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Old 03-29-2015, 01:32 PM   #61
J N Winkler
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1994 SL2
Default Re: Oil Filter Location

This question is somewhat off-topic, but still deals with oil change procedure. Do Saturns come with a drain plug washer that has to be replaced at each oil change, like Toyotas?

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Old 03-29-2015, 01:43 PM   #62
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Originally Posted by J N Winkler View Post
This question is somewhat off-topic, but still deals with oil change procedure. Do Saturns come with a drain plug washer that has to be replaced at each oil change, like Toyotas?
OEM had a washer that IIRC was impregnated into the metal washer on our car. I use the nylon or rubber washers when I do changes. The brass ones work as well. I personally like the nylon washers, as they are good for 3-4 changes without leaks. The last time I went they didn't have the multiple packs of them, so I picked up the rubber ones.

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Old 03-29-2015, 01:58 PM   #63
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Thanks for this. I suspect I will have to hunt down these washers. I didn't replace it on the last oil change (my last car, on which I had accumulated 100% of my DIY oil change experience to that point, did not require washer replacement), and didn't get the drain bolt gorilla-tight. (What is the nominal torque value, by the way?)

I doubt a through-the-bolt leak is a large contributor to my oil consumption (presently around 1400 MPQ), but I have had to get under the car recently for alternator R&R and the oil pan looks a lot wetter with oil than it did before the last oil change.

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Old 03-29-2015, 02:34 PM   #64
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

The drain plug washer, which also fits the transmission drain plug is a Dorman part and it is listed by RockAuto under engine > Oil Drain Plug Gasket, DORMAN Part # 097115 Buy a bunch as they have a very short service life.

With a new rubber washer when the outer edge of the plug contacts the pan it is tight enough. FSM is 20ft-lb.

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Old 03-29-2015, 05:54 PM   #65
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I'm not discounting anything you guys are saying...however, in the 2 years I've owned this great car, i've done 18 Oil changes and never even looked at the drain plug gasket. It seals perfectly. Dry as a bone. Maybe I should take one from a JY Saturn. They seemed to have gotten this right. (among other things)

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Old 03-29-2015, 07:07 PM   #66
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Next time you change oil take a look at the other side of the plug. It just might be sealing on the very distorted insert. The plug insert in the pan should have its face flush with the pan external surface.

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Old 03-29-2015, 10:17 PM   #67
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Changed my oil today along with a bunch of other things so I had the back wheels on ramps and the front on stands and the oil did drain almost perfectly from the frame and axle!

A couple drops got around just from the oil that was in the filter but that little ledge under the filter is amazing now that I know its there Ill change oil on a level car from now on.

As for the plug washer mine has a washer that stays on the plug I doubt its even been changed by the look of it maybe I will save that for the next change.

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Old 04-04-2015, 05:41 PM   #68
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I changed my oil earlier today, having picked up a three-pack of Dorman drain plug washers at O'Reilly under part number 65327 instead of 097-115. (I think the difference is in packaging or marketing line since the dimensions and listed applications are identical. I wound up getting it at O'Reilly because their website was the only one of the chain FLAPS in this town that listed 097-115, let alone an alternate that was in stock.) I put my car on ramps for this job.

I am not sure the washer in my drain plug was ever changed. It was gray, made either of rubber or flexible plastic, and the outer edge was thoroughly shredded. The plug was loose (just past finger-tight) and I am now pretty sure I had a slow leak through it. I replaced it with one of the Dorman washers and from now on I plan to replace the washer at every oil change. I torqued the drain bolt to 20 ft-lb using a Harbor Freight click-type wrench. (Keeping in mind the criticism heaped on click-type wrenches in parallel threads, I tried tightening it further with a long-handled ratchet, and was not able to get it to budge, though I didn't really try to gorilla it.)

I had an empty oil bottle and box cutter on hand, and looked into the possibility of using one to cut the other into a drain spout. I did not feel it was feasible, largely because the rear splash shield has a ridge that runs close to the filter and, I felt, would conflict with a cut-down oil bottle that was a bit wider than the filter itself. Also, once I got the oil filter loose and the bottle in place to intercept oil leaking out of the filter and mount, the bottle would be in my way and sending down a stream perfectly placed to hit either my shirt or right arm as I took the filter off the stud with my left.

In the end, I positioned the drain pan to intercept oil running off the cradle, broke the filter loose with filter pliers (I had only hand-tightened it when installing it but didn't have enough leverage to work it loose with just my left hand), and simply spun it off the stud, raising it quickly to limit spillage out of the open end. I mopped up the spillage on the cradle etc. with paper towels. Drips fell into the drain pan.

When I finished the job, I was left with five quarter-sized oil stains on the driveway, and one larger (but less oil-soaked) patch about the size of a child's hand. This is much better than the first change, which resulted in a napkin-sized mess, and cleaned up well with Palmolive and some running water from a garden hose. But there is still room for improvement.

I swapped out Mobil 1 HM 5W-30 and a Fram XG3614 in favor of Red Line and a Wix 51516XP. The Red Line is an experiment to see if the ester basestock will help free stuck piston rings and reduce oil consumption. I did not realize, until I was putting away the empties, that the Red Line I had purchased was actually 10W-30 instead of 5W-30.

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Old 04-04-2015, 06:35 PM   #69
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

At the temps you will experience for the next 6 months plus the 10w-30 will hurt nothing at all, That little drain trough only works when the car is level front to back and maybe the right side is a bit higher than the left. If you remove the rear splash shield after removing wheel and then lower car to left right level and have it parked on a level surface the little drain rail works fine.

If you want to use ramps then go to Farm & Fleet, Tractor Supply or some other farm store and get the largest hog pan, it holds about 5 gallons, and a large metal funnel to allow directed draining of the hog pan. The standard metal hog pan is easily repurposed into may useful items and they are dirt cheap.

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Old 04-04-2015, 10:49 PM   #70
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by shim bucket View Post
I had to replace both lower control arms on my daughters 145,000 mile SL2. The driver side had to be cut apart with a carbide at the inner end to remove due to rust. The passenger side was under oil soaked soil- oil that ran down from unscrewing the filter during this cars life. Passenger side came out super easy. One benefit of the OF location in my case.
^^^ this. It's part of my rust prevention program.

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Old 04-06-2015, 12:51 PM   #71
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
At the temps you will experience for the next 6 months plus the 10w-30 will hurt nothing at all, That little drain trough only works when the car is level front to back and maybe the right side is a bit higher than the left. If you remove the rear splash shield after removing wheel and then lower car to left right level and have it parked on a level surface the little drain rail works fine.

If you want to use ramps then go to Farm & Fleet, Tractor Supply or some other farm store and get the largest hog pan, it holds about 5 gallons, and a large metal funnel to allow directed draining of the hog pan. The standard metal hog pan is easily repurposed into may useful items and they are dirt cheap.
Thanks for the reassurance that 10W-30 won't cause any problems in the near future. It was my intention to purchase 5W-30 so I could ignore seasonal temperatures in setting an extended drain interval. However, I opted to buy from Autobahn Power (a tuning shop that is the only distributor in town that carries the full range of Red Line products) instead of ordering online, to save shipping. They have a bell on their door and I was dealing with someone who came to answer it instead of double-checking bottle labels, like I should have. In the spirit of lemonade out of lemons . . . road trip!

I have a question about the drain rail. If the car is on ramps and the oil filter is loosened just enough that there is a thin stream from the mount into the drain rail, what things does the oil hit as it drains down from the rail? I am trying to figure out whether it might be expedient to go for a slow drain (covering whatever is in the way) versus raising car, taking off wheel, setting cradle on a block of wood cut to ride height, removing splash shield, etc.

I am keeping the suggestion re. metal hog pan and funnel in mind for future experimentation. This time I used what I had to hand:



Best performance so far in terms of oil splatter:

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Old 04-06-2015, 01:15 PM   #72
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

If you are on ramps the oil overflows the right end and side of the drain trough and falls on the CV joint and where it goes depends on the degree of level as it runs off the CV joint. Best thing is a close fitting plastic sleeve that covers the entire CV and bellows with a lower lip that directs oil towards the center of the car where it will fall into drain pan. Using long filters and punching a hole in the bottom side will allow oil to drain into a pan and miss everything. The close fitting shield can be made from a tall quart polyethylene bottle and the right side and bottom turned into a deflection lip with the judicious use of a heat gun. The oil will tend to follow the plastic so you can get it to clear the bottom of the car and keep it off the frame and CV joint.

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Old 04-06-2015, 03:45 PM   #73
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I'll chime in on this oldie too. My S oil change really makes me love our L even more. Every company should design their cars so oil changes could be that easy.

We just bought a 2015 Subaru Outback and I'm probably the only shopper that ever went in and checked for filter location and drain bolt. They thought I was kind of goofy. LOL! The Subaru looks as easy or 'easier' than our L (filter up top). Oh the joy.

Back to the S...I had to do an oil change after a gorilla at the dealership had at it, soon after we bought it. He had drenched my CV joint boot with oil and put the filter on so tight that it was crushing under the strap type wrench when I tried to remove it.

In an emergency, I finally had to drill 3 small holes in the strap and install 3 small bolts that were tightened on with nuts. I knew it would puncture (that was the plan) and unfortunately, make a big mess, but it was the only way to get it off. I had to clean up the boot anyway.

I've done my own oil changes ever since. I just loosen the filter a little at a time until none pours out as I remove it. CV boot remains clean to this day.

Andy

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Old 04-06-2015, 11:48 PM   #74
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Screw all the high tech methods of trying to never spill a drop from the oil filter.

I take some newspaper and lay it below the filter on top of the half shaft, CV area, etc. Take the filter off quick, wad up the paper and move on with life. It actually doesn't both me if a little oil drips down as I use a large sheet of coroplast (plastic cardboard) under the car to catch any drips.

I usually do some degreasing in the wheel well area when I do a change, so anything that did make it to the frame rails would be washed off anyway.

For the oil, I've used ammo cans for years. They have an air and water tight seal, so I can just close them up and take them to the oil recycling place. If they tip over in the back of the car, they won't leak.

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Old 04-07-2015, 08:53 AM   #75
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Yep, laying out newspaper works great in the parts of the country where the prevailing wind is 10 mph or higher.

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Old 04-07-2015, 11:50 AM   #76
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I have actually thought about doing a Dexter and laying down a shower curtain or plastic sheeting weighed down with bricks. If I had done this on the last oil change, I would have intercepted 100% of the oil. I think the bits of splatter I had on the driveway were a result of taking off the oil pan drain bolt (I did not have a smooth transition to streamline flow and actually wound up with two very thin streams of oil on the outside of the drain pan) and the wind picking up drops of oil draining out of the oil pan and off the cradle.

I use milk jugs since I don't shoot (though I would like to learn how), and have a box I use to prevent tipover. I do want to repurpose used nut cans for storage of chamois cloth used to filter used oil, since I suspect I will be saving the Red Line currently in the crankcase when I come to the end of the drain interval (which I will probably try to run out to 9,000 miles depending on lab results).

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Old 04-07-2015, 05:16 PM   #77
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

The wind where you are is quite capable of blowing the drain oil stream into a fine fog with no warning.

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Old 04-08-2015, 07:47 AM   #78
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Yep, laying out newspaper works great in the parts of the country where the prevailing wind is 10 mph or higher.
Well you do have to be smarter than the newspaper. I hope you're not feeling left out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by J N Winkler View Post
I have actually thought about doing a Dexter and laying down a shower curtain or plastic sheeting weighed down with bricks. If I had done this on the last oil change, I would have intercepted 100% of the oil. I think the bits of splatter I had on the driveway were a result of taking off the oil pan drain bolt (I did not have a smooth transition to streamline flow and actually wound up with two very thin streams of oil on the outside of the drain pan) and the wind picking up drops of oil draining out of the oil pan and off the cradle.
By using the coroplast I pick up all the drips on the plastic, then wipe them off after pulling it out from under the car. It also gives a little cushion on the back, knees, etc since I don't use a creeper. Once I toss the tools and ammo can on it the wind won't grab it even on a windy day.

And even though it's more of a pain to get the drain bolt out, the extra height of the ammo can keeps the oil from blowing around as much once it gets down to a thin stream. A couple wood blocks to lift up your type drain catch closer to the pan would work even better.

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Old 04-08-2015, 09:05 AM   #79
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Well you do have to be smarter than the newspaper. I hope you're not feeling left out.

Nope, just reading the morning funnies where someone with little to no knowledge of the environmental conditions in southeast Kansas turn a simple oil change into a major all day evolution and a hazardous material spill. Keep going I need the morning laugh.

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Old 05-19-2019, 12:46 AM   #80
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Yup!

You can even do it with the car on the ground. Just turn the wheel all the way to the left and remove the plastic shroud, you'll have enough room.
Nice I will try this!!! Thanks!!!

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