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Old 05-26-2019, 08:52 PM   #1
switt
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Default Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Trying to get blower working and followed richpin's video and all checked out except resistor, relay receptacle 87a. Checked resistor, another video, and it is good. Found blower motor relay receptacle for pin 30 melted in my fuse panel, see attached. Replaced the relay and nothing. Found that my receptacle for relay pin 30 is grounded. I think that pin 30 is to supply power to the resistor? Anyone have a wiring diagram? Anyway, before yanking the fuse box, was hoping someone may have insight or pointers. Thanks.
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File Type: jpg IMG_20190526_195842.jpg (227.9 KB, 24 views)

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Old 05-26-2019, 09:34 PM   #2
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Take off the trim panel over at the driver's side. You will see connectors on the back side of that IPJB and can easily remove that connector for further inspection.

What year is this beast? The schematics vary with the years...

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Old 05-26-2019, 10:20 PM   #3
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Its a 2000 SL1 dream ride. Not sure how to pull back IPJB. Pic shows blackend end of purple wire going to blower relay pin 30.

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Old 05-26-2019, 10:22 PM   #4
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Pic follows:
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Old 05-26-2019, 10:42 PM   #5
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

If you are real lucky it is only the connector pin that cooked. Use the obious large search box at the top of the page and enter just F-5 and then search. This will cover the generic faults and how to fix the pin in the panel and the connector in that plug. DO NOT DISCONECT that plug without first disconnecting the battery negative as most of that is continiously energized.

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Old 05-27-2019, 02:00 AM   #6
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

switt, do these drawings help?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2000 SL1, SC1,SW1-1.jpg (141.4 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg power and grounding connectors-1.jpg (173.5 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg power and grounding connectors-2.jpg (150.2 KB, 5 views)

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Old 05-27-2019, 08:53 AM   #7
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by switt View Post
Its a 2000 SL1 dream ride. Not sure how to pull back IPJB. Pic shows blackend end of purple wire going to blower relay pin 30.
To pull the back of the IPJB, the IPJB block (1 of 3) in the photo you provided has a bolt in the center of it; undo that bolt and the entire block unplugs as a unit. You can then inspect the male and female pins that are associated to the issue you have.

OldNuc's suggestion to look up the f5 issue will get you lots of photos and videos. It is a similar problem but specific to pin F5 in a GEN2 S Series; the same issue in a GEN3 occurs at F2. Look a this post >> Post 1 of this thread Fixing the F5 Issue (No power in fusebox to chime, dome light, fuel pump)

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Last edited by trottida; 05-27-2019 at 08:59 AM..

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Old 05-27-2019, 12:12 PM   #8
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

The blower relay is a rather rare failure but it has happened and usually the damage can be cleaned up easily. You need to pull that connector block and get some good photos and then we can tell you exactly how to fix it. You will need connector bock face picture of the failing pin and of the /?P Panel socket matching pin.

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Old 05-27-2019, 02:47 PM   #9
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Thanks for all of the support. I have removed and cleaned the IPJB F-2 contact, still nothing. Was wiggling the relay and fan started blowing high, key in off position. I guess I manually tripped the blower switch in the relay and contacted D1 with F2. Therefore, I believe my IPJB is good. The blower motor resistor was removed and checked. Am now looking to the heater control or body control module, oh my. Any suggestions on that? Happy memorial day all.
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File Type: pdf 2000-2002BlowerMotorCircuit.pdf (49.1 KB, 5 views)

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Old 05-27-2019, 02:52 PM   #10
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Or perhaps I/P splice pack 1, what ever that is.

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Old 05-27-2019, 02:56 PM   #11
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by switt View Post
Or perhaps I/P splice pack 1, what ever that is.
I believe that is the ground splice pack but I could be wrong. I notice all the wires terminating there are black.

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Last edited by trottida; 05-27-2019 at 03:02 PM..

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Old 05-27-2019, 03:03 PM   #12
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Also, put in new relay and swapped with the fuel pump relay which is the same relay.

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Old 05-27-2019, 04:22 PM   #13
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

G206 is the direct ground follow the black wire from the blower motor, it is a single bolt to ground. The splice pack is the ground side of the relay energizing circuit. The relay only energizes for HIGH speed, it is denergized for all other speeds. The BCM signals it to close for HIGH sped only, all other speeds are controlled by the speed knob on the heater control.

Last edited by OldNuc; 05-27-2019 at 04:31 PM..

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Old 05-27-2019, 04:43 PM   #14
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

OK, checked A1, no wire coming from it but it is grounded. Therefore, think we can rule out splice pack 1. Jumped brn wire with others in fan control, nothing. Checked voltage to orange coming from BCM to fan control and nothing. Checked voltage at F1 coming from relay to BCM and nothing. According to my calculations, it must be the BCM. Anyone have another thoughts before messing with or replacing BCM?

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Old 05-27-2019, 06:05 PM   #15
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

A-1 is in the bottom row of the BLACK connector in the A vertical column. It is either on the left or right side as the vert. columns run A-F

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Old 05-27-2019, 06:24 PM   #16
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

I guess my nomenclature is wrong. My first pic shows empty ports to the right of purple. The second empty one is the ground which I meant. Am I sentanced to the BCM threads?

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Old 05-27-2019, 07:18 PM   #17
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

To have a better understanding of correlating wiring diagrams to relays, it might help to understand relay pinouts. Every 87A relay, either 4 or 5 pin uses the same configuration; pins 30 and 87 are electrical contacts inside relays - when the coil (pins 85 and 86 powers up from pcm or bcm command), send 12v power to a fan, horn, windshield wiper, etc.

If the purple wire is identified going to the blower motor, there are several reasons to cause overheating; motor drag, crimped terminals loosening, loose connections between male and female terminals, a short circuit condition
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File Type: jpg 87A-1 relay.jpg (53.7 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 87A relay drawing.jpg (63.5 KB, 3 views)

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Old 05-28-2019, 08:30 AM   #18
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

Understood. The fan went out a couple years ago and was replaced. F2 was probably melted then. I can energize the fan by manually switching the relay and the relay is new. I am afraid that this further defines my problem to be the BCM.

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Old 05-28-2019, 08:46 AM   #19
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

To operational test the blower HIGH switching the key must be in the ON position.

Verify the actual blower high switch at the HVAC control panel is providing the 12v signal to the BCM before going into the BCM replace as it is far from a plug and play exercise. Also verify you Do Not have the BCM output to pin F-1 at the black 68 pin connector. A filed internal relay contact assembly is not out of the question if the plastic cover ended up melting. Your I/P Panel may be shot.

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Old 05-28-2019, 09:47 AM   #20
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Default Re: Melted relay receptacle, 30, in fuse panel

I would not suspect the BCM unless either the melting was bad enough to cause shorts between relay pins or if jumpering during troubleshooting caused a short.
More likely you have an intermittent contact at the connector crimps.
If the failed blower had a high current draw caused by bad bearings or rubbing it resulted in over heating at the connector. Over time this will build up oxidation in the crimp or where the contact meets the blade terminal on the relay. Eventually the connection gets bad enough to get hot enough to melt the plastic. Replacing the relay doesnít fix the bad connection. Put a relay in the socket, key on, blower on high, and wiggle the wires and relay. If you can get the blower to run even briefly itís a bad connection not the BCM.
You will probably find the crimp on the connector where the melting took place is bad. The copper wire will be oxidized and black. All the black has to be cut off of the wire and a new terminal crimped on.

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