timing?

[gettingold]

i changed the timing tentionor and have timing marks set and #1 cylyder is all the way up, but no fire,,,i need help

[fdryer]

Presuming you're asking about Saturn timing, you've managed to leave out some essential information. Saturn models start with the S-series then moves on to the L's, and Aura's, Ions, Outlooks and Vues. If you know your model, repost again in the model forum with car info, year/model/mileage/parts replaced/etc., so everyone will have an idea of your problem.

[billysvue]

all of the above and maybe you're 180 degrees off

[gettingold]

sorry its a 2001 i300 v6 68000 miles

[fdryer]

Either continue here or post over in the L-series tech forums to reach as many L-series owners as possible. Timing belt issues were already covered with excellent info in past threads with pictures. As mentioned, either timing is off about 180 degrees or something else is preventing the engine from running - either fuel or spark (presuming timing is correct and spark plugs are good). 4-stroke engines use 720 degrees of timing so top dead center is every other 360 degree revolution of the crankshaft before intake and exhaust valves are closed. This only takes care of mechanical timing with fuel injection and spark part of the EFI system. Ensuring mechanical timing is correct allows you move on to advanced EFI system diagnostics, figuring out whether fuel, spark both failed.

If you're knowledgeable enough to re-time an engine then you're aware intake and exhaust valves should closed at or before top dead center for cylinder#1. This presumes compression is good and the engine was running before the timing belt was replaced. If timing is correct, the next steps are diagnosing a fuel, spark or both missing.

Fuel can be checked easily from the fuel test valve over the top of the engine. With ignition on engine off, the fuel pump runs for two seconds to pressurize the fuel rail, enough to squirt fuel out the fuel test valve when the black plastic cap is removed and valve stem depressed. Cover the test valve loosely with a rag as 40-55 psi will shoot fuel. This only checks for fuel and pressure, not injectors. Spark is difficult to check but a work around would be spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and starting. Knowing fuel is manually sprayed into a throttle body should result in a brief engine run if spark occurs.

Did you check for blown fuses?