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Old 05-23-2019, 01:01 AM   #1
454cid
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Default First Post 2000 SL2

Hello, new here. I've driven a 4x4 Chevy truck for the last 20 years.

I've got a 2000 SL2 that I've recently gotten from my sister to use as a commuter car. It hasn't been driven in about a year, so it's going to need a few things. Brakes for sure, a mis addressed which I'm working on now.

First thing I've got to ask... has anyone come up with anything better than that stupid sheetmetal bracket for the battery hold down? It's huge, complicated to remove/install, and doesn't even do a good job of holding the battery in place.

While working on the car today, I found part of a chicken bone on the bell housing

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Old 05-23-2019, 06:57 AM   #2
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Welcome to the forum! Both my saturns have the stock battery hold down and it works well. Maybe you have a different battery? It is a bit of a pain to remove, with three bolts but I don't have to pull it very often. My '98 paid for itself in a year compared to driving my truck. That included a lot of new brake parts.

...
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:29 AM   #3
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Welcome aboard.

This is a great forum and the know-how is second to none.

Since this is your first Saturn this is a great place to start:
http://saturnfans3.saturnfans.com/~s...d.php?t=177672

As far as the miss, the SL2's are know to burn the exhaust valves on cylinder #3 so a compression test should be first on your list.

Good luck and post away...

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Old 05-23-2019, 10:31 AM   #4
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

If you use ( like I do) a pneumatic ratchet - all three bolts are 10 mm head. First remove the one on the firewall. Then the top one. Then move the air intake hose to the side - and add a 10 inch or longer extension to the air ratchet. Remove the inboard bottom bolt and use the bracket to lift it out.

Neverseize all threads and reverse for reassembly.

Whole operation under 1 minute.

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Old 05-23-2019, 07:12 PM   #5
454cid
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Highmile View Post
As far as the miss, the SL2's are know to burn the exhaust valves on cylinder #3 so a compression test should be first on your list.
Fantastic... does the fact that the miss comes and goes eliminate the valves?

I've been pursuing ignition since I pulled the cam sensor codes.

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Old 05-23-2019, 07:16 PM   #6
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Quote:
Originally Posted by onlinebiker View Post
If you use ( like I do) a pneumatic ratchet - all three bolts are 10 mm head. First remove the one on the firewall. Then the top one. Then move the air intake hose to the side - and add a 10 inch or longer extension to the air ratchet. Remove the inboard bottom bolt and use the bracket to lift it out.

Neverseize all threads and reverse for reassembly.

Whole operation under 1 minute.
No pneumatics here. That deficiently would have helped on the fender bolt (I assume that's what you meant by firewall, unless other years have a different bracket). I had no room to swing the 1/4" ratchet.

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Old 05-23-2019, 08:23 PM   #7
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Quote:
Originally Posted by 454cid View Post
I've been pursuing ignition since I pulled the cam sensor codes.
Cam codes is typically fancy spark plugs. I'd get a set of NGK BKR5ESA11 plugs and maybe fresh wires before I got too crazy.

...
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'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
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'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018

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Old 05-24-2019, 07:55 AM   #8
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiex191 View Post
Cam codes is typically fancy spark plugs. I'd get a set of NGK BKR5ESA11 plugs and maybe fresh wires before I got too crazy.
I think the plugs and wires I pulled were original. I bought the NGK V-power....BKR5E11.

The coils are kinda rusty, too. I figured I'd change the wires, and plugs, and clean up the mounting area, and go from there.

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Old 05-24-2019, 07:56 AM   #9
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waiex191 View Post
Welcome to the forum! Both my saturns have the stock battery hold down and it works well. Maybe you have a different battery?
It looks like it's the right size, but there is enough room between the bracket and the battery top such that it slides around a bit. If I had a piece of foam, I'd stick it under the bracket. I was surprised when I saw this hold-down. I'm used to the plastic wedge/block that my truck uses... so simple, and the battery doesn't move at all. I know GM wanted to be different with Saturn during this era, but I would have thought they'd use proven designs for things here and there.

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Old 05-24-2019, 10:42 AM   #10
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Quote:
Originally Posted by 454cid View Post
It looks like it's the right size, but there is enough room between the bracket and the battery top such that it slides around a bit. If I had a piece of foam, I'd stick it under the bracket. I was surprised when I saw this hold-down. I'm used to the plastic wedge/block that my truck uses... so simple, and the battery doesn't move at all.
Yeah, that plastic wedge is pretty common, works well, and fewer bolts to deal with.

None of my Saturns' batteries could move much at all with the bracket in place. Haven't looked at it in a while but I think the hold down strap went between two raised plastic covers (that you used to use to open up and add water back in the old days before maintenance free)

Quote:
I know GM wanted to be different with Saturn during this era, but I would have thought they'd use proven designs for things here and there.
There's a few design quirks that make me think "proven design" were not part of the process

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Old 05-24-2019, 02:22 PM   #11
Highmile
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

Quote:
Originally Posted by 454cid View Post
Fantastic... does the fact that the miss comes and goes eliminate the valves?

I've been pursuing ignition since I pulled the cam sensor codes.
I would say yes but for the few minutes it take to run the test it's worth it to get an overall feel for the condition of the engine.

Sounds like it's way overdue for plugs and wires. Some scotchbright on the coil connection if it's rusty. If the coils are rusty on the outside I wouldn't be too worried. Then spark test the coils by having someone else crank the engine while you observe the spark between the towers with the plug wires off. Should look like a lightening bolt between them. If it's yellowish or anything other than an almost straight line between them then the coils are done.

Highmile
'95 SL1 685k and counting

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Old 05-24-2019, 10:02 PM   #12
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Default Re: First Post 2000 SL2

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Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
There's a few design quirks that make me think "proven design" were not part of the process
Interesting that I'm finding that the PCV grommet apparently goes back to the 80's Cavalier and Sunbird.

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