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Old 01-14-2018, 02:19 PM   #81
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Now that the cylinders are cleaned up you should measure for taper and out of round as well as max wear in the thrust direction. Modern environmentally approved piston rings will very likely never seat if ther is any out of round or taper and will tolerate maybe 0.003 - 0.004" total wear on the diameter. This is with the molly rings which are much easier to seat.
Once you are ready to fire it back up follow this and the break-in will be a ~30 minute project. Remember to prime the oil system before starting the engine! No gook other than assembly lube in the oil pump either.

This may be a repeat...
To prime the oil system on a Saturn engine after a complete overhaul, head replacement, timing chain replacement, re-ring, or long term storage perform the following steps.
-Fill crankcase with 4 1/2 quarts of fresh new 5w-30 oil if this is the initial fill following a rebuild otherwise use 4 quarts of oil. Use a decent quality name brand oil.
-Fill a squirt pistol type oiler with the same oil.
-Squirt oil into the square port on the right side of the filter base do this several times until you can not get more oil to stay in it. This will take 4 to 6 ounces of oil.
-Fill the new oil filter a bit more than 1/2 full and screw it in place.
-Remove the PCM B fuse from the UHJB (under hood fuse box). This will prevent the fuel pump and injectors from operating while priming.
-Remove spark plugs.
-Place 1 squirt of 5w-30 oil in each cylinder.
-Turn key to crank and crank engine with the starter until the oil pressure light goes out. This may take several 20-30 second runs of the starter.
-Release key when the oil pressure light goes off.
-Turn key to crank and crank engine again until oil pressure light goes out. Repeat 2 times.
-Replace spark plugs.
-Replace PCM B fuse.
-Prime fuel system by turning key to on but not crank and wait until pump stops, turn key to off, wait 30 seconds. Repeat 2 times.
-Start engine.
*********************************
After start.
-If engine running as expected continue to let it sit and idle while you inspect for leaks and other off normal behavior.
-Do not touch the gas!
-Allow to sit and idle until the fan cycles on and off twice.
-Shutdown engine and allow a 30 minute oil drain down time
-Replace the oil and oil filter with a WIX 51516XP or Mobil-1 M1-209 (do not substitute) filter and a name brand high quality synthetic oil, or high quality name brand synthetic blend oil.
-Drive car conservatively, no steady RPM operation and hold max top gear RPM to < ~3000 RPM
-Closely monitor oil level by parking in the exact same spot and checking level after a 6 hour minimum drain down time. Maintain oil level at the Full mark or up to the lower edge of the "U" in full.
-Once it has been established that oil consumption is zero change oil and filter.
-At this point using a high end 100% PAO synthetic oil is the best option. Amsoil 5w-30 Signature Series or Amsoil
Series 3000 SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Oil is recommended along with the WIX 51516XP filter. Do not run these filters more than 7500 miles but oil change can be done by oil sample results and no more than 700 operating hours. Buy an hour meter and hook it up.

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Old 01-16-2018, 04:52 PM   #82
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

More parts came in.
I did buy cheap new dog bones but I decided to rebuild the old ones. Mainly researching on this forum made me decide get these installed while we have it apart.
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:20 PM   #83
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Top and trans mounts should be OEM and not aftermarket if you can find them as it will make a huge difference in how it feels.

This is how to get it all adjusted so the car runs smooth.

OEM top mount, trans mount, 98 or newer torque axis struts and the polly inserts. Engine must have an even smooth idle. That means good even compression. Clean flow balanced injectors. The 3 rubber exhaust mounts should not be stretched when the car is at rest, just supporting the exhaust. These 3 suspension pieces will be what couples the exhaust vibration into the floor pan so the stretchiness and thickness of these is how you tune them to not appear solid at some inconvenient RPM. The Walker 35119 isolator is thicker than the original OEM. They are cheap so modifying them is not a big deal. They thin nicely on a belt sander but if too thin they break and you will be buying a new exhaust.

If you have an uneven idle you will never reduce the vibration to zero. Setting the torque axis struts to zero tension/compression at rest is critical.

The torque axis struts are of 3 different designs and the 3rd design, late 97 production, have replaceable inserts. These are the stamped and welded design. There are 2 pictures in my gallery. What you are attempting to accomplish is restrain the engine free motion as much as possible without going solid. The main axis of rotation is on a line between the top mount and transaxle mount. The torque axis struts are positioned to restrain the normal torque reaction and drive axle wind up. The poly inserts allow enough motion to not act as a solid link but do not transmit vibration well either. The idea is to keep large excursions of the engine/transmission and exhaust to a minimum. Small displacement of the power train transmits to large displacement in the exhaust. The rubber hangers will deftly transmit this exhaust motion into the floor pan which simulates the head on a large kettle drum, with you inside of it. You can get a buzz in the floor that does not transmit into the upper frame or seats but the large low frequency pan displacement is pushed up to a higher frequency. the characteristics of the rubber mounts determines where this buzz occurs. The trick is to get it somewhere you do not care. By minimizing the powertrain displacement you minimize the magnitude of the exhaust displacement you have to deal with. You can slightly change the static exhaust position to take all the stress off of the flex connector and have the mass of the exhaust evenly spread over the 3 mount points. The muffler hanger basically controls axial twist on the exhaust. I used the Walker 35119 isolators and just stuck them on. Ended up with the buzz from about 50 to 57mph and this is a speed range that is only passed through so I did not pursue any further elimination. the bed liner should kill this 50-57 mph buzz all by itself. The OEM isolators are a softer rubber and thinner and would possibly isolate the floor better but as they were 10+ years old and I am adverse to dragging the exhaust down the road I decided to replace them. The harder-thicker isolator appears as a solid at given frequencies.

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Old 01-20-2018, 10:59 PM   #84
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

The valves are lapped. The head is cleaned up and the block is cleaned up.




ECTS was very bad I have a new one but this this is in bad shape.

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Old 01-21-2018, 09:42 PM   #85
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Not much progress today my son had to do school work.
I got the valve springs and retainers cleaned up and ready to install.
I think at this point we need to get the rest of the head parts cleaned up. Then we can get the head assembled and ready to install.

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Old 01-29-2018, 12:12 AM   #86
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

The head now has valves/seals and lifters/cam shafts.


It is ready to go on the block. It is wrapped in plastic until then.
All the piston rods and main bearing caps are cleaned up.


I had two helpers today.
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Old 01-30-2018, 11:30 AM   #87
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

The rods and bearing caps have a coat of fresh oil on them.
The rods are just waiting for the new pistons. Soon...

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Old 01-30-2018, 01:47 PM   #88
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Before installing the bearing inserts completely wipe all oil off of the back of the insert and the rod-main eyes, no oil between the insert and the rod or main.

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Old 02-01-2018, 10:12 AM   #89
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

@OldNuc good advice I will be doing that.

Pistons are on the rods one more step done.


This weekend the bottom end will going together.
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Old 02-03-2018, 11:50 PM   #90
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

The short block is together. It went well except I should have moved the block in front of the car before I put the crankshaft in. Not a real big deal it is there now.
Everything plastic gauged out good.







Installing the head is up next.
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Old 02-04-2018, 12:30 AM   #91
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1998 SC2
Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Be sure to use the correct torquing procedure and a FelPro or Victor gasket.

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Old 02-04-2018, 10:53 AM   #92
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

I was looking in my factory manual today and noticed that it says to have the tangs facing each other.
When I took my motor apart it had factory paint dot on each rod cap and the tangs were opposite each other.
I put it back the way the factory had it but now looking at the factory manual I am not sure witch way they should be.
Quick internet search and it looks like it should be tang to tang.
I think I should change them to tang to tang?



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Old 02-04-2018, 11:24 AM   #93
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

If you zoom in on this pic you can see it is tang to tang on my motor.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/att...0&d=1498952024

Odd that your caps would have been backwards though.

Edit: the resolution is not as good as the picture I have on my phone. But on my phone I can see it clearly.

...
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Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 02-04-2018, 11:28 AM   #94
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Here is the picture cropped, should show up better.

On my rods if you put the cap on backwards it would be obvious. They are not symmetrical.
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'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 02-04-2018, 11:37 AM   #95
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Thanks for the picture. Your rods a different but they are tang to tang just as the book says to do.

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Old 02-04-2018, 12:00 PM   #96
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

I just double checked and mine are tang to tang. Now on to put the head on.

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Old 02-04-2018, 04:29 PM   #97
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

The head is torqued down. I cleaned both mating surfaces with acetone couple times.
Used the documented torque procedure. This is my first time using torque angle gauge it was not too hard.
I used a two-foot breaker bar that helped make it easy.

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Old 02-05-2018, 10:05 AM   #98
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Timing chain set installed. One more step done.

I will add assembly lube just before I put the timing cover on.
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Old 02-05-2018, 10:53 AM   #99
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

....and don't forget those o-rings! I don't see them installed yet.

...
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Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
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Old 02-05-2018, 12:08 PM   #100
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Default Re: 96 SC2 bringing it back to life (slowly)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_b View Post
The head is torqued down. I cleaned both mating surfaces with acetone couple times.
Used the documented torque procedure. This is my first time using torque angle gauge it was not too hard.
I used a two-foot breaker bar that helped make it easy.

It is a real bear with a 18" bar and if by chance it is not then you have done something wrong.

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