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#1 |
Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: monroe, nc
Posts: 70
2001 SL1
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First of all this site has really helped with the diagnosis of my intake gasket problem (carb spray around the cylinder 1 runner). This was causing a misfire and also may be the cause of my spark knocking (too lean of a mixture).
I need a detailed description on how to replace the gasket. Preferably a step by step description. I know there are two different methods..a quick one and much longer one. What are the pros and cons? This will be my first attempt at something of this magnitude. Thanks for the help in advance. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oxford, Ct
Posts: 1,068
2004 VUE 2.2L
2008 AURA XE
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I believe there is a how- to post on this in the How to library forum.
If you do a search there you'll be directed to it.
...
Previously Owned 98 SL2, Sold 98 SL, Sold When your Saturn is well kept YOU are well kept. Second Car: Buick LaCrosse 2006 |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Near Saratoga, NY
Posts: 1,138
1995 SL1
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^^^^^^^
Just like it is said... have you read this one? http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49919 |
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#4 |
Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: monroe, nc
Posts: 70
2001 SL1
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Yes, I did read it. That seems too easy...he didn't remove the TB, fuel rail, or anything else. How many bolts hold on the manifold and what is the best way to remove the old gasket?
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#5 |
Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: monroe, nc
Posts: 70
2001 SL1
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Well I changed my gaket yesterday and it took a little over 3 hours. It wasn't that hard to do. Below is the procedure I did.
1) Raised vehicle and drained coolant out of engine block 2) Move the PS pump out of the way. You have to move it out towards the fender not towards the firewall. Remove the serpintine belt and remove the upper bolt that holds the PS bracket to the engine. You can get to it through the holes in the pulley. Then remove the lower bolt (this is the hard part). You can't see the bolts and there are a few down there just by feeling. I backed off two down there before the pump was able to move towards the fender. This will give you clearance to back the manifold off the studs. Not sure if both bolts needed to come out, but like I said you can't see what holds the pump on. 3) Remove the nuts that hold the manifold to the engine. There are four up top and five on the bottom. Some you can get to with a deep well socket and others you have to use a wrench. The bottom driver side nut you have to get from the top. There is a bracket that hold some wires and a fuel line that runs to the fuel rail. Remove the bracket out of the way (bottom bolt and top bolt). This will allow you to get to it. You won't be able to see this last nut but feel for it. There will be a couple of electrical connectors that need to be unplugged to give you room to move the ratchet- EGR and a pigtail under the car. 4) Back the manifold off the studs. Two people are helpful so each can grab a side and back it off at the same time. Remove the old gasket. Mine came out in about 7 different pieces. This tells you what a POS the gasket is. 5) I put a thin layer of RTV sealant on the contact points of the new gasket. Slide the gasket back over the studs. Again two people are helpful so each can grab a side and push it back over the studs at the same time to keep it from binding. This was the second hardest part. Be careful too, the new gasket will slice your hands when installing it. 6) Slide the manifold over the studs and tighten the nuts. I started at the top with just finger tight. Moved to the bottom and tightened the bottom nuts. Then tightened the top bolts. I did not have a torque wrench so I snugged them down but not too tight. 7) Attach the bracket you removed and reinstall the PS pump. Don't for get to add coolant. I drove it for a while and then checked the gasket for leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the runners. So far so good. I can't believe garages charge $300-$500 for this replacement. I hope this helps others. |
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