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Old 03-10-2015, 02:26 PM   #41
Tiger
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

The Fumoto valve drains slower since the stream of oil is smaller. So I will drain oil tomorrow after driving in 60+ degree temps. It is 90% less messy than a drain plug and convienient. That outweighs getting every drop of contaminents drained.

The question I had initially is if it affects engine longevity? I started using it after Luke reported using one 500,000 miles on a Volvo and on his 95 SL2 that went 650,000 miles. He also used one for automatic transmission. I have used mine over 100,000 miles.

When I burnt valve #3 at 219,00 I had a used engine put in. I did use a drain plug first few oil changes. If it is a concern to get all the junk out you can always remove it like a drain plug every once in a while. I doubt it will have much impact, but you can do it.

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Old 03-10-2015, 03:12 PM   #42
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Hmmm. Seems to be going all right for an ancient resurrected thread.

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Old 03-26-2015, 08:28 AM   #43
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I also found this thread from the search tool, since its already been resurrected I don't feel bad posting in it. I always thought I was doing something wrong when it came to oil changes because of how it spills all over the subframe and axle, glad to know its not just me. I'm going to be doing my oil soon I'll try jacking up the rear as well, anything to save me the 10-15 min of trying to clean all the oil off the frame.

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Old 03-26-2015, 11:52 AM   #44
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Has anyone tried loosening the filter, and then turning it back in just tight enough to get the leaking oil down to a little stream that runs through the drain scupper under the filter and into the pan? Does that work at all?

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Old 03-26-2015, 12:15 PM   #45
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

That scupper only works if the car is dead level from to back and left to right, basically up on a lift. If using an extended filter it is possible to drain the filter can by using a heavy awl to poke a hole in the bottom end of the filter can which will drain into a pan and miss everything when the car is up on ramps. Punch another hole up as high as you can on the end to vent it off so it will rapidly drain. Give it about 1/2 hr to drain. Then take off the filter.

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Old 03-26-2015, 01:13 PM   #46
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I use ramps and the current filter is regular-sized, so it doesn't sound like either approach will work for the upcoming oil change. I'm tempted to try a cut-down quart oil bottle per the Richpin video, but I wonder how much of the bottom I have to leave on so that the bottle will wedge under the scupper at an incline that is just large enough to drain smoothly.

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Old 03-26-2015, 01:31 PM   #47
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Thin and it is hard to make it work. Go buy a WIX 51516XP or M1-209 they work better at filtering.

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Old 03-26-2015, 07:40 PM   #48
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
...it is possible to drain the filter can by using a heavy awl to poke a hole in the bottom end of the filter can which will drain into a pan...
Or, a cordless drill. I do that with the F 3-fiddy pick-up. --Less oil dripping off my elbow that way and less tendency to drop the filter into the pan that was messy

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Old 03-26-2015, 09:03 PM   #49
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

**NOTE**: If you opt for the above procedure, FIRST give the filter a twist, make sure it will at least come loose, before poking a hole in it. 'Course, if you change your own oil, this is never a problem. But if its last oil change was at Iffy Lube or the like, that filter could be gorilla-torqued on, and the last thing you want to do is render the car undriveable.

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Or, a cordless drill. I do that with the F 3-fiddy pick-up. --Less oil dripping off my elbow that way and less tendency to drop the filter into the pan that was messy
This is why I always use a "sticky" (dipped) work glove to spin off the filter. MUCH less likely to lose grip of it. Is this a gasser or diesel? Fortunately on the diesels, the filter points almost straight down, so little to no oil drizzles down the side of the filter as you remove it. Just have to quickly one-eighty it over the pan to let it drain. I also use one of those solid-top pans with the fill hole in the middle, so if either the filter or the plug fall on it, no big mess.

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Old 03-26-2015, 09:26 PM   #50
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
I also use one of those solid-top pans with the fill hole in the middle, so if either the filter or the plug fall on it, no big mess.
Ha!

A couple oil changes ago I did my oil change with this type drain pan. Guess where the drain plug went bolt down? Now that was high entertainment!

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Old 03-26-2015, 09:35 PM   #51
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I never wanted the oil in the drill. Old screwdrivers are raw material for special tools including heavy duty awls. Punching holes in filters is easy.

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Old 03-26-2015, 11:13 PM   #52
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Quote:
Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
...This is why I always use a "sticky" (dipped) work glove to spin off the filter. MUCH less likely to lose grip of it. Is this a gasser or diesel? Fortunately on the diesels, the filter points almost straight down, so little to no oil drizzles down the side of the filter as you remove it. Just have to quickly one-eighty it over the pan to let it drain. I also use one of those solid-top pans with the fill hole in the middle, so if either the filter or the plug fall on it, no big mess.
It's a diesel. The big pipe on the side (oil cooler/oil pump gallery?) holds lots and runs out the oil filter hole...
Quote:
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I never wanted the oil in the drill. Old screwdrivers are raw material for special tools including heavy duty awls. Punching holes in filters is easy.
3/8"-dia hole in the side at the bottom.

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Old 03-26-2015, 11:57 PM   #53
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

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Originally Posted by NWSaturn247 View Post
A couple oil changes ago I did my oil change with this type drain pan. Guess where the drain plug went bolt down? Now that was high entertainment!
I am not sure if the design has changed since you bought your closed drain pan, but I bought one last October (3.75-gallon capacity) for the first DIY oil change on my Saturn and the stopper is permanently attached to the drain hole, so the drain bolt cannot fall into the inside of the pan. However, if the stopper is not positioned correctly, the oil will fill and overflow the dimple before it falls through the hole, as I know from bitter experience.

This is the current version of this pan:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-...n-Pan/20440558

I have used it for two oil changes and one ATF change, and I am frankly not impressed with it. The drain dimple is hard to clean, and prevents the pan being suspended spout down over a funnel for overnight draining into a waste oil receptacle. The stopper (at least on my pan) has pits molded into it that collect oil and cannot easily be cleaned out. There is an air valve on one side to allow air to bleed out as oil flows in through the central drain hole; it won't stay snapped shut and it leaks oil if the pan is held spout down. The spout leaks oil through the cap--not a large amount, but enough to stain the garage floor underneath, and to run down the side of the pan and foul the bottom (further staining the floor) through capillary action.

After some thought, I purchased this 5-gallon pan, since it had no closed interior surfaces that would be difficult to clean:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/f...5mi/89011620-P

It has a pour spout, which makes it convenient to pour oil into waste bottles (I use old milk jugs) for transport to the county household hazardous waste facility the next time it is open after an oil change. I have already successfully used this pan for a "half" transmission fluid change on a Camry ("half" because I didn't replace the drain bolt washer and tried to get away with using a hex key instead of a proper hex socket and torque wrench to tighten the drain bolt, so it leaked, and I had to go back, drain the fluid, fix and tighten the drain bolt, filter the fluid, and pour it back into the transmission). I would like to use it for the next oil change, suspending it spout down over a funnel and waste oil bottle to get as much of the old oil out as I can before I wash it with dish soap and hot water.

When I had an old Maxima, I used a version of this:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-...n-Pan/20440557

It had a drain screen which intercepted the drain bolt, which was convenient. The draining area is however too small to handle the drain hole and filter mount at the same time. I would not use it now with a Saturn or, for that matter, the Maxima if I still had it. I was less environmentally conscious back in those days, and simply parked the car in the street when I had to do an oil change and let the old oil drip directly onto the asphalt out of the filter mount.

Nowadays I am trying to follow zero-drip, zero-spill, zero-stain, zero-smear, zero-skin-contact procedure. (I know it's hard not to laugh.)

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Old 03-27-2015, 08:57 AM   #54
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

Wipes clean with a couple of paper towels. Large enough that splashes from falling drain plugs are captured. Easy storage. Low cost. http://www.truevalue.com/product/hog...als-/47975.uts
This will get the drained oil into the final container. http://www.behrensmfg.com/products/f...l-with-screen/ also easy clean.

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Old 03-27-2015, 01:24 PM   #55
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

What I like about the FloTool five-gallon pan is that it has a proper pouring spout and a handle that allows it to be suspended over a funnel and waste container (using a hook, clothes rack, etc.). It also has an inside rim, which increases the margin of error against accidental spills.

I am thinking of improvising a draining frame and investing in some cheap meal trays ($3 each from Walmart) to use as pouring and draining platforms and also as temporary storage for filled waste oil bottles before they are taken in for recycling.

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Old 03-27-2015, 02:16 PM   #56
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

The link was to a 3.5 gallon hog pan but there are 4+ gallon sizes and with a bit of skill they are self draining into catch containers. Used oil is filtered and then used in all the small 4 cycle engines. Excess goes into the oil furnace. Plastic pans eventually become filthy and contaminate good used oil or spontaneously crack.

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Old 03-27-2015, 02:43 PM   #57
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

What do you use to filter the used oil? In another thread you mentioned the possibility of removing solids using a home centrifuge--is this something you also do? Don't the PAHs in used oil elevate the risk of re-use?

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Old 03-27-2015, 03:43 PM   #58
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I just purchased my second one of these:http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/12l-oil-.../6000001798710
The first one lasted me 10 years.

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Old 03-27-2015, 04:13 PM   #59
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I run it through a layer of chamois skin. Oil samples say it is still perfectly fine oil. Have not dug up a pump to allow running a good centrifuge. Samples do not show any particulate.

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Old 03-29-2015, 11:28 AM   #60
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Default Re: Oil Filter Location

I had to replace both lower control arms on my daughters 145,000 mile SL2. The driver side had to be cut apart with a carbide at the inner end to remove due to rust. The passenger side was under oil soaked soil- oil that ran down from unscrewing the filter during this cars life. Passenger side came out super easy. One benefit of the OF location in my case.

Last edited by shim bucket; 03-29-2015 at 11:35 AM..

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