Power locks and Dome light not working...

[TheOneJordan]

So, let me give you a quick background. I am just turn 17 when I got my License + 2001 Saturn SL2. Well, my dad is deceased so I did not have the "dad" to tell me what to do and what not to do with my car. So, to make a long story short I blew my engine because I forgot to get the oil changed. I got a completely new rebuilt engine (cost me $3400) and it is running fine and I am changing my oil like I should be! But, ever since I got my engine replace my power locks and dome light have not worked. I did not bring it back to the engine place because something always popped up. Now it is my problem.

What could this be? It's not my fuses, I checked them. Could it be a relay? I do have 3 10" subs. Could that have blown them? If it's not a relay what else could it be? I am clueless to this issue. lol

[dorisSL]

double check your fuses, with specific attention to the chime fuse.

does your car ding if you forget to put on your seatbelt? or if you leave your headlights on?

the common denominator here is the chime module

[TheOneJordan]

Originally Posted by dorisSL

double check your fuses, with specific attention to the chime fuse.

does your car ding if you forget to put on your seatbelt? or if you leave your headlights on?

the common denominator here is the chime module

Yes, it does make that ding noise if the car is off and I open the door with my headlights on.

[OnDaGround]

Sounds like you could have a broke connection. You should get a tester to see if power is even making it to the lights and then trace the wires. In my honest opinion. When someone ****s up your car, make them fix it. Because from me doing the same as you, I am now a year and a half down the road with my headers still rattling my car apart because the shop left it touching the subframe. So now I have to buy a new set. I should have done it myself, but I was moving and had to pass inspection due to a recent fix it ticket for my exhaust being "too loud".... meh It was only a header with a test pipe to a flow master... lol no restriction. I would call it louder then average, but not that loud (ok ok, it was pretty loud ). Oh and BTW, you will need a 4 channel amp.

[TheOneJordan]

Originally Posted by OnDaGround

Sounds like you could have a broke connection. You should get a tester to see if power is even making it to the lights and then trace the wires. In my honest opinion. When someone ****s up your car, make them fix it. Because from me doing the same as you, I am now a year and a half down the road with my headers still rattling my car apart because the shop left it touching the subframe. So now I have to buy a new set. I should have done it myself, but I was moving and had to pass inspection due to a recent fix it ticket for my exhaust being "too loud".... meh It was only a header with a test pipe to a flow master... lol no restriction. I would call it louder then average, but not that loud (ok ok, it was pretty loud ). Oh and BTW, you will need a 4 channel amp.

I don't know how the wiring works, but are the power locks and dome light wired together? Could that be why they are both not working? Or, do I have 2 individual problems here? lol Also, alright awesome! I'm going to make a reply to that thread now.

[OnDaGround]

not sure. I don't have either, and I have never dealt with the issue.

[TheOneJordan]

Originally Posted by OnDaGround

not sure. I don't have either, and I have never dealt with the issue.

Think I might just break down and bring it to the dealer and see what they say. BOOOOOOO! lol

[fujioko]

This sounds stupid, and I admit it doesn’t make sense…

My chime module wasn’t working on my 97 SL1. Specifically the rear defrost wasn’t working. Anyway I pulled the module and de-oxed the connections. Reassembled everything and still didn’t work.

About a week latter I disconnected the battery for some reason… 24 hours later when I reconnected the battery the chime module (and rear defrost) worked as expected.

As stupid as this sounds.. try and disconnect the battery… perhaps for overnight..

[alordofchaos]

When troubleshooting, rule out stuff by cheecking the cheap and easy first.

1) Make sure your dome light switch didn't get bumped into the "off"position (happened to me once )

2) Make sure your dome light bulb hasn't burned out

3) what does it mean when you say your power locks don't work, and do you have a remote?
a) no sound when you press the button
b) sounds like it should, but nothing happens

4) when you checked fuses, did you eyeball them or actually switch them? Usually you can see when a fuse is burnt out, but sometimes with a darker color, you can miss the break. Switching with a known good fuse, same size, is 100%

[dorisSL]

Originally Posted by TheOneJordan

I don't know how the wiring works, but are the power locks and dome light wired together? Could that be why they are both not working? Or, do I have 2 individual problems here? lol Also, alright awesome! I'm going to make a reply to that thread now.

thats why i was asking about the ding. thos two meet in the chime module, and as far as i know, nowhere else.
someone may be able to shed more light on this, but it may be that they also ground to the same place, if thats the case, i'd check that ground.

[TheOneJordan]

Originally Posted by alordofchaos

When troubleshooting, rule out stuff by cheecking the cheap and easy first.

1) Make sure your dome light switch didn't get bumped into the "off"position (happened to me once ) - Checked that. No luck.

2) Make sure your dome light bulb hasn't burned out. - First thing I did was bought a new bulb, no luck.

3) what does it mean when you say your power locks don't work, and do you have a remote? - When I click them nothing happens. No little click, nothing. Yes.
a) no sound when you press the button - None.
b) sounds like it should, but nothing happens - No sound at all.

4) when you checked fuses, did you eyeball them or actually switch them? Usually you can see when a fuse is burnt out, but sometimes with a darker color, you can miss the break. Switching with a known good fuse, same size, is 100%. - I swapped out a fuse from my cigarette lighter I think it was to the dome light fuse just because they were the same size fuse and my cigarette lighter works. No luck either.

asdfasdf

[dorisSL]

i checked my chilton, they both ground at the same splice pack, i don;t know physically where it is. if someone can tell you where it is, you might be able to rule that out. does the light not come on with the door or on setting, or does it work with one?

back to basics - have you checked the light bulb?

[TheOneJordan]

Originally Posted by dorisSL

i checked my chilton, they both ground at the same splice pack, i don;t know physically where it is. if someone can tell you where it is, you might be able to rule that out. does the light not come on with the door or on setting, or does it work with one?

back to basics - have you checked the light bulb?

does not work at all and yes i've replaced the bulb and still no luck

[dorisSL]

hmm.. i don't know much about the part, but on your car, these (locks and dome light) both go thru the BCM. might have someone with more knowledge on that expand the idea....(my '95 doesn't have one)

[alordofchaos]

Originally Posted by dorisSL

i checked my chilton, they both ground at the same splice pack, i don;t know physically where it is.

That was my next suggestion - common ground - since we ruled out bulbs, fuses and chime module

Good chance that whoever put the engine in didn't reattach something to the common ground or accidentally cut/broke the wires.

[dorisSL]

btw- that is the left body ground splice pack. i don't know the exact location, someone else could probably help there.

[jerryAZ]

I just had this problem, but the remote would not unlock the drivers door, but if I pushed the button twice, it unlocked all the other doors.
I was working on the dome light, and I blew the fuse on the passenger side fuse box labeled "body" (10a fuse)