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Old 10-27-2018, 02:24 AM   #141
Chris Arnold
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Originally Posted by alordofchaos View Post
Ouch - usual recommendation here is the starter from DB Electric, around $40? or so

Do you mean Mercon V?

https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/autotransfluid

haven't checked specs, though

GM skipped Dex IV and V
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON
Well, I'm honestly not sure what he put in it, then. Clutch feels good. The car starts every time again, and the transmission shifts like it always has.

Yeah, life sucks, and school is handing me my ass, atm. I wish I was able to put the time in and do this myself for fair prices, but at the moment, I'm getting all the help I can. Wish I had known about the starter, though. That's a substantial difference. I doubt it'll come back up, but I'll keep it in mind for the future.

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Old 10-29-2018, 09:18 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Arnold View Post
Yeah, life sucks, and school is handing me my ass, atm. I wish I was able to put the time in and do this myself for fair prices, but at the moment, I'm getting all the help I can.
I hear ya, man. I just graduated but for the four years before, i paid several times for work on my minivan. It gets better, hang in there! I managed some time yesterday to crawl under my car

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Old 01-03-2019, 08:55 PM   #143
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140k miles

Oil change with Mobil1 0W-40.

I haven't been keeping detailed records, lately, but I know the car is beginning to use more oil than it used to. Based on the expense of Mobil1, I'm considering a transition to Rotella 5W-40 synthetic, which I use in my diesel. Rotella has some pretty strong detergents which actually might help unstick any gunk in the rings, which I understand is the culprit of the oil burning issues. However, it's still not that bad. I'd guess it's using somewhere between 1 & 2 quarts between my 4k mile oil changes. I think that's pretty typical of the DOHC saturn motor at this mileage.

I replaced the EGR valve at the end of November, and didn't tighten it enough. This caused a minor stumble at low load, presumably a vacuum leak, that led me to replace the plugs since I thought they might be the problem after ~70k miles of use, lol. They weren't the problem, though they needed to be changed. When I figured it out and tightened the EGR valve down, the stumbling went away.

The rear tires were also mounted and balanced, and the car is running like a top. I'm all caught up on my maintenance! Yay!

Next up:
Basic tune-up stuff like a fuel filter, air filter, & wires. No hurry as the car is running very well.

Last edited by Chris Arnold; 01-03-2019 at 09:01 PM..

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Old 01-08-2019, 04:45 PM   #144
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Decided to be prepared for a ski vacation. I couldn't bring myself to pay an exorbitant amount for spyders, and even though I've never seen anyone claim exerience with these on a Saturn S-Series, I decided to give them a shot. At $55 per pair, the price was pretty reasonable, so I got a set for all 4 wheels/tires.

They're the Super Z (PN: SZ123) snow cable chains. Apparently designed to clear minimal clearance vehicles.

Disclaimer: caveat emptor! Now, I'm not suggesting anyone go get them with faith that there will never be an issue. They run VEEEEERY close to the strut and to the fender at the front. I put one on, backed out of the driveway, and moved a bit in front of the house turning lock to lock in each direction. I'll test more extensively in the future when I have more time, but at first impression, they appear to clear everything very well.

While I run snow tires in mild conditions, it's nice to have these at the ready, and I do intend to take a trip to ski in Colorado where I am likely to put them to use. I just wanted to give the forum my first impressions in case anyone else was wondering.
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Old 04-12-2019, 11:54 PM   #145
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In an earlier update, I mentioned that I had some EGR troubles. I thought I'd resolved them, but in fact I had more troubles to the point I was pulling my hair out. I think the original problems started back in around October of last year. So, the SES light and code P1404 had been driving me nuts for 6-7 months. I tried many ways to resolve my issue before I finally found a solution. I'm happy to report that my SL2 is back to 100%.

From this thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Arnold View Post
Ok. I'm not certain I'm out of the woods, but the SMP EGR valve has been in for 14 days that I've operated the car and I have not had another SES light. So apparently, the two BWD EGR valves from O'Reilly's were both out of spec. How frustrating that situation was.

I'll follow up if the code comes back, but otherwise, I think this is enough of an indicator to advise people to steer clear of BWD EGR valves for our Saturns.
It's been another 11 days for a total of 1 full month since the installation, and I've driven pretty much every day for the last 2 weeks. I'm finally confident that the code is gone for good. Apparently the SMP and BWD EGR valves are made by the same company, but 2 BWD EGR valves caused the SES light and code P1404, while the SMP EGR I ordered for about half the price online has not tripped the same code

Last edited by Chris Arnold; 04-13-2019 at 12:00 AM..

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Old 04-15-2019, 09:36 AM   #146
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I thought this was mentioned but didn't see it . . . you can buy an EGR gasket with a screen. It prevents the large chunks of carbon from the exhaust from getting into the EGR valve. Don't recall the exact price, think they were around $7 or so.

Glad it is resolved. It's a great feeling

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Old 04-15-2019, 06:06 PM   #147
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I thought this was mentioned but didn't see it . . . you can buy an EGR gasket with a screen. It prevents the large chunks of carbon from the exhaust from getting into the EGR valve. Don't recall the exact price, think they were around $7 or so.

Glad it is resolved. It's a great feeling
Yes, I did this as well. It was cheap. I don't know how effective it is, or if it would have prevented my original EGR from going bad, but there's nothing wrong with giving it the benefit of doubt since it's cheap.

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Old 07-14-2019, 11:08 PM   #148
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142k + change

Cliff's notes:
Replaced a/c clutch coil and a/c diode. Freon levels back within pressure specs (1.5 lbs of freon). Thank you to Oldnuc for helping me understand and diagnose the a/c diode. Thanks also to fdryer for your advice, as well.

Long version/Rant:
The a/c wasn't blowing cold, so I took my car to a local mechanic with good google reviews and asked them to recharge the system. At the end of the day, they called back and told me I needed a new compressor and should do the accumulator with it. Now, I replaced the compressor in April 2017 (post #101 in this thread), and I just wanted to know what happened to cause yet another a/c compressor issue.

So, I went down to the shop, and I asked to speak with the tech that worked on it, and they refused! Apparently, the tech was too busy to spend 5 minutes with me to talk me through what he saw. The middle-man assured me that the a/c compressor had absolutely no electrical issues "up stream, because they always check all of that thoroughly." Apparently, I'm just supposed to cough up a grand or more (couple hours at usually $120-160/hr here, a compressor that is ~$300 before mark up, an accumulator, & recharging/testing leaks, plus more money for whatever else they came up with & their warranty). I guess I'm supposed to roll over upon their request for parts and labor without understanding why, especially when I have reason to doubt what I'm being told.

So, when they wouldn't let me speak to someone, I asked them to guarantee that there's power to the compressor or give me a refund if they're wrong. That's when the other shoe dropped. They said I was paying for their a/c service and that they did the service, and they wouldn't stand behind that service by guaranteeing what they specifically said to me since they wouldn't let me speak to the person who did the work. At this, I'd had enough. I live a couple blocks away, so I said I'll go find out with my own multi-meter before I paid, spun on my heels and walked out.

When I got back, the test showed, in fact, that there were 0 volts to the a/c compressor. So, on top of the fact that they wouldn't let me understand what was going on, they WERE WRONG about what they actually did communicate to me. Now, I'm sure the mechanic is fine at his job, but none of that matters if the thing that is communicated to me (replace my compressor) would have just resulted in unnecessary expense and more trouble. So, then a lady with a chip on her shoulder comes out and starts raising her voice about how nice she is and how it's a favor to "let" me work out there, even though their insurance doesn't cover that. Well, no kidding! But should I pay for a service that either wasn't even performed or was so badly miscommunicated that it was valueless to me? I guess I would feel bad if what they told me had turned out to be true, but then I wouldn't have done it at all if I had the reassurance of the actual person who did the diagnostics.

As it turns out, the a/c diode in the under-hood fuse box had failed. The clutch coil, not the compressor, had failed. I don't know if one caused the other, or perhaps if something -- or some one -- caused them both to fail. All I know is that if I had replaced my compressor, I'd be out a lot more money for a compressor, accumulator, and a lot of labor that I didn't need, and even that would not have fixed my electrical problem. The electrical problem (a grounded circuit) very well may have ruined the new part in short order. Thank goodness I didn't take them at their word. Be skeptical of Wayside Garage in Seaside, California.

Some notes from their emailed report:
"Engergized compressor and test operation with the scanner. The compressor does not engage. Test electrical connections. Ok. Test for power and ground to compressor. Good. Need to replace compressor. Accumulator will need to be replaced with compressor. "

How is this possible with a grounded diode and a blown fuse?

"Customer decided to test the AC circuit with his volt meter in the parking lot and proceeded to tell us that we don't know how to test the system. I told him that there was no charge and that he could take his vehicle elsewhere for service."

This badly misrepresents me, though no surprise because I couldn't finish a sentence without her cutting me off. She clearly wasn't interested in what I actually said. I said there was no power to the compressor, and that what they told me was wrong... It was. I didn't want to drive away and come back where they could deny it and say that something else had changed. At that point, I still would have paid them.

I'll also add that their unasked for check-up on the vehicle with a litany of things that needed replacement including 2k mile oil reminds me of the quick-lube service places' upselling tactics.

Now, I'm going to end this positively. Thank you for the free system charge. I suppose a few minutes of pointless and unfounded beration was worth it, in the end. If they did the damage to the coil and diode, then at least I was able to replace those myself for less than the cost that the original service was supposed to be and did not have to disconnect the compressor to do it.

Last edited by Chris Arnold; 07-14-2019 at 11:13 PM..

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Old 07-15-2019, 07:01 AM   #149
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Excellent job! Now you know why I do all my own work.

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Old 07-15-2019, 08:25 AM   #150
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Yes, do your own work and you know it is either done right or who fouled it up so even in that event it will be easier to fix.

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Old 07-15-2019, 11:40 AM   #151
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With a/c stuff, I'd like to do it in the future, but I believe in achieving a complete vacuum to get moisture out, and I dont have the tools for that. What tools do you have/recommend.

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Old 07-15-2019, 12:27 PM   #152
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The basic requirements are a good set of manifold gauges, HF will be OK. The lowest cost Harbor Freight vacuum pump. Metric and imperial tubing wrenches(HF sells sets of each or Amazon). Little schrader valve tool. Go to craigslist and get a cylinder of r-134a. A sale that will accurately weigh the cylinder with sufficient resolution to be able charge by weight, generally a large postal scale works fine. That is all the must have hardware then you need to read up on how the thermodynamics of a system that uses a variable displacement compressor and temperature control valve operates as the conventional internet/YouTube wisdom is out in left field somewhere and once you understand it fixing and diagnosing is easy. This Saturn system is almost completely unique.

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Old 07-15-2019, 12:28 PM   #153
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I have this vacuum pump:
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-61245.html

This manifold gauge set:
https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r13...set-62707.html

This black light:
https://www.amazon.com/Escolite-Flas...-1-spons&psc=1

This can tap:
https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTec...gateway&sr=8-3

I have one of these on the way:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000K...b_b_prod_image

I bought one of these at Walmart:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-M...meter/14913174

Edit: I have a gram scale like the ones at Harbor Freight, and I buy the $4.88 cans of refrigerant from Walmart.

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Old 07-15-2019, 01:07 PM   #154
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Perfect! I'll get them all on order.

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Old 07-15-2019, 01:11 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
The basic requirements are a good set of manifold gauges, HF will be OK. The lowest cost Harbor Freight vacuum pump. Metric and imperial tubing wrenches(HF sells sets of each or Amazon). Little schrader valve tool. Go to craigslist and get a cylinder of r-134a. A sale that will accurately weigh the cylinder with sufficient resolution to be able charge by weight, generally a large postal scale works fine. That is all the must have hardware then you need to read up on how the thermodynamics of a system that uses a variable displacement compressor and temperature control valve operates as the conventional internet/YouTube wisdom is out in left field somewhere and once you understand it fixing and diagnosing is easy. This Saturn system is almost completely unique.
Well then, I'll have to listen to you and fdryer for the Saturn. Any reading recommendations? I'm, let's say, a physics enthusiast and a quantitative analyst in my day job. So, I already have a good sense of thermodynamics. I'm excited to never have to trust someone else with my A/C issues again. I'm pretty sure a shop killed my Corvette's system about a decade ago and cost me about $2k. I don't ever want to wonder about shops again if I can avoid it.

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Old 07-15-2019, 01:37 PM   #156
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Watch the ChrisFix A/C video.

https://youtu.be/Pdq8JAlct6s

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Old 07-15-2019, 06:45 PM   #157
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Great video. I watched it, and I ordered everything.

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