Thermostat Housing Bolts

[rockettjay]

So after trying to fix other problems I realized my engine was being overcooled. I was going to replaced the thermostat. I can't get the bolts off that hold the housing in place. I've broken two 10mm socket attachments, so I bought a high quality one and that one slips off. I've cut my knuckles up pretty badly trying remove them.
Anyone else have trouble getting these loose? any tips before I destroy them?

[rc1488]

Originally Posted by rockettjay

So after trying to fix other problems I realized my engine was being overcooled. I was going to replaced the thermostat. I can't get the bolts off that hold the housing in place. I've broken two 10mm socket attachments, so I bought a high quality one and that one slips off. I've cut my knuckles up pretty badly trying remove them.
Anyone else have trouble getting these loose? any tips before I destroy them?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrCSJpbDCiI
video by richpin

[rockettjay]

I have not seen this video yet, but it doesn't help, thank you anyway.
(At least, I know how to use the cardboard thing now)

I just can't get the bolts lose :[

PS I <3 richpin

[madpogue]

You'll need one or more of:

SIX-point socket

Heat

PB B'Laster

[Tiger]

Righty tighty, lefty loosey.

I know I get that one confused, I am dyslexic.

Sometimes having the right tool makes all the difference. For me, it is worth it to spend a few dollars on some halfway decent tools. The torque for those bolts when you put them back is 22 ft lbs. I know mine came out pretty easy, but it could of been having the proper tool. I do have a nice rachet set from SAM's that costs about $60.00. I came with 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" drive so I can choose the ratchet that will give me the appropriate leverage vs. clearance. For stubborn items I have a few breaker bars. They give you the extra leverage you may need to get things started. Lastly, you want the socket square on the bolt head. If things are tight or you can't get the proper angle with a conventional ratchet a flex head ratchet may work better. But a breaker bar's head flexes and it may give you the leverage you need to get those things started.

Not sure there is enough clearance to use one of these plus they may be overkill:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37150

This 3/8 inch one may do the job:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...=breaker%20bar

[DonP]

Using a 6-point socket is the key.

[92SC2]

Snap On offers a reverse threaded socket that will remove rounded bolts and nuts if it comes down to it. I'm sure you can find a knockoff somewhere for cheaper if it comes down to that.

[rockettjay]

I'm done with damn knockoff tools. I'll spend the extra 5 bucks for decent equiptment. I'll check out these suggestions, thanks guys.

[rockettjay]

Originally Posted by DonP

Using a 6-point socket is the key.

In a tight area I'd prefer a 12-point socket.

[2NDSOUT]

Get some Craftsman tools. Soak the bolts with PB Blaster.

I just took the Thermostat off of my 91 SC Project Car on Sunday. When you put your socket onto the bolt, move the wrench towards the PASSENGER side of the car to get the bolt loose (Lefty Loosey). You have to put some into it to get it loose. Mine came loose after a few tries.

Spray the bolts down with PB Blaster and let the PB Blaster get into the grooves, they should come loose. Avoid WD-40; as it is oil based and will only make the bolts more slippery.

PB Blaster works some miracles.

[virnin]

Originally Posted by rockettjay

In a tight area I'd prefer a 12-point socket.

It's easier to round off the bolt or nut with a 12-pt than a 6-pt. Given that you can turn the socket 90 degrees on the breaker bar, there is no advantage to a 12-pt socket. My brother didn't believe either until I demonstrated on his brake caliper pins.

[philavine]

Ya, I just got thru taking off the radiator, water pump and thermostat. I decided to move the ac compressor first and that made access to the thermostat much easier. I found all the bolts to the engine block really tight, as if they used locktight, but didn't see any signs of it. Ended up nearly rounding off one of those bad boy 10 mm bolts on the water pump pulley, but liquid wrench and a propane torch to the bolt head eventually loosened it up. I can't believe they were torqued to 19 lbs only!
Phil

[rockettjay]

Haha I didn't didn't even get a chance to round off bolts, they broke my damn sockets >:[

Ill grab some liquid wrench and give it a go. (Just more stuff to add to my collection)

[madpogue]

Liquid Wrench "Lubricant" (blue can) is a good lubricant, but a lousy penetrant.

Liquid Wrench "Penetrant' (yellow can) is def. better, but still not as good as PB B'Laster.

[BarnOwl]

You tool snobs. I never use anything but cheap Harbor Freight sockets (the really cheap $8.00 color coded ones) on most of my jobs and I don't round bolts and I don't crack sockets. Somehow I think it's how you use the tools that counts more than the tools themselves.

[DonP]

You tool snobs. I never use anything but cheap Harbor Freight sockets

I got 2 MPG more after I use a fully polished, personalized, Craftsman wrench to remove the oil plug for an oil change compared to when I used the Harbor Freight combination wrench. Tools do make a difference!

[92SC2]

Originally Posted by BarnOwl

You tool snobs. I never use anything but cheap Harbor Freight sockets (the really cheap $8.00 color coded ones) on most of my jobs and I don't round bolts and I don't crack sockets. Somehow I think it's how you use the tools that counts more than the tools themselves.

Tool snob here. I like good tools, I despise Chinese made goods and avoid them as much as possible. I realize that not everyone wants to spend $$$ on tools so I recommended HF and the like to find similar tools cheaper.


I have a set of combination wrenches from Vato Zone under the brand name Great Neck. The box end of the 7mm wrench is out of spec and luckily the open end was close enough to work when removing the rear COP on my truck. I am willing to pay for precision instruments. Additionally I currently have in my possession a Snap On swivel head comfort grip ratchet. Use a ratchet for any length of time and it will make you want to throw rocks at your craftsman stuff. It made all the difference in the world when doing the engine swap in my Saturn.

EDIT: When Dave takes it back I'll probably buy one for myself, but I realize that not everyone will spend $112 for a ratchet. If I have the funds later I will and smile while doing it.

[MikeNW]

Comment to tools:

In my collection are several tools I found on the roadside, particularly large channel locks, they are my favorites!

Craftsman ratchets- they work for a while then become sloppy and sometimes slip. Not a good trait for a ratchet!

Black and Decker electric tools- they last about 2 years of light use then ALWAYS burn out. Simply JUNK.

I can see the difference in buying really good tools. Like everything else, it's a cost vs. benefit thing.

On the other hand, owning a Sattie frees up some cash, for good tools.

[fdryer]

Originally Posted by MikeNW

Comment to tools:Craftsman ratchets- they work for a while then become sloppy and sometimes slip. Not a good trait for a ratchet!

Yeah, I was disappointed too with Craftsman ratchets with similar results, slipping. My ratchets sit in the garage that used to freeze the pipes in the winter until I replaced the garage door that added insulation. Stupid me didn't think about the surrounding area's lack of insulation - added and now no more freezing below 32F, comfortably stays above 45F during cold spells this past winter. Anyway, I took the time to disassemble some of the troublesome Craftsman ratchets and found that the grease/oil seemed to congeal over the years and didn't allow the spring operated detents to ratchet properly. Some WD-40 and spinning a few times moved the grease/oil around until the ratcheting action came back. Reassembled them and put them back in the toolbox for another day. I didn't have anything better than WD-40 and I know it loosened up the hard grease/oil. I suppose if I degreased everything and re-lubed with lithium grease it would work also but I didn't bother.

[BarnOwl]

Originally Posted by DonP

I got 2 MPG more after I use a fully polished, personalized, Craftsman wrench to remove the oil plug for an oil change compared to when I used the Harbor Freight combination wrench. Tools do make a difference!

LOL!!!!

Originally Posted by 92SC2

I have a set of combination wrenches from Vato Zone under the brand name Great Neck. The box end of the 7mm wrench is out of spec and luckily the open end was close enough to work when removing the rear COP on my truck. I am willing to pay for precision instruments. Additionally I currently have in my possession a Snap On swivel head comfort grip ratchet. Use a ratchet for any length of time and it will make you want to throw rocks at your craftsman stuff. It made all the difference in the world when doing the engine swap in my Saturn.

I'll confess that I agree that Great Neck tools suck but, I've been quite satisfied with Harbor Freight sockets and wrenches. I'll also say that I have paid extra for ratchets for some time. However, I'm currently trying out some Harbor Frieght ratchets, the blue and black rubber looking ones. So far they are great. I haven't used them long enough to say whether they hold up. I can say for certain that the sockets do though.

If all you do is look at Great Neck and say that they represent all cheap tools, you just aren't cheap enough to find the right bargain. Some of the best tools I have I bought at a flea market in Houston 35 years ago.

Oh and you can't cheap out on flare wrenches. The cheap ones are worthless.