2.2 ecotec removal top or bottom 05 Vue

[Srjs28]

Getting ready to do an engine swap on my 05 Vue. I’ve done some research on this forum and in 2 different manuals but could not find a definitive answer on whether or not you can pull the motor from the top. Manual states it must come out with the trans attached out the bottom of vehicle. But I’ve also read that it has been pulled through the top. Anybody been successful in pulling the motor out of the top. Looking for instructions and pics

[waiter21]

When I replaced my clutch, I looked at this subject carefully.

I finally came to the conclusion it would be about the same amount of effort either way, so I decided to drop the cradle..

In your case, It would be a little easier to drop the cradle with engine/tranny still on the cradle..

IMPORTANT - When you disconnect the wiring, mark the connectors on the Throttle body and the fuel injector connectors. These two connectors can be connected accidentally switched. If they are, you nuke the ECM..

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=222576

..

[Srjs28]

Can it be dropped out the bottom with the use of floor jacks and jack stands? Will I have enough clearance to get the assembly out from underneath vehicle. As I do not have or have access to a car hoist.

[waiter21]

Can it be dropped out the bottom with the use of floor jacks and jack stands?

The entire assembly, probably not.

I'm thinking:

If you remove the hood, use a floor crane (hoist) to lift/support the engine / tranny / cradle assembly from the top. After everything is disconnected, the bolts are removed, you can lower the assembly to the ground.

Then use the floor crane to lift the front of the vehicle up so you can either pull the cradle out or push the car back.

When I did my clutch, I supported the engine/tranny from the top, separated it from the cradle, then lowered the cradle only (no engine/ tranny) with a floor jack. The engine stayed in the car and I separated the tranny out the bottom.

[1badnotch]

I have an '06 Vue 2.2L,5 speed. I have pulled the motor out through the top a few times now. You need to remove the battery,battery box,airbox,unhook the wiring from motor/trans,remove intake and exhaust manifolds,alternator,unbolt AC compressor and rest on cradle,remove wheels,calipers,rotors,strut to spindle bolts,both CV axles,support vehicle with blocks on frame behind cradle,remove motor/trans mounts and pull motor and trans through top with engine hoist. I takes me about 3 hours by myself from start until motor/trans in on the floor.

[oldmanina2005vu]

I have done it both ways but in my opinion it is much easier to do by dropping the cradle. I remove the hood first thing so I have plenty of working room. I remove the cradle entirely with the steering and knuckles attached. The cradle is not very heavy and can be lowered one side at a time after removing the four cradle bolts and having the cradle supported by jack stands. You will have to remove the lower engine and transmission mount center bolts. Make sure you have 18mm sockets and wrenches on hand. Drain all fluids including transmission fluid first. The car will have to be elevated in the front to where you have at least 26" of clearance through the passenger side wheel well. The valve cover will need to be removed along with the exhaust manifold and intake manifold, all the wiring harnesses, radiator hoses, fuel lines, and vacuum lines will need to be disconnected. Both drive axles need to be pulled. Be darn sure you disconnect the battery before you remove any ECM, TCM, or ICM connections.

After I drop the cradle it is supported by the two end motor mounts. I then connect my engine hoist and lift the engine slightly to allow me to remove the three engine mount bolts from each end. I then lower the engine onto my garage floor. I use my engine hoist on the passenger side lifting eye and lift the engine slightly. You can then muscle the engine and transmission out the passenger side. Having some heavy cardboard or 1/4" plywood under it helps it slide. I am 69 years old and medium build and I have no problem doing this.

Word of warning. If you live in the snow belt or this SUV has you may find that the front cradle bolts spin in the pocket they sit in. If this happens then your only alternative is to open up the hole that you can look through to see the nut. The nut has a little flimsy (thanks GM) sheet metal sleeve that holds it in place. It will probably be rusted gone. If you open up the hole you will be able to get a 7/8" open end wrench on it to hold it. Plan on using lots of rust penetrant.

Reassemble in reverse order.

[Srjs28]

Thanks for all the info. I would like to drop it to the floor but I’m bony going to have the clearance to get the assembly out from underneath the vehicle

[Shawn t]

Originally Posted by Srjs28

Getting ready to do an engine swap on my 05 Vue. I’ve done some research on this forum and in 2 different manuals but could not find a definitive answer on whether or not you can pull the motor from the top. Manual states it must come out with the trans attached out the bottom of vehicle. But I’ve also read that it has been pulled through the top. Anybody been successful in pulling the motor out of the top. Looking for instructions and pics

You can pull the motor threw the top but the transmission has to come with it and everything except steering will be touched lots of work but if don't have car hoist like me it works

[bsconz]

For all those reading the various top vs bottom engine removal posts, I just pulled the motor out through the top of a 2006 Vue with the 2.2L Ecotec and automatic transmission. It was a piece of cake.

Tools Needed: jack, jack stands, engine hoist (I have a 2 ton from Horrible Freight), electric impact helps a bunch, various hand tools (1/2” and 3/8” drive metric sockets, wrenches, drain pan(s), creeper, etc.

Basic Process:
Remove hood, remove battery, lift onto jack stands (get front tires about 8” off ground for plenty of room to work under), start draining coolant and oil, remove airbox/ECU/intake manifold, disconnect heater hoses from thermostat area, remove upper and lower radiator hoses, remove accessory belt, remove alternator, remove a/c compressor bolts (don’t disconnect a/c lines), remove right front wheel, remove crank pulley, disconnect exhaust pipe from header (leave hanging), remove exhaust header, unbolt upper right engine mount from frame, use jack to lift engine up just enough to put a piece of wood under mount to keep engine raised slightly (this is to provide clearance for getting the oil pan out because of its shape and interference), remove oil pan, remove starter, remove spark plugs (to make turning engine over easier, unbolt torque converter from flywheel (put trans in neutral and spin engine by hand to get all 3 bolts).

Start removing the bell housing bolts. The 2 in the back under the coolant transfer tube are a pain to get to. Good extensions and wobbles are important here. I used a 1/2” drive long ratchet and 6” extension to get them broke loose then used an electric impact to get fully out.

At this point, I connected up the hoist, raised a slight bit, removed the wood block, and lowered back down to find the neutral position and then out just a little preload back on the hoist.

Finish removing the remaining bell housing bolts including the 2 smaller ones that attach the transaxle to the block at the bottom right area.

Have a drain pan under the bell housing to catch atf spilling out of the torque converter.

Start separating the engine from the trans as you hoist up. Keep the torque converter inside the bell housing.

There is more than enough room.

I’ll take more photos when I reinstall the engine next week.

If anyone wants to see something specific, please just post your request here.

[bsconz]

50E47E41-FB95-432A-BD68-DB5DE7ABAD03.jpg

Here’s the proof. I think for the average amateur, this is the best way to do an engine swap in these vehicles.

I can think of ways to drop the whole cradle out the bottom without a lift but it would rely on other tools...like an A-frame shop crane.