99 SL2 rebuild thread

[Waiex191]

The '99 rear suspension is good again. After my debacle on the '98, I was really worried about replacing the drag links. With new links, greased and anti-seized bolts, we should be good for another 20 years. I was happy with the quality of the Dorman parts.

[Waiex191]

Whoops - wrong car. Over to the '98 thread.

[Waiex191]

Check out this rotor:


What causes this? Poor quality rotors? Plenty of meat on the pads but the inside of the passenger rotor is trash.


The 3 other surfaces of the rotors are fine.

[OldNuc]

Sticking/dragging pins usually and less than top shelf rotor material. The inside almost always looks worse that the outside even when everything is letter perfect.

[Waiex191]

Interesting. We got new pins, boots, and used sylglide at the rebuild.

Hovercraft duct Bondo work and brakes:


We went with the same Centric brakes I used on the '98.

[Waiex191]

The kid came home for Thanksgiving and the left front bearing sounds horrible. I think over winter break we are going to replace it. While we are in there, it is time for new control arms and a stock clutch. Which nut needs to be replaced? Is it the big nut that screws onto the driveshaft, like the one just threaded on in the picture below?


We did not replace those nuts. Would it be worth it to re-torque that nut?

[Waiex191]

We re-torqued the nut. They were tight. Looks like new bearings are needed.

[Waiex191]

My new control arms, bearings, and nuts came in the mail.


SKF bearings made in Spain.

[Mark_b]

That is one job we have not had to do yet. I am sure my time will come.
Hope it goes well for you.

[Waiex191]

Thanks Mark!
My new, stock LUK clutch came in the mail today. I'll be glad to be rid of the stage 2 clutch.

[Waiex191]

The carnage has started. I'll have to get the livestream going.

[Waiex191]

Torn apart:


The snap ring was rusted in. Was a bear to get off.


We set it up in the EAA 1414 press.


The inner race came apart.


I modified a 3 arm puller to grab onto a small groove in the race. That didn't work. Then I dremeled a slot into the race, with the intention of splitting the bearing. It didn't split but it did spin and move out so I could pry it off. Sorry for the blurry picture.

[chris's sc1]

I havent read the whole thread but what's wrong with the stage 2 clutch. Just wondering because I wanted to get one

[Waiex191]

Originally Posted by chris's sc1

I havent read the whole thread but what's wrong with the stage 2 clutch. Just wondering because I wanted to get one

On initial startup, it was super grabby. When trying to do a normal engagement the whole motor would shake back and forth violently. Reverse was even worse. This was with all new factory mounts too. It took miles to wear in and the clutch engages way at the top of the travel. We have less than 20,000 miles on it and I am not sure how much longer it will last. The stage 2 clutch was the worst thing I've ever done.

Buy a stock clutch. Don't buy a stage 2.

Edit: here is the post.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...&postcount=279

Did I mention the stage 2 clutch sucks?

Edit 2: this post in my thread by OldNuc gives links to other reference threads.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...48&postcount=6

I read them all before I dove in. Was well worth the time.

[454cid]

Originally Posted by Waiex191

I modified a 3 arm puller to grab onto a small groove in the race. That didn't work. Then I dremeled a slot into the race, with the intention of splitting the bearing. It didn't split but it did spin and move out so I could pry it off. Sorry for the blurry picture.

You only bought the bearing, not the hub too? The whole kit isn't that expensive from Rockauto.

[Waiex191]

Originally Posted by 454cid

You only bought the bearing, not the hub too? The whole kit isn't that expensive from Rockauto.

Yep. In hindsight I probably would have bought the kit. Mainly because the new hubs look so nice.

[Waiex191]

Here Adam is making a tool for pressing out the old bearings. We also turned down one end to use it for installing the hubs.


This is the tool for pressing in the new bearings.


Our initial attempt was to use PVC to support the knuckle. That didn't work! Found my 3.25" Milwaukee holesaw was the perfect diameter. Tried to turn off the teeth, then tried to pare them off. Failed. Used it with the teeth.


Here is the setup in the press. The bearing let go with a bang.


Two empty knuckles.


One screwup:. On the first one we did not replace the race that was stuck on the hub before pressing out the bearing. Don't do that!

[Waiex191]

Adam sandblasted the hubs so we can put them in an oven. We still need to get the busted ABS sensor plastic stud out of both of them.


Here is a scene from a couple days ago. Adam was pulling the car apart, Matthew was making a new hovercraft skirt with our new Singer sewing machine, and I was keeping them from killing each other.
https://youtu.be/vTVEcLWx8yk

[454cid]

Originally Posted by Waiex191

Adam sandblasted the hubs so we can put them in an oven. We still need to get the busted ABS sensor plastic stud out of both of them.

Will you be freezing the bearings too? I saw a video the other day where a guy put his new bearing in the freezer over night....he did not heat the knuckle.

I would really like to blast my knuckles because they are so incredibly crusty looking.

[Waiex191]

We will freeze both the knuckles and bearings. After the knuckle and bearing assembly has stabilized I can see heating them up to 150 F together.