Acceleration problem...gets stuck...possibly transmission? Or a gas problem?

[Dingo Warrior]

I own an automatic 1994 Saturn SC1. Lately, when I floor it, its like it gets stuck and doesn't accelerate until I let off the gas a little. Is that a gas problem? Or a transmission problem? Another thing I noticed is when I have the car in park and press the gas pedal down, when the tachometer reaches this point just past the "4" mark, it makes a "rear rear rear rear" sound and can't make it past that point. But when driving it can make it past that point. Could these be connected?

[the_new_raceman]

The 4 grand is the rev limiter designed to not allow you to accidentally blow your engine when not moving and it quite normal. As for the other problem check your trans fluid and if its full and not dry i'd say to be looking for a new or rebuilt tranny.

[M.Nguyen]

see if you're running rich...that would be my best guess. Or your timing is off.

[alleninpa]

My guess would be for running rich also.
Replace the ECTS with a new brass factory one.
You may also want to replace plugs and PCV valve while you are at it.

[Applefool]

I second the ECTS. It is easy enough to remove and check.. If you remove it and it is the older resin design, replace it with the updated brass part from Saturn. I would also do a real good cleaning on the TB either by taking it off and cleaning it, or by spraying some carb cleaner into it. Once done with all that reset the pcm by pulling the pcm b fuse for a couple mins. See what that does for you. Also as mentioned above, the 4k rev limit is the neutral rev limiter and all s series have that afaik. That isn't something you want to remove.

[2NDSOUT]

I third replacing your spark plugs, wires and ECTS. It doesn't sound to me like your Transmission at all, although the sound you are hearing is the rev limiter. The sluggishness that you are feeling in the car is from the ECTS going bad or possibly being cracked. Definately replace with an OEM from the Dealer as well as stock Spark Plugs and wires. Overall plugs, wires and ECTS should cost you about $75 all together (Plugs are ~$20-$25, wires about the same, and the ECTS ~$20)

You can do all of these yourself...on a COLD engine!! Shouldn't take longer than about an hour or so.

[the_new_raceman]

Sorry for mentioning the tranny thing i was thinking about my moms neon and how similar it was sounding when her tranny went...definitely try the ECTS.

[unkle bik]

Clean your throttle body. Mine used to get gunked up with carbon and the plate would stick. Some carb cleaner, an old toothbrush, and ten minutes of your time should do it.

[sohcanddohc]

It is the T.B. need to clean from time to time, plus it is a no cost fix. Now thart will be $5.00

[itsmesillybubba]

May I just say one thing.....It is not good for your car to just floor the gas...ie stomp it to the floor from a stop.....if it works out to no be your tranny this time count your self lucky and try not to :floor" it any more

Cheers

[Dingo Warrior]

Thanks for the advice...it sounds like I'll have it fixed soon...but there are a few terms that I'm not 100% sure I know the meaning of...: (1) "running rich" (2) "ECTS" (3) "TB". One other thing that may have something to do with it is that car idles a little rough.

[dansl2]

Originally Posted by Dingo Warrior

Thanks for the advice...it sounds like I'll have it fixed soon...but there are a few terms that I'm not 100% sure I know the meaning of...: (1) "running rich" (2) "ECTS" (3) "TB". One other thing that may have something to do with it is that car idles a little rough.

1] Fuel/Air mixture is too much fuel or not enough air

2] Engine coolant temperature sensor

3} Throttle Body

Changing plugs, wires & ects should help the rough idle.

[dansl2]

Just noticed you are a new member (welcome). Check the "how to" sections for some pretty good instructions on...well, how to do this stuff. It is mostly pretty easy (heck, I did it) I think you can do all this stuff in a couple of hours & for less money than you think. Highly recommended are NGK V-Power plugs ($1.39-$1.99/ea, set of wires-approx $25, ects (DEALER ONLY) $20, can of throttle body spray-$1.99]. If I forgot anything, others will chime in I am sure.

[the_new_raceman]

Yeah welcome to the boards.

[Dingo Warrior]

I checked the throttle body and because its a TBI, its still pretty clean. So my next step would be to replace the ECTS, which brings me to the next question: On 91'-94' models (mine is 94') a coolant temperature sender and a coolant temperature sensor are used seperate. On newer models, only one 2-wire sensor is used for both functions. Since I have the seperate kind, do I need to replace both, or just the sensor?

[Dingo Warrior]

I found out that the one-wire sensor sends a signal to the gauges, and the two-wire sensor sends a signal to the pcm. I replaced the one that sends the signal to the pcm, then reset the pcm by pulling the "b" fuse, and it seems to have fixed my problem-it isn't as sluggish as it used to be. Thanks everybody for your help!

[dansl2]

Glad to hear it has smoothed out, & thanks for the update. Also, did you pull the TB & clean it or just look into it? Usually the throttle valve top is pretty clean looking, but the underside often looks ugly & needs to be cleaned. You don't necessarily hHAVE to remove the TB, just spray it out pretty good & use a toothbrus to scrape as much carbon off the valve & throat as you can. It also helps to remove the sensors & clean out the ports for them also, if you can get to them. I recommend removing TB for easier access-not hard to do, just be careful removing the TB itself to avoid messing up the gasket & connector wires.

[Dingo Warrior]

I just looked into the tb and it looked pretty clean. I read somewhere that you really don't need to clean a TBI type because gas is always running through it and keeps it clean. The multi-port type is the kind that gets dirty.

After driving my car some more, it seems as though I have not completely fixed my problem....I tried passing, and it still acted very sluggish...it seems that when I give it alot of gas, it doesn't want to shift until the tachometer gets close to the red (which takes a long time). The engine just gets louder, but my speed does not increase until it finally shifts. But it seems to shift fine when I don't give it alot of gas. I have noticed I have an exhaust leak. Could this be the problem? Or any other ideas of what it would be?

[alleninpa]

It starting to sound more like a fuel delivery problem, either too rich or too lean.
How many miles are on the fuel filter?
Has the O2 sensor been replaced?

[Dingo Warrior]

I'm not sure how many miles are on the filter because I bought the car used at 90,000. I now have about 110,000. I have been thinking about replacing the fuel filter though...guess I'll have to do that. I never replaced the O2 sensor (I'm assuming oxygen sensor) either.