Transmission cooler line replacement?

[off-track]

Welcome!

Are you replacing the radiator or the lines?

[m0topilot]

I just wanted to reply to close out my experience. One of the lines from Autozone, I had to sand down with 280 grit sand paper because the quick disconnect part was out of spec while the other fit nicely. It was suggested by the autozone guy to sand it removing 0.001 of material at time. It took me about 5 minutes of twisting and turning the nozzel, but managed to get it to fit. Snapped right back in, and everything looks good - no leaks thank God.

This forum was indespensable in me saving a lot of money doing it myself.

[Mark121]

[QUOTE=Low Saturn;937183]There are quick disconnects on the transmision side. You pinch the tabs and the line slides off.

First of sorry for bring back such old thread but since its my first time posting, I cant post pictures my question, is does anyone know if the bottom trans line or top trans line is the return line to transmission?

[wekoenig3]

I realize this is an old thread, but I'm a noob to this sort of thing. I have a 95 SL1 and the lines to the radiator are frozen. Like a previous poster, I tried WD40, Liquid Wrench, Vise Grips, and heat. Autozone has the lines with the radiator end already installed. Are the QD's all that easy to use? Thanks!!

[Steve44]

The trouble with the aftermarket lines are the QD's. They are a pain in the butt. Some folks have had to sand down or even cut the trans end of the line for the QD to work. If you can get AC Delco lines (Rock auto is where I got mine) they are basically plug and play. You may need a good pair of pliers to squeeze the QD's.
Good Luck!

[Stanley_Krute]

Augggh, hit this problem today while replacing the radiator on my 99 SW2.

Interestingly, haha, the RichPin video barely mentioned the auto. trans. cooler lines in passing, and didn't talk about this can of worms.

Question: before using the quick disconnects on the auto trans. side, do I have to drain any fluids or do anything else ? Will fluid want to leak out while the lines are disconnected ?

Thanks as always to everyone who makes saturnfans.com indispensible.

-- stan

[Stanley_Krute]

Just by the way: here are the part numbers for my 99 Saturn SW2 :

ACDelco 21001873 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Fluid Cooler Line Fitting

ACDelco 21031306 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Fluid Cooler Upper Line

ACDelco 21031307 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Fluid Cooler Lower Line

[Stanley_Krute]

Got this all done. Some notes:

1. Yes, I had to plug the quick-release lines until I had the new AT cooler lines in. I used a 1/4" wooden dowel wrapped in shop paper towel and outer plastic bag.

2. Unfortunately, I didn't have time to get the GM AT cooler lines, and so used Dorman 3rd party versions. As others noted, yep, grrrr, they're a bit too big on the quick-release side, so I sanded with 220 sandpaper and all worked.

3. The Dorman lower AT cooler line had a larger-size nut on the radiator side. It required a 1/2" flare wrench.

4. I had a small leak show up from the upper AT cooler line where it enters the radiator after driving a few miles. It just needed tightening up. From pretty snug to really snug.

[Stanley_Krute]

Oh, also : Dorman part numbers for my 99 SW2 :

Upper AT Cooler Line 624-983
Lower AT Cooler Line 624-984

[Consultant611]

Ran into the same problem on 1996 SL2 - bottom line rusted and leaking.
Thought for sure I would have to replace the radiator.

Used CRC Freeze-Off - hit it three times with a long spray (15-20 seconds) and used vice grips on the flare nut. It came free.

By the way, the large retainer nut you see around the flare nut fitting merely holds the inner cooler against the seal with the radiator - no need to have a wrench on it when working on the flare nut. Just don't go crazy with the torque on the flare nut.

Replaced both the line and the transmission side quick connect with GM OEM parts. About $29 including shipping.

Took about an hour with the lower line (used floor jack - didn't have to remove the front tire), and about 1.5 hour messing with the upper quick connect (18mm socket or wrench to remove). You need to remove air filter and get induction hose out of the way to get access. You need a quick connect tool to slide over the line to open the clips, but most won't fit due to the curves in the lines and the clearance (or lack thereof) Fabricated a tool from some split polyethylene 1/4" line - worked like a charm.