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View Poll Results: Did I get a good deal?
Paid way too much!! 10 12.35%
A little high 29 35.80%
Just about right 28 34.57%
Great Deal! 15 18.52%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 81. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 08-14-2015, 01:18 PM   #61
Chris Arnold
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You are making a bad assumption, or the programmer maed a bad assumption. The VI is only defined between 40C and 100C what happens outside of those extremes is not defined and you will find 1 or 2 low temp data points but 1 of them is more or less a mathematically obtained rectal extraction, cold cranking viscosity is a calculated value.
I'll take your word for it. Either way, it clearly shows people who don't really understand about the nature of oil that just because it's "0W" doesn't mean it's better in winter than oil of another grade.

ps. I hope the people who are still voting on whether or not I got a good deal on the car realize that I bought it a year ago.
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Old 08-14-2015, 03:50 PM   #62
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The lack of understanding of how a VI index is defined and derived allows a refiner the ability to formulate an oil that meets the criteria for a 0w-30 or 0w-40 rating and still have it turn into roofing tar viscosity at zero Fahrenheit and still get the public to buy it. That is why checking the cold pour temperatures provides a reliable data point for low temperature performance.
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Old 08-14-2015, 05:08 PM   #63
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On another note as you have not mentioned where you are located it is difficult to actually get a good value on your new car.

Be advised that the installed electrical system is very weak so don't think you can use the cigarette lighter for anything like a power port for extra toys without serious consequences. The only people who get away with this have manual windows, locks and no sun roof and every so often they burn up the electrics anyway.
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Old 08-14-2015, 10:22 PM   #64
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On another note as you have not mentioned where you are located it is difficult to actually get a good value on your new car.

Be advised that the installed electrical system is very weak so don't think you can use the cigarette lighter for anything like a power port for extra toys without serious consequences. The only people who get away with this have manual windows, locks and no sun roof and every so often they burn up the electrics anyway.
1 year down running a GPS, Radar detector, aftermarket head unit, and a phone charger with no issues. At least I'll know what's going on when the problem finally surfaces. So far, knock on wood, so good.
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Old 08-14-2015, 11:04 PM   #65
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When it quits the part to fix it will no longer be available. Among other things it takes out the fuel pump and BCM when it fails. Build an aux power distribution panel or stock parts to fix.
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Old 08-15-2015, 12:07 AM   #66
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I am willing to face the challenge when I come to it. Though, it's possible I'll get bored enough and decide to run a separate wire to the cigarette lighter.
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:23 PM   #67
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Just wanted to report that after nearly 1 year and 23k miles, knock on wood, there were no repair needs. The Saturn has lived up to the reputation.
very nice!

Quote:
Depreciation costs
I paid little enough that I didn't bother. Max depreciation will be: purchase price - scrap value

Quote:
Insurance I have liability on the car with a pretty healthy max coverage, and pay 371.36/yr
That's pretty good. I opted not to carry full insurance (carry the minimum) because insurance is high in MI. Been involved in very few accidents so that has turned out well for us. I read somewhere that on average, 1 in 10 years is average accident rate (not sure of the severity)

Quote:
Repairs- Aside from the initial repairs that I rolled into the purchase price, above, Repairs this year are $0.
I kept track for a short while, but basically, I figured that maintenance is average or slight less (I would change the oil the same amount on any car I owned and drove in the same manner) so I stopped tracking those costs. Interesting for a while, though, to confirm what is being paid.

Don't recall if I posted this already on this thread, but my car has actually been kind of dull add gas, oil, and drive. Oh, and the lifetime alignments. Coming up on 7 years of driving it, have added nearly 80,000 miles to the clock.
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Old 08-20-2015, 11:49 AM   #68
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Whoops! I didn't mean to imply that I have full coverage. What I meant was that I opted for liability up to the maximum USAA will insure me, which is $1M, I think. Yeah, you've posted here in this thread at the beginning. Thanks for your feedback!

Anyway, just came to update. The junkyard tires I went with were an experiment. At $20 per tire, I thought I was saving myself some cash in the long run. Verdict? Well, I probably won't be going that route again. I probably did actually go 15,000 miles on them in the last year (with the remaining miles put on the Winter tires). So, it wasn't a terrible turnout. However, the tires squeeled a bit on anything but light turns, lost a little air and had to be watched closely and refilled every 2 weeks or so, and were a little disconcerting in the rain. In the end, I probably could have gone another 10-15k miles on them and made them worth the money, but I decided that I'd rather avoid the hassles and put on the new 90k-mile Continental True Contact tires that have been patiently waiting for a few months.

The clock is at just over 95k miles on the car right now. Hopefully, between them and the winters, I won't be needing another set of tires til 200k+. I find 90k miles a number that's hard to believe, but since Continental will reimburse the difference if they come up short, I'm happy with giving them a try.

My first impression is that they're definitely handle much nicer than the junkyards, and there's noticeable road noise, but nothing significant. I'm anxious to see if they add the 1-2 mpg that people have been claiming. I've kept a pretty good log of my fuel economy, and I should be able to tell if there's a noticeable difference.
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Old 08-28-2015, 02:42 PM   #69
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Just a quick update. I took the car up to Chicago and back to help my brother move. Now, the car is at 96,300 miles, and I just changed the oil and filter again. It's late in the year, but since I've been on a 2k mi/month pace, I figured I'd get through 1 more oil change with Mobil 1 0W-40 before the switch back to 5W-30, later this year.

The tires do at least as well as the old ones in fuel mileage. I managed just over 42mpg on the last tank, which is the best I'd ever seen with the other set of tires. I've aired the tires to 38psi up front and 34 in the back, and I like the response. I know it's quite a bit higher than the door sticker's recommendation, but I do tend to take corners hard. I've got a tread depth gauge and will keep an eye on the wear to see if it's uneven over time.
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Old 10-26-2015, 05:41 PM   #70
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Oil Change: 100,438 miles. Went back to 5W-30 for the winter.

To do:
- Oil-spray undercarriage to inhibit rust for the winter
- Change to winter tires at first heavy snowfall

Updates:
- Looking back over my fuel mileage since swapping to the stock-sized Continental TrueContact "Eco" tires, there is no discernible difference. My mpg range has still been from low 30s to low 40s averaging at around the mid 30s. The tires still remain at ~9/32s.

- no additional maintenance requirements, however I have occasionally heard an occasional thud that almost sounds like a spring unbinding. I've never heard this in a car before, but have not felt anything unusual. I'll check things out next time I get it onto a lift.

- added a dash-cam, which in its first week was effective at identifying a drunk driver to a police officer who I observed running into another car in a parking lot before fleeing. Now I have a radar detector, a GPS, a head unit with an attached Ipod, phone charger, and a dash-cam all running off of the electrical system. I have not noticed any issues over the past year. I'm tempted to believe, despite warnings to the contrary, that the '02 electrical system is not as fragile as previous years, because I have not been able to find '02 owners who claimed the same issue.
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Old 11-03-2015, 08:36 PM   #71
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Even though the date stamp showed a manufacture of 01/13, the old Delco battery was acting a bit weak. So, as a bit of preventative maintenance I went ahead and replaced it with a 650CCA Duralast Gold from Autozone, today (100,800 miles). I believe worn down batteries can be hard on an electrical system, and I figure the slow cranking will only get worse through the winter.

I know that the stock OEM batteries are in the 525 or 550 range, but the one that came from the dealer was a 650 and seemed to work fine, and after reading a couple searched posts on this forum, a lot of folks seem to support the Duralast Golds, and I too have used them in the past. Total cost after military discount and core exchange was $114 and comes with a 3-year free replacement warranty.

Last edited by Chris Arnold; 11-03-2015 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:21 PM   #72
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Update: I just took a 1,000 mile drive down to Dallas, where I'm moving next week, with the car. I had absolutely no problems with it. I drove it hard, often cruising at 85-90 mph (I35 speed limits were 75 mph). It burned at least a quart of oil on the drive. That's a lot more than I'm used to seeing, but it's running 30 weight, and I was pushing it.

There's a rattling sound on start up and shut off that's coming from the back of the car and underneath. I'll bet it's the exhaust rattling some how. I'll need to get it on a lift and take a look, but I don't consider it a serious concern.

My key FOB, even with a new battery, struggles to successfully lock/unlock the doors. So, it'll get a new one on my next trip to a place that can sync it.
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Old 12-25-2015, 08:51 AM   #73
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I am running Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 in my Saturn with no problems.

If its burning oil, try Rotella T5 10W-30 in the summer, or Rotella T6 5W040 in the winter, and a long (Fram 3600 or Purolator 20195) oil filter. Contains lots of detergents.

General RT43's are cheap, and have good reviews. If buying in pairs, you can put 205/60R15 on instead of the skinny 185/65R15...
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:35 AM   #74
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I am running Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 in my Saturn with no problems.

If its burning oil, try Rotella T5 10W-30 in the summer, or Rotella T6 5W040 in the winter, and a long (Fram 3600 or Purolator 20195) oil filter. Contains lots of detergents.

General RT43's are cheap, and have good reviews. If buying in pairs, you can put 205/60R15 on instead of the skinny 185/65R15...
Now that I'm moving to dallas, I think I'm going to run 0W-40 year round. If temps drop and stay in the low 30s or below, then I probably will go with 5W-30 for one change a year.

I actually have a nice set of continental winters for the car, but I think I'll rarely need them. In fact, I've got an extra set of winters in the same size off of my old BMW 318i that finally came to the states in my household goods. All these winter tires, and nothing to do with them, lol...
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Old 12-30-2015, 02:01 PM   #75
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Rattle is probably an exhaust shield. The one over my muffler rattles on occassion, corroded at one of the rivets and is loose there.
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Old 01-07-2016, 09:04 AM   #76
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Rattle is probably an exhaust shield. The one over my muffler rattles on occassion, corroded at one of the rivets and is loose there.
You were the winner! lol Exhaust shield it was. I started a new job in Dallas, and am working 70 hours/wk for the foreseeable future. So, I dropped it off at a place down the road and they took care of this and added new front rotors and pads, since the old rotors were warped and giving me some vibrations when I stopped. $240 and out the door. Not bad.

Additionally, the car just got an alignment and oil change at 104,xxx miles.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:17 PM   #77
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For the first time, the car has an issue that isn't a regular wear part. I believe the cooling fan has failed. At first I thought it was the A/C because it wasn't blowing cold while stopped in a parking lot. I checked the coolant temp gauge and everything looked normal. I popped the hood and saw the compressor running fine. I was really getting concerned that the a/c compressor had gone or that I had somehow lost my freon very suddenly. Then, I realized that the fan wasn't running. I rushed back to the car and the coolant gauge was almost in the red. I shut the car off, and checked the fan's fuse, but it looked good. So, I pulled and replaced the relay with a spare, and the fan still wouldn't run.

Seems like what remains is the wiring and the fan itself. This is not the first fan-related issue I've had. In this thread, back on 12February15, post #38, I blew the fan fuse. That may have been a symptom of the fan drawing too much power, which may have been a sign that it was already starting to go bad.

Anyway, I'm looking for recommendations on the brand of fan to use as a replacement, or advice if there's something else I should test/check before I replace the fan. Hopefully, this is a painless remove and replace. Electric fans have always been pretty easy in the past.

Chris

Oh and ps. I just changed the oil again at 108,199 miles with 5W30 synthetic. I still believe in 0W40 oil for this car, but the last 2 oil changes have been free due to a screw up from Firestone on the alignment that I mentioned in the last post. Firestone fixed the alignment problem and gave me two free synthetic oil changes.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:34 PM   #78
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RockAuto sells fan motors, cheap. Just replace motor. You can disconnect it and then connect direct to the battery to verify it is your motor that has died. There is the fuse and relay either of which may also be the problem if you have yet to check those parts. The fan runs from 19 to 60$ depending on who has their name on the box. Local part store also has them be sure it is for an air conditioned car as there are 2 different motors for the earlier cars and local parts sometimes fail to read all the info on the screen.
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:20 PM   #79
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Thanks Nuc, great advice!
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:35 PM   #80
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RockAuto sells fan motors, cheap. Just replace motor. You can disconnect it and then connect direct to the battery to verify it is your motor that has died. There is the fuse and relay either of which may also be the problem if you have yet to check those parts. The fan runs from 19 to 60$ depending on who has their name on the box. Local part store also has them be sure it is for an air conditioned car as there are 2 different motors for the earlier cars and local parts sometimes fail to read all the info on the screen.
I ended up ordering a basic fan motor from a local parts store for $28 with a lifetime warranty. Complete removal/installation took less than 30 minutes in the parking lot of a nearby autobody shop that was kind enough to loan the basic hand tools I needed. I love this car's maintenance and repair costs and ease of work.

Also, I had the tires rotated. They didn't charge anything, but they also only swapped same side front to back instead of crossing over one of the sets. Oh well. Now the rear tires are at 7/32 and fronts at about 9/32. Tire wear is pretty close to uniform from inside to outside.
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