fuel lines

[Tyson]

Has anyone cut off just the roughly 2 feet of rusty fuel line and replaced it with pressurized rubber hose? Instead of replacing the whole line itself? I know it sounds cheap, but right now I don't have the money or time to do the whole thing. So I was wondering if this idea would get me through this next 6-7 months?

[fdryer]

If you are describing the main fuel pipe from the nozzle to tank, this line might be repaired with a length of plain fuel hose of the same outside diameter as the steel pipe. There's very little pressure on this pipe as the evap system checks for vapor pressure and vacuum to detect leaks. Vapor pressure is below 5 psi, vacuum less than 10 in hg or something like (negative) -2 psi. A combination low pressure/vacuum sensor on top of the tank measures values needed to ensure fuel vapors aren't released into the atmosphere as part of emissions control. Vapors are stored in the charcoal canister then drawn into the intake air system when the engine's running. If you can measure the outside diameter of the fuel pipe, try finding a rubber fuel resistant hose with the inside diameter matching the OD of the fuel pipe. Plain worm clamps will work. The smaller diameter steel vent pipe may be replaced the same way, measuring outside diameter to find a fuel resistant hose with the inside diameter to match. Both hoses slip over their respective steel pipes with clamps. This isn't recommended in any service manual but reality comes into play with certain precautions to ensure safety as this is a temporary fuel system repair and not recommended as a permanent one.

[Tyson]

Originally Posted by fdryer

If you are describing the main fuel pipe from the nozzle to tank, this line might be repaired with a length of plain fuel hose of the same outside diameter as the steel pipe. There's very little pressure on this pipe as the evap system checks for vapor pressure and vacuum to detect leaks. Vapor pressure is below 5 psi, vacuum less than 10 in hg or something like (negative) -2 psi. A combination low pressure/vacuum sensor on top of the tank measures values needed to ensure fuel vapors aren't released into the atmosphere as part of emissions control. Vapors are stored in the charcoal canister then drawn into the intake air system when the engine's running. If you can measure the outside diameter of the fuel pipe, try finding a rubber fuel resistant hose with the inside diameter matching the OD of the fuel pipe. Plain worm clamps will work. The smaller diameter steel vent pipe may be replaced the same way, measuring outside diameter to find a fuel resistant hose with the inside diameter to match. Both hoses slip over their respective steel pipes with clamps. This isn't recommended in any service manual but reality comes into play with certain precautions to ensure safety as this is a temporary fuel system repair and not recommended as a permanent one.

yeah I was going to make sure the correct diameters and whatnot. I was hoping you'd say this would work. I just don't have the money nor the time to do the real thing. Hopefully sometime next spring. Or if we have a decent winter, I'll do it then. Thanks

[neurotopia]

Originally Posted by Tyson

yeah I was going to make sure the correct diameters and whatnot. I was hoping you'd say this would work. I just don't have the money nor the time to do the real thing. Hopefully sometime next spring. Or if we have a decent winter, I'll do it then. Thanks

Have you considered seeing if there's a yard or a Pull-A-Part near you? Often times you can find a part you need off a similar car for pretty cheap. I know that fuel sender assembly is prone to rusting out and the replacements are all like 180 or 200 bucks on RockAuto. You can probably go pull one off a Saturn at the yard for 30 if it is still usable.

[rfisher]

hi sages- do appreciate what po Tyson says. as a brutha po man and shysterism exposer, I have tried these frugal repairs a lot since the war and with a near 100% success rate. there is a supa durable fuel hose from gates which will perfectly do this. the worm gear clamps are good. btw priced through my sources the metal fuel line repair , found out 800 buckidos. this gates hose im talking about is used for submerged rubber fuel lines since most gas pumps now are inside the tank. clamps and a length of hose should be about $10. it has fuel resistant sheaths inside and outside the hose. put one in my old volvo 240 10 years ago and no problem since. I would recommend using that . and don't get shystered. good luck bob f

[Tyson]

[QUOTE=fdryer;2304301]If you are describing the main fuel pipe from the nozzle to tank, this line might be repaired with a length of plain fuel hose of the same outside diameter as the steel pipe. There's very little pressure on this pipe as the evap system checks for vapor pressure and vacuum to detect leaks. Vapor pressure is below 5 psi, vacuum less than 10 in hg or something like (negative) -2 psi. A combination low pressure/vacuum sensor on top of the tank measures values needed to ensure fuel vapors aren't released into the atmosphere as part of emissions control. Vapors are stored in the charcoal canister then drawn into the intake air system when the engine's running. If you can measure the outside diameter of the fuel pipe, try finding a rubber fuel resistant hose with the inside diameter matching the OD of the fuel pipe. Plain worm clamps will work. The smaller diameter steel vent pipe may be replaced the same way, measuring outside diameter to find a fuel resistant hose with the inside diameter to match. Both hoses slip over their respective steel pipes with clamps. This isn't recommended in any service manual but reality comes into play with certain precautions to ensure safety as this is a temporary fuel system repair and not recommended as a permanent one

Thank you for the help. I will buy some tubing tomorrow. I was hoping it wasn’t the filler neck. I doubt it. Would you say that vent line is 5/16 or 1/4? I’m pretty sure it’s 5/16 just wanted to be sure

[fdryer]

I don't remember or recall diameter size for the small line. You have several ways to address size; cut the line, sand/file off all rust to have the original outside diameter and bring it to a store having fuel resistant hose (call ahead if possible to ensure they have both sizes) so you can make a trial fit to determine the right size, buy two lengths of each size or carefully measure the OD of the line. Small diameters can be eyeballed by holding a 6-inch ruler or tape measure behind the line so the line is super imposed on the ruler. Eyeballing diameter from a distance of a foot or more should be good enough to differentiate between a 1/4 and 5/16 dimensions. The markings on a ruler simply brackets both side of the small tube to give you good measurements. American dimensions are easier to measure compared to metric sizes.