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Old 07-21-2009, 03:41 AM   #21
Ackpacket
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

Sorry, just skimming, can someone clarify which bolt is stuck?

The bolts that slide, mounting the caliper to the (People prefer different terms) caliper mounting bracket/caliper bridge/pad bracket???

Or are we talking about the bolts that mount the bracket to the knuckle?

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Old 07-28-2009, 03:41 AM   #22
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

If you know anyone who has a work bench clamp, then you should take the bolt, place it in there, and twist the caliper, but make sure you have the pin CLAMPED good. I even tried to use a torch and drill... and nothing. Then I put it in the clamp, tightened to were the pin wasn't going anywhere, and just slowly twisted.

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Old 07-28-2009, 07:18 AM   #23
Phyzik sl2
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

ive found that cheap sockets just waste time, get some craftsman sets and you will probobly never have this problem again including you have a good cheater pipe and/or breaker bar. make sure you werent using the wrong socket. ive broken i dont know how many sockets and adapters on cheap sets, then again i tend to put my lug nuts on so tight that impact wrenches cant get them off (oops). ill learn when my studs break or the holes woller out and then i guess ill get a tourqe wrench.

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Old 07-31-2009, 08:45 AM   #24
rollin_96
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Idea Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

I have the same problem. the lower pins on both sides are froze. Tried heat, vice grips, hammer, bigger hammer just wont give. After two days messing with these calipers, i just went to the junkyard and bought two caliper mounting brackets for 10 bucks each. I'm planing on drilling the caliper guide pins holes on the mounting bracket a millimeter or two wider, so i won't have this headache next time.

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Old 07-31-2009, 12:42 PM   #25
sl1driver
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

IIRC, in the opening post of this thread the original poster stated that the pin probably became stuck because he initially tried to turn it the wrong way to loosen it, and ended up tightening it further. Subsequent posts stated that it probably was the pin itself that was stuck, and not the threads. If it was the threads, however, the best way to prevent that is to set the ratchet (if that is what you are using) to turn the right way to begin with. Then, if you try to turn the bolt/pin the wrong way, all that will happen is a loose "ratcheting" motion, no torque on the bolt.

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Old 08-15-2009, 09:38 PM   #26
rollin_96
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

Update, I used a T-handle wire brush and just cleaned the pin part of the mounting bracket to widened the holes abit. The cause of my stuck pins/bolts were do to the rubber boot melting to the lower pins/bolts inside the mounting bracket. PO prolly didn't grease the pins. Use lots of synthetic brake grease on both the inside and outside of the lower caliper pin/bolt boot.

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Old 08-18-2009, 06:08 PM   #27
mjoekingz28
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

I made the same mistake as you Eliot. I was changing pads and rotors and after I did the passenger I came to the drivers side and forgot to switch the ratchet back over and did not noticed since the caliper bolts are facing toward you.

My solution was to go to the junkyard since the guy owed my grandpa a favor and got me an identical caliper. Man them bolts are on there tight.

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Old 09-25-2011, 12:08 AM   #28
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

I recommend the drill method. I too tried the propane torch to no avail. This may have helped 'loosen' it, but I simply drill through the caliper bracket in moments. Plenty soft enough to drill... you're 'there' to the caliper pin in about a1/4 inch... you'll know it.

Then I just stuck a square head screw driver into the hole and pounded that sucker off. At first I used a regular hammer, but then I switched to my mini-sledge "Thor Hammer" and pounded her out. Victory!

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Old 09-25-2011, 03:22 AM   #29
cheapybob
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Default Re: Seized brake caliper bolt.

This is an old thread to be digging up, but timely for me...

I broke one brake caliper slide pin off trying to take off the rears to check the pads on the 96 the other day. At the Advance store they wanted over $20 just for a some pins vs about $30 for a reman caliper that includes them.

I know the pins need to be smooth and greased with the high temp brake grease, but I wonder if I should have put the antisieze on the threads before I torqued them down? I did because I didn't want the pins or threads to completely freeze up and break off again next time. I went through all 4 wheels and none of the pins had been greased in eons, and all took a lot of effort to turn, so I cleaned/smoothed them all as long as I was checking all the pads and rotors, and replacing the fluid anyway. Some had threads that someone had put antisieze on, but others didn't appear to have had anything on the threads.

I think problem with the one that broke was that because the pin wasn't greased for a number of years, it froze up, and the amount of torque required to turn in that condition exceeded the strength of the metal itself, causing the pin to break off in the caliper.

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