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Old 04-08-2016, 01:56 PM   #81
Chris Arnold
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More detail on the tires:

The tires were very nearly uniform in wear from inside to outside. The rears were ever so slightly under 9/32nds of an inch all the way across. The fronts were at 7/32nds on the outside and about 6.5/32nds on the inside. I put the tires on at 95,000 miles. Now they're at 111,016 miles.
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:11 PM   #82
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111,922 - new 0W40 Mobil 1 oil change.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:54 PM   #83
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After blowing up lithium batteries in 1 GPS, 1 dash cam, and 1 spare cell phone battery in the center console, I decided it wasn't worth holding out anymore. So I added ceramic tint. I've heard this stuff will make my laser detector less effective, but I really don't think laser detectors do much to give you advanced notice, anyway. By the time you detect them, you're already toast.

Anyway, ceramic tint was expensive at $350, but it's supposed to be the best type, particularly at heat reflection. It also apparently doesn't fade, doesn't interfere with radar detection, blocks UV (no sunburns) and infrared (heat waves) light.

I believe they added 20% to the rear and rear passenger windows, 35% to the side windows, and 20% for the front windshield strip.
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:38 AM   #84
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Those windshield blocker things work really well, too. I use a pop-up set - like this but plain silver, no patterns
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-Expre...Shade/36127699

During the summer, I don't bother trying to fold them back up, just toss them in the backseat (rarely have passengers). They only get folded for the winter

3M makes an almost clear window "tint" that is supposed to be good at blocking UV and heat. No personal experience, and pricey, but might go that route if I buy a new car. AFAIK, it's not sold for DIYers, but only available at 3M-certified installers

http://www.motortrend.com/news/3ms-w...rk-tint-77391/
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Old 07-24-2016, 10:31 PM   #85
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Funny you mentioned that! After the first day of testing, the interior was still way too hot. Since the only the lower front windshield wasn't tinted, I picked up a reflector from the store for about 5 bucks. I'm not a big fan of the suction cups leaving marks on the window, but it's a necessary evil. It hasn't been in heavy sun since, but I believe it's making the difference as interior temps have been substantially cooler. If this still doesn't do the trick, then I guess I'll just have to live with the heat, or get a car cover.
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:50 PM   #86
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Mine don't have a suction cup - held up by the sunvisors
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:01 PM   #87
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116,010. Time for the winter oil change. I dropped to 0W-30 in anticipation of colder weather. I've never seen 0W in 30 weight oil before. So, I'm interested to see how it goes. Surprised to see I only put 4k miles on it in 6 months. That's the least I can remember putting on it in 6 months since I bought it. I live right next to work now. So, I guess that helps. Still loving this car. She needs a tire rotation and a bath, but since I'll be putting winter tires on it in December-January, I'll wait til then.
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Old 10-15-2016, 06:46 PM   #88
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Sweet. Right rear window fix was easy as pie Total cost - $0.00

Next up, I will diagnose the squeaking accessory/pulley/belt.

To answer the question about the temp gauge: During the warmth of the day, it stayed a tad less than halfway between the 1/4 and 1/2 lines on the temp gauge. So, basically a bit less than 3/8s, even though there's no 3/8 line. At night, it dropped a bit to just a bit over 1/4. Any issue there?

Chris
Yes. The gauge should reach around 1/2 @ 190F, which is when the thermostat begins opening. I have a 185F Thermostat, and my gauge hovers just under the half mark.

The ECTS should be checked, in addition to your thermostat.

The ECTS is underneath your EGR valve, and should only take a deep-well 13mm socket to remove. Make sure you get the brass replacement, wrap the threads with PTFE thread tape, and reinstall.

The thermostat is very easy to get to with the A/C compressor removed, however, I haven't seen any Twin Cams without A/C from the factory. It is a little harder to get to, from the bottom, but not overall too difficult. Just buy a set of pliers that can hold the snap ring for the hose. From there, it is two 10mm bolts. The thermostat housing is part of the assembly and they use a rubber o-ring gasket that is reusable.

Reinstallation can be confusing, so to clarify, make sure you hold the housing firmly in place, thread each blot finger tight and in an even sequence. Then, torque them down evenly in - turns, to specifications.

2002 with only 71,000 miles, you may want to flush the entire system put with distilled water and refill with green coolant, unless you want to replace your head gasket in about 30,000 miles
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:22 PM   #89
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Scratch that first post. I didn't see the age of this thread.

Anyway, here are my thoughts having come from 20+ years of tearing these vehicles apart for a living and now being the owner of a 1995 SC2, myself.

Saturn was the third most popular brand of automobile, in North America, its ver first year of production. GM dealerships were also typically sold out of them, to the point of backorder in 1991.

Great cars. Great value. Typical GM "cost-effective" engineering under the hood.

Everyone here swears by running synthetic oil in these engines, as the alternative to fixing the actual problem with oil consumption.

And as far as the cooling system, flush that orange out and refill it with standard green, unless you want to eat about $1,400 in labor for a brand new head gasket, because it is a DOHC engine.

There is no horse to beat on these two issues:
You can get well over 500,000 miles on the factory drive train if it is well-maintained and not beaten to death on a race track everyday.

Bite the bullet, and tear the engine down. Perform a rebuild and install the pistons from Rock Auto that have oil return flow holes drilled in them. Getting new valve guides won't hurt, as oil starvation will eventually wear them down if the oil level vets depleted from the failed oil control rings.

You will have about $2000 tied up in the labor to have a shop do this if you lack the tools and knowledge to do that, yourself.

However, looking at costs of oil
Where I live, conventional 10w-30 High Mileage is $4/quart.
Mobil-1 Synthetic 5w-40(that everyone swear by on here) is $7/quart.

Conventional Oil: 3,000 miles or 3 months
Synthetic Oil: 5,000 miles or 6 months

Now, factoring in 1/quart of burnt oil per 1,000 miles(the "industry standard" supposedly) you would use 3 quarts of oil during the convention Service Change on conventional, and 5 quarts on synthetic.

You need 4-4.5 quarts per change interval(depending on short or long filter).

So, let's do the math over 100,000 miles:
Conventional: 33 oil changes at 7 quarts of oil consumed, times $4 per quart:
$924 in oil

Now, Synthetic: 20 oil changes at 9 quarts per change, times $7 per quart:
$1,260 in oil

Essentially, every 100,000 miles you are adding $336 in extra cost to vehicle. After about 600,000 miles, the extra cost of synthetic oils offsets the repair that permanently fixes the problem.

And this is at 1000 miles per quart. Most 1.9L engines are well below the "industry standard" as the engine ages, with some getting as low as 200 miles/quart.

Regarding the orange Dex-Cool. It is not a dead horse. It is a proven FACT that Dex-Cool eats the head gaskets.

This Corvette owner did a little test and made a PDF document of his findings on the LT5 engine.

http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...d%20Gasket.pdf

Flush your system and refill with green. PERIOD
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:48 AM   #90
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Great post! Thank you!

I'm not sure I'm ready to put $2k into a car I paid less than twice that for. When it's time for a rebuild all bets are off, though.

Your math does make sense, but

- mine burns less than 1 quart per oil change
- I always look for sales on synthetic and typically pay 20-25 for 5 quarts
- your math says it breaks even at 600k miles. That's probably longer than I'll keep the car, not to mention it would be ~40 years at 15k miles/year. Considering the time value of money, I'm better off investing that $2k

Thanks for the info about dex-cool and headgaskets. I'll look into that one. A coolant flush is no biggie.
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:57 PM   #91
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There are plenty of factors to consider. I paid only $200 for my 1995 Saturn SC2. I have less than $2000 into the entire car, and that is including brand new tires, brand new brakes(including parking brake cables), and many other parts. My engine is burning oil.

If you plan to resell that vehicle at a later time, keep up on the oil to prevent the damage from being worse as the car ages. It is much harder to find a buyer for a car that has a blown engine, than it is to find a buyer for a car with a good engine.

I average about 25,000 mile/year on a vehicle. And remember, I did not fsctor the cost of adding oil periodically, into that math.

$4/quart per 100,000 miles would be $400
$7/quart per 100,000 miles would be $700

Factoring that into the equation of all the oil change, and after the first 100,000 miles, you have spent $2000 in synthetic oil, versus $1300 in conventional.

It is a matter of preference to each owner. I would hate to see you sell that Saturn and later come to regret it, because they really are a hidden "gem" that is over looked by the average consumer.

I buy my cars with the intention of keeping them indefinitely or until the frame has rotted to the point that the engine just falls out of the car while I am driving and the car can not move another inch.

I have also came to learn that these newer cars are much more complex, get only marginal better fuel economy, and are way more expensive to maintain.

What got me piqued on the Saturn? Well, a friend of mine races his 1992 SL2 at Sharon Speedway, here in Ohio. The "hidden" potential for performance out of a 40mpg car that I seen, made my jaw drop. Plus, those plastic body panels have only ever been used on one other AFFORDABLE mass-produced vehicle: The Pontiac Fiero

Everybody knows the benefits of carbon-fiber plastic instead of steel body panels, but you don't start looking to buy a jew car, when your current car still has an immaculate body after 20 years and over 200,000 miles on it. It is a catch 22 for the automakers to use that technology on daily drivers, like our Saturns.
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:32 AM   #92
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I couldn't agree more! I get funny looks from people who know that I'm a car guy when they see my Saturn. In conversation it's pretty easy to defend, though. I LOVE this car. I make enough to buy anything any reasonable guy could afford, and yet I'd rather not lose the depreciation, maintenance, or repair costs. I own 3 other cars, a trailer, and a wave runner. They're all old, and in tip top condition. I could sell 4 of the 6 for more than I paid, and I could sell the Saturn for close to what I paid. I could never sell the mustang for the money I've put into it, but it's a toy/hobby.

Anyway, the Saturn absorbs the vast majority of all miles I put on any of my vehicles, and at almost 15 years old, I feel so confident in it that I have already driven around the eastern part of the country a couple times. Yep, I love the body panels, too. It really is a gem, and like you, until the body is falling out, or too many major things are going wrong simultaneously, I'm gonna keep on going with it for as long as I can. It's hard to see into the distant future, but I can totally imagine driving it for another 15 years, give or take.
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Old 10-17-2016, 01:13 AM   #93
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Like your car, looks very similar to the 00sl2 I have listed, which cost less than half what you paid. Damn near same mileage also.

Of course it had minor issues, just like yours. These cars are generally easy to repair for diy people.

Seriously though, enjoy the ride, and welcome to Saturn fever.
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:58 PM   #94
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Quote:
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- I always look for sales on synthetic and typically pay 20-25 for 5 quarts
Walmart has Pennzoil platinum rolled back to under $23 for a 5 qt jug, or $4.60 a qt. Through the end of the year, you can get a Pennzoil rebate (apply on line) for $2/qt, bringing the price down to $2.60 a quart.

I'm loving the current oil glut (woo hoo! Gas under $2 a gallon today)
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Old 10-17-2016, 05:58 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
Walmart has Pennzoil platinum rolled back to under $23 for a 5 qt jug, or $4.60 a qt. Through the end of the year, you can get a Pennzoil rebate (apply on line) for $2/qt, bringing the price down to $2.60 a quart.

I'm loving the current oil glut (woo hoo! Gas under $2 a gallon today)
Damn!

Pennzoil Platinum is good oil, and generally it's priced under Mobil 1, but that's exceptional. I might have to stock up.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:04 PM   #96
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120,194 miles. Oil changed. The PX only had 4 quarts of Mobil1 0W-30 so I mixed in a Quart of 0W-40. I guess that means I'm running 0W-32 now Also running a motorcraft filter now, because I think motorcraft makes a pretty good filter.

Some issues are bothering me a little more than they used to:
- A/C compressor is too noisy ever since the A/C leak. I'm guessing there is some minor damage internally due to the loss of lubricant and it's responsible for the annoying albeit slight whining sound.
- Shifter still squeaks whenever moved.
- I hear something in the front suspension rattling a bit. I think it may be a bad bushing, perhaps on the passenger shock
- I still haven't repaired the bumper I scraped back in Dallas earlier this year.

None of them are a big deal, but I'm never happy when I know something isn't quite right on a car. So, I'm gonna get try to get around to each of these things, this year.
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Old 02-04-2017, 12:32 AM   #97
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The battery I bought in November 2015, a Duralast Gold from Autozone, failed on me this morning. Of course, AutoZone replaced it under warranty. I noticed that the new 75DLG comes with 700 CCA, 50 more than the old one. I also don't hold it against the battery as I drained the battery too many times over the last year. When I leave the car parked for a few days, I often have forgotten to shut off my GPS, dash cam, and phone charger. Hopefully, I will do a better job taking care of this one.
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Old 02-04-2017, 05:56 PM   #98
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I don't remember if you've done this or anyone mentioned it, but adventureoflink posted a how to based on some instructions from OldNuc - think it's in the How To Library - for installing a separate fused power source. I believe it's set up with a relay so that it is only powered when the car is turned on. Might protect your battery from forgetting to shut stuff off
edit: link
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=174747

One of my previous cars did not have a "turned off the care but left the headlights on" warning and I drained that battery more times than I care to admit (I bought an aftermarket beeper eventually that alerted me)
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Old 02-08-2017, 05:08 PM   #99
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That's a really good point. It's something I want, but it looks like a bear to tackle. I know the thinking here is that the cigarette lighter will burn up one of the power board (F12?), and remember talking about that on an earlier page. even still, I also remember searching for an example of this happening in an '02, and couldn't. So far, I've rolled the dice. I've had a GPS, Radar Detector, Dash Cam, and as many as 2 phone chargers running off of the cigarette lighter for 2.5 years. Still haven't run into any noticeable issues.

In the event that I pull the center console to fix the squeaking shifter, I'll run another wire to the cigarette lighter.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:42 PM   #100
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120,430 - At my last gas fill, for ****s and giggles while checking under the hood, I decided to crank the car and check for blowby at the oil fill cap. Wow! The air was just flowing from the crankcase. I didn't expect that because the car has been running like a top. After reading a couple of threads here, I notice that the fixed-orifice PCV valve is a popular "mod." So, I ordered one, and installed it today. Now, the crankcase is pulling a slight vacuum at idle again. Thanks again to the forums for the S-Series knowledge! I don't expect much improvement, but who knows, maybe the oil burning will drop even lower and the MPGs will go even higher! :-D
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