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#1 |
Member
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Location: Michigan
Posts: 371
2000 SL1
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Been working on converting all my lights to LED recently and the last bit was the third brake light. I didn't realize it used the lights that were soldered in, I thought they'd be removable. Nope.
I bought some compatible 194 twist bases that came with a bunch of blue LED's. I don't need blue, but the price for ten bases and LED's was cheaper than buying the bases alone. I know someone is going to say "Super Bright LED's sells what you need" and you would be correct, but I've had a lot of good luck with LASFIT and their customer service is also top notch (I'm sure SBLED is too, but never had to deal with them). Also, these LASFIT bulbs are non-polarity lights, so you can plug them in either way. LASFIT didn't have the PC175's or bases, so I was able to send them info about it and I'm going to send them these latest pics so they can use them if needed. The only downside of the 194 bases is that they aren't exactly made for this application. When you insert them into the PCB board, they're already making contact with the pads on the board. They also fit pretty tight, so I simply used a pair of pliers to gently twist them just enough to engage the ears on the PCB and still make contact with the pads for power. The lights themselves were also just a smidge too tight for the bases, but that was due to the ends of the lights having those micro resistors at the very end, so they were cutting into the plastic a bit. I'm sure some light sanding would have made them fit easier, but once I wiggled them back and forth, they pushed right past the plastic and seated into the base just fine. The final pic doesn't do the lights justice, the camera washed them out from the brightness, but they are a nice, deep red. |
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#2 |
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Did you also convert the tail/brake light bulbs to LED's also? I remember you left a comment on 02-15-2022 to one of my posts when I got the Wrench light that was due to error code C0165-10 for ABS/TCS brake switch circuit open. My car has 3 #921 bulbs in the center brake light, and I had to leave 1 incandescent bulb in to avoid getting that error. I was curious whether or not you had that wrench light come on.
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It's GOOD to have a spare! |
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#3 |
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Michigan
Posts: 371
2000 SL1
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I haven't had the wrench light come on yet and the entire rear of the car is converted to LED. I actually don't have ABS on my car, so maybe that has something to do with it?
The only lights I haven't converted to LED are the two front side markers because I remembered your thread, but I couldn't remember specifically what it was that would cause the lack of current draw, so I left them in just in case. Maybe I'll take them out of my truck and test them to see what happens, but it sounds like it's brake/brake light/ABS related. The type of LED's you use could also play a big factor. I went to see your thread and after seeing the type of LED's you were using, I'm betting that might also have something to do with it. Cheap LED's don't always have all the best components in them and some even just run straight off the vehicle's power with nothing in between to regulate current. Just a thought ![]() |
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#4 |
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I believe my problem is related to having ABS, because that is the system reporting the error so that answers my question.
I only put LED’s in the rear. Years ago I modified the front marker lights so they flash with the turn signals. This will not work with LED’s so I left them alone. I did this by disconnecting the front marker ground and connecting it to the front flasher circuit on each side. Richpin did a YouTube video on it, and I liked how it worked. I have earlier GM vehicles that were wired this way.
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It's GOOD to have a spare! |
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