

Good how-to list. Referring to the input shaft nut being loose, I doubt mine is, due to how I shift into reverse since I've had the 'reverse-slam' issue...nice and slow, stop, count to 2, then move shifter to reverse and it shifts smooth without the 'slam'.

...
Usetahave 1994 SL2 105,000 mi. avg. 29-30 mpg
Austin, TX

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Old 12-28-2009, 05:10 PM   #5
alfasteve
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

In this very good write up on valve body replacement I have but one question. There is reference to lining up with the correct port when replacing the manual valve. How do you determine the correct port? I know the plastic tip must face forward, but how specific does the position of the valve need to be?

Any input is appreciated.
Steve

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Old 04-04-2010, 08:50 PM   #6
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Happy Re: Valve Body Replacement

Any pictorial of how to replace valve body? Thanks

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Old 06-14-2010, 10:26 PM   #7
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

yup, did my valve body and it didnt take care of it completely so im gonna do the input and output shaft nuts as i ordered them and the end cover gasket and only costed me $9 and shipping was $10...go figure so im gonna have them add the ECTS in the mix and have it shipped also! I hope all this CRAP fixes my car cuz if it dont....Im selling it cuz i cant handle it anymore! BLAH

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Old 07-11-2010, 01:52 AM   #8
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

I had a reverse slam when hot. I replaced the valve body today and fix it. Thanks to all who posted. I would recommend if you do your valve body look at the rebuilt valve body to see which bolts to remove. Then loosen the bolts all the way but dont remove the bolts from the valve body. Lift the valve body out with all the bolts in it. Set the rebuilt valve body on car and move the bolts one at a time to the rebuilt valve body. good luck.

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Old 07-11-2010, 05:09 PM   #9
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

well i did notice today as long as i keep the A/C on the car doesnt go over 1/4 or stays right at it and it doenst slam...BUT if i shut the car off and walk away from it for 10-20 and come back the first few gears and even when putting it in drive it jumps a bit but doesnt slam and after goin through the 3rd it goes back to normal but NO slamming!

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Old 08-05-2010, 11:44 PM   #10
campus189
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

Heres a video on how to do it...


Let me know what you think

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Old 08-06-2010, 09:06 AM   #11
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

got mine all done....

First off the valve body i bought as a Reman still had the bad pressure solenoid and a bad gasket so i put a new gasket in and found to be the right shape but the wrong passage ways so i lost reverse and drive(had to start out in 2nd to take off) then got another valvebody from them(guaranteed to be serviced) and now all is better. Slamming is gone and shifts good!

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Old 10-02-2010, 09:01 AM   #12
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

Just replaced my valve body, now the car won't start in park , but will in neutral. Also, if the gear selector is in drive the transmission is in reverse. What did I do wrong?

1994 SL2, TAAT.

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Old 10-02-2010, 11:29 PM   #13
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donovan299 View Post
What did I do wrong?
No doubt something related to the shift linkage - starting at 10:54 of this video . . .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iydt4TLPXyg&NR=1

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Old 11-23-2010, 12:39 PM   #14
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

First of all....THANK YOU for this thread. couldn't have done it without you. I did both the valve body and an input bolt tightening with was loose. The VB did the trick. 2nd and Reverse works great now...BUT I now have infrequent shifting to 4th (overdrive) and when it does shift to 4th it's not really there! it's like shifting to Neutral! HELP - Any suggestions

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Old 11-24-2010, 09:48 PM   #15
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by pfmsound View Post
First of all....THANK YOU for this thread. couldn't have done it without you. I did both the valve body and an input bolt tightening with was loose. The VB did the trick. 2nd and Reverse works great now...BUT I now have infrequent shifting to 4th (overdrive) and when it does shift to 4th it's not really there! it's like shifting to Neutral! HELP - Any suggestions
From the FSM . . .
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...rry/TAAT46.jpg
http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/z...rry/TAAT47.jpg

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Old 11-24-2010, 10:00 PM   #16
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by pfmsound View Post
HELP - Any suggestions
Another thread maybe worth reading . . .
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=160247

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Old 01-06-2011, 10:15 AM   #17
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

2001 Saturn SL1, Automatic, how do you drain the fluid to change it? I can not find a drain plug anywhere?

Does anyone know if the air and coolant temperature sensors are the same as the Transmission temperature sensor? Mine seems to be the original, and leaking inside the connector area!

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Old 01-30-2011, 02:07 PM   #18
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

Well I found the drain plug. It was just too tight.

The three temp senors seem to be the same part. I still need to replace two of them and one connector.

I bought and installed a beefed up, rebuilt valve body off of ebay.

I about half expected this transmission to blow up tossing gears and case material all over the neighborhood after loosing 2 parts (manual valve and one bolt), and never finding them (which left me thinking they might be in the bottom of the T case ) while replacing the valve body, with a beefed up rebuilt valve body.

Except for some steady medium frequency buzzing in "2" and "N", and a little in "R", (sounds like an electric solenoid coil buzzing, or a chattering valve buzzing), it shifting and drove perfectly. No more reverse, 1-2, or 2-3 shift slam!!!!

Never did find the missing parts. The manual valve turned out to be non-magnetic, so the 3ft long, magnetic tipped snake search in the T case was a waste of time. I lost the manual valve while trying to install the valve body. It really is a 2 man job reinstalling the valve body, otherwise you risk damaging the lower gasket and losing the manual valve as you try to connect the rear linkage back up to the manual valve!!!!

After several test drives and adding T fluid, it through a service engine light message. Will post more later, when I get the codes. I think I need to replace two temp sensors and one wiring harness connector for the Temp sensor of the Transmission Case. The connector and temp sensor on the T case were in bad shape. The connector had heat and transmission fluid damage near as I could tell. The connector literaly crumbled. Had to tape it on for the tests.

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Old 04-28-2011, 05:04 AM   #19
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

Thanks for this!

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Old 08-29-2011, 03:50 PM   #20
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Default Re: Valve Body Replacement

This is an excellent post, thank you.

I'm about to perform this same operation on my 98 SW2. What gaskets need to be replaced? Is the gasket you refer to in the instructions rubber or paper? If paper, should I replace it or just be gentle and reuse it?

Thanks

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