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Old 03-17-2018, 02:54 PM   #21
billr
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Consider, then, my suggestion to use live-data. Pay attention first to the TPS, MAP, and IAC steps. The rpm can't stay up high without sufficient airflow into the engine, regardless of what the spark and fueling are like. In fact, improper spark/fuel almost always causes an engine to run slower than normal, not faster.

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Old 03-17-2018, 03:38 PM   #22
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

I checked and indeed the ECTS (the connector at the very least) has been replaced. Underneath the electrical tape there were butt splices. I haven't checked the actual ECTS itself (although assuming that all of the OEM sensors are the same color that you can find them online, it isn't that color and is instead black), but I don't see why anyone would only replace the connector. I'll look into getting a live data OBD-II reader, but that probably won't be happening any time soon.

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Old 03-17-2018, 06:15 PM   #23
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Fix the ECTS and the hang will go away and there is no reason to spend the 250-350 to get a decent live data scanner. Generally the plastic sensor will look black/dark green. I would instead look at the area where the part that the connector mates with joins the brass body and if that is a rounded connection then it is a brass sensor and if it is a 90 degree junction it is plastic. either way spending the $$ for a new ECTS and soldering those connections will solve your issue.

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Old 03-17-2018, 10:44 PM   #24
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Couldn't get the camera to focus correctly but I took some low quality pictures of the ECTS and the butt splices for reference.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2018-03-17 22.09.27.jpg (185.0 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 2018-03-17 22.12.54.jpg (79.2 KB, 10 views)

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Old 03-17-2018, 11:29 PM   #25
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Remove the butt spices and properly solder and insulate the splice. Replace the ECTS, that one does not inspire any confidence.

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Old 03-18-2018, 12:54 AM   #26
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Any reason that it doesn't inspire confidence besides a gut feeling? I'll replace it anyways given the price of the part, but I'm just wondering.

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Old 03-18-2018, 08:03 AM   #27
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Those splices are failed and there is a well aged part, the ECTS that does not last forever, replace it. Your problem is being caused by an out of limit mixture. That is very likely caused by this ECTS circuit which is in a highly questionable condition.

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Old 03-18-2018, 03:11 PM   #28
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Sure, replace a bad ECT sensor and ensure its wiring is good, but I won't be surprised if the problem remains. Let's wait and see...

PS: Live-data doesn't have to be expensive. Look into ELM327 connections to OBD2. Pay the "big bucks" ($20-50) for one, avoid the very cheapest ones that you will find in the $5-20 range.

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Old 03-24-2018, 06:48 PM   #29
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

I replaced the ECTS and soldered the connections and there was no change whatsoever. Also, in the last few days my car has begun high idling by around 300 RPM so it now idles at ~1000 RPM while the car is stopped, but there's no noticeable change in the rev hang as far as I can tell. Does anyone have any more ideas on what could be causing the rev hang, or am I gonna have to get a live data reader to get any further in tracking down the cause?

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Old 03-24-2018, 06:58 PM   #30
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Did you ever pressure test for a bad exhaust? Have you checked for a bad TPS?

To test for a bad TPS catch the high rev when you are Stopped and foot off gas shut off engine and restart without touching gas. If the idle is now normal this is usually a defective TPS. Live data will only verify what you already know.

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Old 03-24-2018, 07:23 PM   #31
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Turning the car off and then back on does not fix the high idle. That was the first thing I checked. I haven't pressure tested for a bad exhaust, but if it means anything, the major exhaust leak that I welded up was in front of the catalytic converter and there was no difference in power/throttle response/etc after welding it closed.

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Old 03-24-2018, 07:45 PM   #32
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Live-data can do far more than just "verify what you already know".

When you take your foot off the throttle and the revs "hang", look at the TPS. If that hasn't fallen to near-zero, then either the throttle hasn't closed (sticking) or the TPS is bad. That kind of narrows the chase down, don't you think?

Likewise, the MAP should go low (20-40 kPa) when the throttle snaps closed. If it doesn't, as seen in live-data, then the MAP sensor is bad, or the throttle hasn't closed all the way, or there is a big vacuum leak.

IF you get both of those, TPS not going low and MAP not going low, then a sticking throttle becomes very likely. On the other hand, if TPS goes low but MAP does not, then a vacuum leak would be my suspect. Of course, checking the MAP sensor would be wise, and live-data makes that a fairly easy job, too.

I'm not saying live-data will be your "magic bullet", but it is a valuable tool that is too often ignored or just not understood.

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Old 03-24-2018, 09:02 PM   #33
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by vanman94 View Post
Turning the car off and then back on does not fix the high idle. That was the first thing I checked. I haven't pressure tested for a bad exhaust, but if it means anything, the major exhaust leak that I welded up was in front of the catalytic converter and there was no difference in power/throttle response/etc after welding it closed.

If you do not actually pressure test it then you will never find all the leaks.

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Old 03-24-2018, 09:33 PM   #34
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Default Re: 2000 Saturn SL1 Rev Hang(?)

I gave to agree with billr about using a reader with all the repairs made and zero change in this problem. If there's one suggestion made by many here, if you have a cellphone, you can buy a bluetooth adapter (<$30) that connects to the OBD II port and either the free version of Torque or a few dollars more for advanced functions (download from online). Or buy a plug-in reader. Your choice.

A reader can help display baseline values at ignition on time but without prior knowledge of what they are and reading your car, you won't be able to determine what's correct or not. With several members here experienced with baseline values and expected values when driving, there's sufficient help to narrow this problem down. Plus online sources of info to become familiar with what values should be displayed at ignition on time, while idling (cold and warm), and during acceleration.

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