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Old 10-27-2015, 07:17 PM   #1
Antwan4lif
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Default 1995 sl1 problems help please new to forums thanks

What's up guys so I have a 1995 Saturn sl1 sohc I like the car but I'm having a slew of issues I have so far changed the intake manifold gasket the iac and the ect I and having still a high idle and ses light on codes are 35,45,49 I'm starting to become at a loss and really frustrated any help would be much appreciated I have done the plugs and wires and cleaned the throttle body when doing so it's just very annoying the intake gasket was original and fell apart on the way out so I was almost sure this was the culprit but still like 1500-2000 rpm idle unless ac is switched on than idles to 8-900 don't get it and the car is getting got at idle not sure if this is just because of the idle anyway anyone that has any ideas thanks

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Old 10-27-2015, 08:23 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1995 sl1 problems help please new to forums thanks

Try blocking the PCV line, then the brake booster line, one-at-a-time. Those are big hoses, most likely to give bad vacuum leak. Try blocking the IAC inlet port in the throttle-body.

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Old 10-27-2015, 08:48 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1995 sl1 problems help please new to forums thanks

In addition to suggestions given, here are some more.

This site has code definitions; http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...dtc_chart.html

1-Did you replace the two-wire coolant sensor or the single wire one? The two-wire sensor is the one that causes all the problems - the engine computer needs it to determine correct air/fuel mixtures. The single wire sensor is used only for the temperature gauge.

2-Error code 35 points to the idle air control valve but yours seems to be working as the pcm controls the iacv to regulate idle rpm from cold engine start (high idle), warm (normal idle), and various loads like a/c and lighting.

What's cold engine rpm?

3-Was the thermostat ever replaced? It should have been replaced at least once. The combination of faulty original coolant sensor and worn out t-stat causes the engine to run colder than normal. Normal should be between 185F-195F, temperature needle between the 1/4 and 1/2 mark. These two parts may contribute to erratic high idling.

4-The next time high idling occurs, stop the engine and restart it without touching the pedal. If the rpm returns to idle the throttle position sensor may be worn out and causes an electronic drift the pcm senses and raises rpm. You see rpm as high but the pcm doesn't, from a worn out tps.

5-Error code 45 may be from the coolant sensor or old t-stat. Does your engine your engine use a single injector?

6-Error code 49 may be from piggy backing with the first two codes.

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Old 10-28-2015, 03:45 AM   #4
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Default Re: 1995 sl1 problems help please new to forums thanks

So I have replaced the t-stay and the two wire ect it was cracked and the cold idle is like 2k erratic than when warm goes to like 1500 and bounces back and forth than throws an ses so I think maybe throwing a map and a tips at it ? Sounds like it could do the idle because I sprayed all the vacum lines with brake clean and no change in idle

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Old 10-28-2015, 09:54 AM   #5
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Default Re: 1995 sl1 problems help please new to forums thanks

It would be a lot easier and less expensive to do the simple tests suggested by us above, rather than "throwing parts at it". Just sayin'...

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Old 10-28-2015, 01:32 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1995 sl1 problems help please new to forums thanks

The only thing leaking is the pcv but couldn't imagine it would cause all those issues maybe so tho brake booster good throttle body line fine when I plugged them off the car wants to die so imagine the lines are good and only thing I can't get anything out of is the pcv grommet itself ? Idk this car is gonna kill me tps original and original map

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Old 10-28-2015, 08:57 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1995 sl1 problems help please new to forums thanks

"The only thing leaking is the pcv but couldn't imagine it would cause all those issues maybe so tho brake booster good throttle body line fine when I plugged them off the car wants to die so imagine the lines are good and only thing I can't get anything out of is the pcv grommet itself ? Idk this car is gonna kill me tps original and original map"

What "them" are you talking about? Plugging either of the lines going to the PCV or brake booster should have no effect. Only plugging the IAC inlet port should do something, and usually that isn't an engine stall, just rpm lowers (engine already warmed up).

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