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Old 05-07-2004, 12:23 PM   #1
dave.sl
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Default Thank you and timing chain question

Hello everyone. New member. First thank you to wolfman's posts on ects diagnosis/replacement. I was able to take care of that problem and my 98 SL (78k) is running fine now. Recently, I have noticed the "diesel" noise on upgrades and when the car is lugging a little. I suspect worn timing chain. Not too noticeable with windows up. Nothing at cruising speeds or at idle. Any input appreciated. Also the brake rotors are definitely warped and I am real easy on this car. Are they noted for this? I bought this car 3 years ago with 36k on it. So far aside from regular tuneups, just the crank sensor and two ects repairs. (I now have the updated brass one). Guess I am spoiled with my 4 toyota Celicas that rarely need repairs though parts are very high compared to Saturn. Love the plastic panels and plan to keep the car in top shape and for a long time. Finally, what are thoughts on switching to mobil 1 10w-30. Thanks in advance for reply.

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Old 05-07-2004, 02:26 PM   #2
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Default Re: Thank you and timing chain question

Quote:
Originally posted by dave.sl
Recently, I have noticed the "diesel" noise on upgrades and when the car is lugging a little.
Would you rephase that, please?

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Old 05-07-2004, 03:55 PM   #3
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My 98 SL runs fine but sounds like it has a diesel engine (not pinging) on uphill with engine lugging a little. Do not notice it when the car isn't moving. Also do not hear the noise at any steady speed or decelerating. Most pronounced in third or fourth gear.

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Old 05-07-2004, 06:00 PM   #4
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replacing motor mounts is always a good place to start when thrumming noises are noticed........if they are original, 78k miles may be enough to wear them out. Not too expensive or hard to do either.

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Old 05-07-2004, 08:24 PM   #5
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Timing chains tend to be more noisey at idle. Not to say that they don't make noise at higher RPM's or driving but at idle they do shine--noise wise. Noises being very hard to figure out here it may be limited what we can do for you.

The conditions that you describe the noise happening under are classic predetonation/knocking/pinging conditions. Try switching fuels, fuel grades, running some techron through the fuel system. Perhaps an engine decarb service of some kind. If you feel it is a mechanical noise it may be worth while taking it to a shop (Saturn??) taking some one for a test drive to make the noise happen and get their opinion.

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Old 05-07-2004, 09:25 PM   #6
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Thanks. will try the above. Been awhile since I ran techron thru. Will try one tank higher octane too and see if any difference. In the meantime, I will continue to enjoy the car. Like the simplicity. Closest I could get to the early 60's cars I am used to working on and no power steering doesn't bother me. Also after all of the posts about bad upper mounts, I went out and gave mine a good look. Looks/feels fine. Put some rubber conditioner on the rubber part of the mount. Hopefully that won't hurt anything and may delay the rubber cracking. This car originally came from upstate New York and hopefully I got to it before the salt up there did too much damage. This is a 98 and the first week I had it 3 years ago, the muffler clamp rotted right off. Replaced under warranty but it was comical to watch the toyota mechanics trying to figure out how to put the new one from Saturn on. )Car was bought used from Toyota dealer. ) Thanks again for the replies.

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Old 05-08-2004, 09:32 PM   #7
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If you bought the car with 36k on the clock, it is a fair bet that the OEM front brake rotors are still on it. That being the case, replacing the front rotors with NON OEM "cheap chinese" rotors (About $20 each) and new pads will solve the warping problem permanantly most likely. Turn them or put new OEM's back on, and it will be back. A search of the board under "front brake rotors" or "warped rotors" will reveal all you'd ever want to know.

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Old 05-08-2004, 11:26 PM   #8
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Thanks. Will take care of that shortly. Just not used to rotors wearing out on the other cars. Think I can handle the price at AZ or similar though. Read your other post about the guide pin lube etc.

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