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Old 10-31-2018, 10:15 AM   #181
OldNuc
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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1998 SC2
Default Re: and so it begins....

Gen-2 gauge indication vs. actual temperature

GAGE Reading..........ECTS Temperature..........Event
.....1/4.................................150 F
.....3/8.................................192 F...................T-stat cracks open
.....3/8+................................195 F
.....1/2.................................212 F
.....9/16................................221 F...................Fan ON
.....7/16................................210 F...................Fan OFF coast to 205 F

NOTE. gauge mechanical accuracy is +/- needle width.

The Gen-3 is a digital signal that is used to drive the cluster indicator. The Gen-1 is a nonlinear gauge.

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Old 11-08-2018, 12:30 AM   #182
trottida
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

More updates to the 99 SL2. I installed seat heaters in it a couple weekends ago.

I had done a write up for my other car some time ago and I took the time to enhance that thread with photo instructions on how to set up the switched power from the UHJB. The thread is called Seat heater install with pictures.... and the post showing how to set up the fused and switched power wire from the UHJB is within Post 8.

Here are some photos of the switch location from that post to document this upgrade




...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 11-08-2018, 09:28 AM   #183
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2002 SC2
1998 SL2
Default Re: and so it begins....

Nice job on the install!

...
I'm not worthy to grovel in the shadow of Signmaster's wisdom

11/2016 red 2002 5 spd SC2 141k DD
7/2010 Craigslist white 1997 SC2 project
12/2008 eBay silver 1998 SL2 5 spd 102k, now 201k+ miles

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Old 01-14-2019, 12:25 PM   #184
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Replaced the left front hub/wheel bearing assembly. Timken hub/bearing assembly was replaced under warranty with 11 mo & 16,280 km usage. The right one is still the same that was in the car when I bought it and I've put almost 40K on it.

The SL2 is chugging along just fine....



255,779
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Mileage January 2019.JPG (35.1 KB, 78 views)

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

Last edited by trottida; 01-14-2019 at 12:31 PM..

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Old 02-21-2019, 12:03 PM   #185
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

So just over two years later I had a re-occurrence of the weird no start condition from the quotes below earlier in this thread (post#138-147). Exact same circumstance, snowy mild day, started car, moved it, turned it off and it sat for a few days while we were out of town. When I went to start it, it started for a few seconds and stalled out. Had a hard time getting it going again but it finally started but was rough for a minute and smoothed out. It think we decided it was a stuck valve or two last time.

Otherwise, the SL2 is running great under brutal winter weather conditions this year. Extreme polar vortex cold starts and lots of snow.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
Experience a weird no start condition the other day on the 99 SL2.

It had sat for 4 days in mild winter conditions with about 6 inches of snowfall. Before cleaning off the snow I decided to start it to let it run for a few minutes.

I engaged the starter and it started up like normal with no hesitation, ran for about 3 seconds then quit. I engaged the starter again and while I could hear the starter running and light puff puff puff from the exhaust the engine did not turn over - it sounded quiet or weak. I believe I ended up flooding the engine before I thought to push the accelerator to the floor. I left it alone and took the other car to work. I could smell fuel.

When I returned from work I tried again and had the same experience but the engine sounded stronger this time with a couple catches. After a couple minutes of cranking and letting it rest I was able to get it to fire and catch and I brought the rpms up to about 4000 and held it for a minute. It sounded and felt like I had a slight hesitation or miss at those rpms.

I let it idle for a while to bring the engine up to operating temperature and drove it over to my mechanic to see if he could find anything wrong the next day. It drove and ran fine, I turned it off and restarted it and left it there.

My mechanic wasn't able to reproduce the problem. It started easily from cold and the engine ran perfectly. He changed the oil for me and I took it home. It started fine this morning no problems.

My best guess is that it lost spark for some reason as it clearly had fuel based on smell. I suppose that the weak/quiet engine sounds was due to no ignition of the fuel. The puff sounds from the exhaust was the starter cycling the pistons perhaps.

What are everyone's thoughts? I have no history on the coils, wires or spark plugs. Any other component that may come into play?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
The problem is a well documented issue with the DOHC engines. The exhaust valves stick slightly off the seats when there is a sudden cold snap and thick cold oil. Usually a non-full synthetic oil. There is a TSB but you followed the instructions, let it warm back up.

Read down in this thread a ways: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=202474 The sticking valve info is after the post where the OP returns with good compression numbers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trottida View Post
Thinking about this some more, the last time I ran the car before I parked it for 4 days was to move it from one side of the driveway to the other. I did not let it warm up at all; it was run for less than a minute from cold start. Oil would have been close to ambient temperature when shut down which was about -8 Celsius (18 Fahrenheit).

I'd still like to read the TSB if anyone has a copy.

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

Last edited by trottida; 02-21-2019 at 12:12 PM..

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Old 05-28-2019, 07:50 AM   #186
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

So I changed my original leather steering wheel in the 99 SL2 yesterday to a perforated leather steering wheel that was in the 96 SL2 (not original). Now the steering wheel is not dead center. What's up with that? Any ideas why this happened?

The steering column shaft is keyed so there's no other way it's going on. I did have to beat on the original steering wheel to get it to break loose. By "beat on" I mean pull hard while rocking back and forth. I did unsuccessfully try to fabricate a puller but the metal plate I was using wasn't thick enough and bent. It was on there "good n tight"

Also, at the top of the steering wheel the leather has lost its gloss finish. Any ideas on how to bring it back? I'm guessing it's from sun damage. I did used leather cleaner followed by leather conditioner. Shoe polish maybe?

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3151.jpg (98.0 KB, 61 views)

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 05-28-2019, 09:48 AM   #187
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Posts: 55
 

1998 SL2
Default Re: and so it begins....

Just a thought - my steering wheel had been off a bit and when I had a wheel alignment done, after having shocks and struts replaced recently, it leveled out. Also research out a proper leather dye and recoloring (restoration) product rather than use shoe polish for the better results.

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Old 05-28-2019, 11:45 AM   #188
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2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by focusofheart View Post
Just a thought - my steering wheel had been off a bit and when I had a wheel alignment done, after having shocks and struts replaced recently, it leveled out. Also research out a proper leather dye and recoloring (restoration) product rather than use shoe polish for the better results.
The wheel alignment and steering wheel center was bang on before changing the steering wheel. Whenever I have gotten an alignment and they did not center the steering wheel I always bring it back to have it corrected.

To get the steering wheel back on center I'll need to get an alignment. Driving with it as is will drive me up the wall! I may put the original steering wheel back on to confirm the problem is with the steering wheel. I can't imagine I bent something in the process of removing it.

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 05-31-2019, 11:41 AM   #189
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Replace the front calipers in the 99 SL2. The right one was frozen and the brake pad was dragging quite a bit. I had freed it up a bit on the weekend but by Tuesday it was dragging enough to make the car feel sluggish. The rotor and pad heated up pretty good too! Fortunately I caught it early enough that I was able to save the pads and rotor. Brakes feel pretty good now.

On a related note, OldNuc usually recommends a specific Centric rotor (10262038) and Bendix (???) or Raybestos (ATD507C) pads. I can't find the Bendix part number but if I recall correctly it is no longer listed on RockAuto. The Raybestos is no longer listed as well. What's recommended from RockAuto's current selection OldNuc? I have to do the 01 SL1 brakes.

I have an alignment scheduled next week to get the steering wheel back to top dead centre. I'm still in disbelief this happened with a steering wheel swap.

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 05-31-2019, 12:41 PM   #190
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1998 SC2
Default Re: and so it begins....

CENTRIC 10505070 Posi-Quiet Ceramic w/Shims and Hardware-Front

These will work. The Bendix are still available but you have to go searching and they tend to be expensive.

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Old 05-31-2019, 01:37 PM   #191
trottida
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
CENTRIC 10505070 Posi-Quiet Ceramic w/Shims and Hardware-Front

These will work. The Bendix are still available but you have to go searching and they tend to be expensive.
What is the product number for the Bendix for future reference?

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 05-31-2019, 04:08 PM   #192
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1998 SC2
Default Re: and so it begins....

This is the original post: I have a little over 100,000 miles on these parts and it looks like thy are not quite 1/2 done at this time.

Front disk brake parts for proper rebuild. Use high quality new parts and this job should last 75,000 - 100,000+ miles.

Rotors, order 2. CENTRIC Part # 12062038 @ $27.79 ea.
Caliper pins (bolts), order 2. RAYBESTOS Part # H5051 @ $6.32 ea. Or WAGNER Part # H5046 @ $4.55
Caliper pin boots(bushing), order 2. RAYBESTOS Part # H16066 @ $7.42 ea.
Pads, order 1. BENDIX Part # D507CT @ $38.79

Things to have available before starting job.
--1 tube of Sil-Glide lube for pins and boots. http://www.amazon.com/SILGLYDE-LUBE-...5806883&sr=8-1 can be found locally also.
--"C" clamp large enough to allow pressing the caliper piston back into caliper.
--Small ball peen hammer, 8 or 10 oz.
--1/4" flat nose pin punch.
--Penetrating oil, PB Blaster or Kroil.
--Aluminum based anti-seize compound.
--Black brush-on Rustoleum.
--2lb short handle sledge hammer.
--One quart of DOT-3 brake fluid.

Things to do several days before starting job.
--Remove wheels and take the punch and 8oz hammer and sharply whack each of the pins on the head several times sharply, apply PB Blaster on the pin to caliper joint and repeat whacking, do all pins then replace road wheel. Do this twice several days apart before doing brake job.
--Also squirt some PB Blaster into the back of the rotor where it contacts the wheel hub. The rotor and hub rust together on the edges and this will help with rotor removal. Do this when doing the step above.
--take clear picture of brake line routing to caliper or you will put it together incorrectly and wear hole in hose.

Things to do as you start brake job.
--Right before starting this job remove as much brake fluid as possible from master cylinder so as to have room for the brake fluid that will be displaced when pressing caliper pistons back into caliper.

Do not get any finger prints on the rotors as they are coated, same for the pad braking surface.

You may need a can of brake cleaner but keep it off of the rotors and pads! The rotors and pads are precoated and you do not want finger prints or anything else on the braking surfaces.

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Old 06-03-2019, 02:25 PM   #193
trottida
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Added a gas hood strut to the 99 SL2 as posted in the mods section of this post within the Bolt on hood struts tread. Here are the photos of the $38 mod ...







]
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3163 lg.jpg (153.0 KB, 34 views)

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 06-18-2019, 01:57 PM   #194
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Replaced the battery under warranty on the 99 SL2. Bought it on June 23rd last year and it developed a bad cell in it. It has an 18 mo free replacement plus 42 mo pro-rated warranty.

I had to boost in on Friday evening to get home, I trickle charged it overnight, took it off charge Saturday morning and in the afternoon it didn't have enough power to start the car.

Warranty period starts over today however I'd much rather the battery be problem free for several years. It was a Nationwide brand battery; a division of Interstate which I understand uses Johnson Controls to manufacture batteries.

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 06-19-2019, 05:42 PM   #195
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Replaced the spark plugs in the 99 SL2 with NGK BKR6EKPB-11's today.

Found out that I need to replace the valve cover gasket as the spark plug wells were oil soaked.

Here are photos of the plugs that came out. I have no history on them; they came with the 178K km engine I swapped in. I've run them for 45K km's since the engine swap. I flipped the plug in the second photo and they all appear in order they came out.








Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3242 sm.jpg (46.4 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3244 sm.jpg (42.8 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3243 sm.jpg (50.0 KB, 18 views)

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 06-19-2019, 06:50 PM   #196
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1998 SC2
Default Re: and so it begins....

I am quite impressed with the BKR6EKB-11 that I installed some time ago and they are still in there. The box of BKR6EKPB-11 is still on the counter waiting to be installed.

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Old 06-19-2019, 08:51 PM   #197
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
I am quite impressed with the BKR6EKB-11 that I installed some time ago and they are still in there. The box of BKR6EKPB-11 is still on the counter waiting to be installed.
I've been watching that thread for some time and actually bought the plugs last fall. I just never got around to installing them.

Any comments on how the old plugs look? Here's a link to the full sized photos >> https://photos.app.goo.gl/5P4GcQ8CheohmUfw5 and https://photos.app.goo.gl/5otGuhztXs5SgCBU7

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

Last edited by trottida; 06-19-2019 at 08:57 PM..

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Old 06-19-2019, 09:00 PM   #198
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: and so it begins....

Have not had a reason to pull them out yet. Probably willdo that soon though.

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Old 06-19-2019, 09:01 PM   #199
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: and so it begins....

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Have not had a reason to pull them out yet. Probably willdo that soon though.


I was referring to my old plugs in the photo but when the time comes I'd like to know about your current ones too! I added links to the full size photos.

...
2001 SL1 MT (433,500 km @ 06/2019)
1999 SL2 MT (277,300 km @ 06/2019)
2011 Suburban LT (128,250 km @ 06/2019)

Past Saturns
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 06-19-2019, 09:48 PM   #200
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1998 SC2
Default Re: and so it begins....

They look well used and there is evident o center electrode rounding and ground bar erosion on 2plugs. Pretty much what you would expect to see.

I use the AM radio noise test to asses the condition of the installed plugs and they still sound like new.

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