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Old 04-23-2013, 12:22 PM   #1
hunt4steve
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

While I had the engine out I decided I might as well rebuild the transmission and ensure that all gears, synchros and bearings were in good shape.

Dirty and in need of a cleaning.....



Shifter mount....I was really quite surprised at the amount of rust on this bracket.....




So, I cleaned 'em up and painted them to add a bit of protection.




Here the brackets are back in place. Note I replaced the shifter cables as well. The cable ends that connected to the transmission were pretty ratted out



While I had the shifter apart, I cleaned it up and put some grease on the plastic to help keep the shifter nice and smooth




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Old 04-23-2013, 12:27 PM   #2
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

It has been reported that this little plastic bushing becomes brittle and breaks. When this breaks, the driver is unable to shift properly.....



SaturnBusingMan makes a small stainless steel cup that replaces this bushing. "Stainless Saturn Stick Shift Shifter Cable Bushing". You can find this item on Ebay.





You'll need some J-B weld to "weld" the busing to the shift-ball on the end of the shifter




Use a clamp to hold the bushing in place while the J-B weld solidifies in place over the Bushing ball....



Then, you can place the plastic washers over the bushing, and clip the plastic washers in place over the steel busing, with the provided clip.



Here is the other end of the shifter cables. The original cable boots were torn and looking pretty bad.


Old shifter cable boots

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Old 04-23-2013, 12:32 PM   #3
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Now I started to get into the actual transmission. Here I removed the end cover of the transmission and the shifter housing.





When trying to remove the Input & Output shaft nuts, you need to ensure the transmission is immobilized. I drilled a couple of holes in my work bench, and ran a couple of larger bolts through the top transmission mounts into the bench holes. This worked very well to keep the transmission from moving.





Shifter forks lined up when removing the shifter housing.


Shifter put into gear (Reverse gear I believe) so that the Input & Output shafts would not move when taking the Nuts off of the shafts.

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Old 04-23-2013, 12:42 PM   #4
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

When taking the gears apart, be absolutely sure to keep the Synchro-Gears lined up. If they get out of alignment, you will have issues. Here you can see there are match marks on the gears to indicate how they are supposed to go together.






Here is the differential, getting ready to be pulled apart so I can replace the carrier bearings and the Differential Roll Pin....


Spider gears inside the differential, and the plastic shim that takes up some space in there




Pulling off one of the carrier bearings


Pressing on a new Carrier Bearing






Using a 5/32 punch to knock out the Roll Pin


Coming out the other side



And, here is the Roll Pin that came out of a working differential.
This should be a warning to anybody who has a Saturn with high mileage. Eventually, the stock pin will fail, and when it does the Differential Center Pin will be allow to be ejected from the Differential Carrier, and out of the transmission body. This will result in a larger hole in the transmission body, and then you'll be looking for another transmission.....






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Old 04-23-2013, 12:48 PM   #5
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Instead of putting another stock Roll Pin into the differential, per OldNuc's excellent recommendation, I opted to put a larger 3/16" McMaster-Carr Roll pin in. As you can see in this image, the McMaster-Carr is a much better Roll pin, and will hold up to any power the Saturn can put down to the differential.



To drill out the Differential Center Pin and Differential Carrier you should get a Carbide drill bit from Carbide+. This 3/16" Drill bit does an excellent job of cutting through the hardened steel of the Center Pin.





Here I'm measuring the pass-through using a 3/16" Drill bit. The drill bit went through the carrier and the Center Pin.



Knocking the new McMaster-Carr 3/16" Roll Pin into the carrier and through the Center Pin





This shows how the McMaster Carr Roll Pin aligns up when centered in the Center Pin


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Old 04-23-2013, 12:58 PM   #6
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1993 SC1
Wrench Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

The rebuild kit included a new Output Shaft Pilot Bearing. This bearing fits into the Clutch Bell Housing. When pulling this bearing out, be careful not to damage the plastic cut that fits below the bearing. ALSO, note the snap ring that needs to be remove before the bearing can come out.



For some reason, my kit included a Pilot Bearing for some other transmission.......don't know why...






I visited Harbor Freight to pick up a Bearing puller kit. The problem with this kit was the the point section of the finger spreader interfered with the plastic piece sticking up in the middle of the bearing.



To fix this issue, I cut off the tip of the finger spreader, and used a socket in its place.






Turning the Bell Housing over and pulling down is much easier than yanking upwards.



The Bearing is coming out. I put a bunch of lubricant around the bearing in the hopes that the fluid would help in getting the bearing out......


And, the bearing is out, and the plastic piece is free.


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Old 04-23-2013, 01:18 PM   #7
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Pressing out more bearings




Pulling another bearing off the Output shaft...



Parts and more parts......


I made a little support under the housing to support it while I was pressing in a bearing. This was to prevent any flex in the housing



Be sure to use the correct Loctite when putting the Output Shaft Pilot bearing back into the Bell Housing



Input shaft




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Old 04-23-2013, 01:22 PM   #8
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1993 SC1
Wrench Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Starting to put it all back together






New parts




















Last edited by hunt4steve; 04-23-2013 at 01:28 PM..

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Old 04-23-2013, 01:27 PM   #9
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild




Test fitting the case in place


Snap Rings, that will hold the bearings on the Input & Output shafts in place, and ultimately will lift the Output Shaft off the Ring gear....just a tad..







Drive shaft seal with the dust shield in place



Here is the extra bearing that was in the rebuild kit......





Input & Output shaft nuts. Old and New


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Old 04-23-2013, 01:34 PM   #10
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1993 SC1
Default Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

When installing a new Clutch Mastery Slave Cylinder, you'll need to move the brake reservoir so you can get access to the spot where the Master Cylinder goes.


The Transmission Dip Stick was loose, so I took it apart and put an extra washer in the stack. This allowed the rubber stopped to be compressed a bit more and expand more to fill the dip-stick hole.







Flywheel installation, and getting ready to mate the transmission to the engine.







Installing the pressure plate and getting it all aligned up




Fork Bearing








back in place

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Old 04-24-2013, 09:42 AM   #11
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1993 SC1
Wrench Testing the new clutch

If you have replaced the clutch, you can follow this procedure to test the operation of the clutch well before starting the engine....

Taken from another thread
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...&postcount=173


This evening I successfully tested the clutch AND the Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder installation.

Since the Clutch system is a closed hydraulic system, it can be tested once the engine and transmission has been put back into the car, without needing any electrical or mechanical power from the engine. In my case, when the engine was still OUT of the car, I took that time to install the new Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder. I tied up the Clutch Slave Cylinder out of the way during the engine installation, just to make sure it would not be damaged.

Items you will need for this testing process:

One or two assistants
Long bar to keep the clutch pedal depressed during the testing OR use the second assistant
21mm socket to manually turn Engine Crank Clockwise


These are the steps I took to verify that the Transmission was working AND that the newly installed Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder was working:

Put Transmission into Neutral, turn Crank bolt, have assistant verify that Ring Gear IS NOT turning, as viewed from the Drivers Side of the Transmission.
Put Transmission into 1st gear, turn Crank bolt, have assistant verify that Ring Gear IS turning CCW (Counter Clock Wise) as viewed from the Drivers Side Output Shaft of the Transmission.
Put Transmission into Reverse, turn Crank bolt, have assistant verify that Ring Gear IS turning CW (Clock Wise) as viewed from the Drivers Side Output Shaft of the Transmission.
WHILE Transmission is in Reverse, AND you are turning Crank bolt, have second assistant depress clutch pedal to the floor, as though one would be shifting normally. First assistant should then verify that Ring Gear WAS turning CW, and then stopped turning when second assistant depressed clutch pedal.
Put Transmission into 1st gear.
WHILE Transmission is in 1st gear, AND you are turning the Crank bolt, have second assistant depress clutch pedal to the floor, as though one would be shifting normally. First assistant should then verify that Ring Gear WAS turning CCW, and then stopped turning when second assistant depressed clutch pedal.


If ALL of these scenerios are completed successfully, then your newly installed clutch is working correctly. This includes your newly installed Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder, and your transmission if you rebuilt that as well.

The reason I put the transmission into 1st AND Reverse is to test any potential binding of the Transmission. I want to be sure that the Transmission (which I recently rebuilt) was working correctly. This test will ensure that your clutch is disengaging the pressure plate as it should be.

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Old 04-08-2014, 10:31 PM   #12
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1993 SC2
Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I was wondering what all has to be done just to pull out the diff and put in a new roll pin like Hunt4Steve does in this thread? Can the diff be removed easily without taking all the gears off the shafts? When you remove the pressed on bearings, will the new ones press on to the same spot easily? Is there shimming required when re-installing the diff into the trans? If all you did was just remove the diff, fix the roll pin, and re-install, what is a guesstimate of how much time that alone takes? Not including the time to remove the trans.

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Old 04-08-2014, 10:57 PM   #13
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Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

No, you disassemble the trans down to the point you can lift it out.

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Old 04-09-2014, 08:57 AM   #14
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1993 SC1
Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Yup, as OldNuc has stated, it will need to be disassembled to the point where the Diff can be lifted out. If you study the pictures, you'll see that the upper portion of the Input shaft will need to be taken apart, and then both shafts can be pulled out as whole units.

You need to really study all of the pictures to get a good understanding of what is happening in there.

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Old 05-13-2014, 06:56 PM   #15
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Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Tearing apart my transmission and need a little help. Got the end cover off and both the gears off. The bellhousing bolts are all loose. So do the snap rings on the 2 bearing need to be squeezed in or out to get the housing off or not at all. I'm having to use this as a guide since I don't have a manual. Any help here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rick

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Old 05-13-2014, 09:38 PM   #16
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Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Cliff Notes version. http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...sassembly.html

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Old 10-22-2014, 02:10 PM   #17
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1993 SC1
Default old parts

Unfortunately, our Saturns are quickly becoming relics in the automotive industry. Getting parts for these cars is becoming more difficult.

When I ordered the kit to rebuild my transmission, I was fortunate enough to find somebody that had the complete kit. Today, seems like these are all gone.

The guy I ordered from (ebay)



is no longer around


When it comes to parts, I suspect there are bearings out there that are the correct size, but finding them appears to be the real challenge.

We may have to just measure the bearings OD, ID and width and try to find something that fits this measurement.....

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Old 10-22-2014, 04:55 PM   #18
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Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

In the not too distant past I inquired of rebuild parts availability and found that the suppliers to the mass trans rebuilders had everything required. Unfortunately these sources are not easy to locate as they do not require web sales etc and their customers are comfortable ordering by phone on an open account with a 30 day to pay setup. To get this access you usually need to setup a credit account or find someone who has an account and will order parts for you. Generally if you can locate an independent general transmission shop that is not part of a national chain they will supply you with parts as long as you actually know what you need.

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Old 10-22-2014, 04:59 PM   #19
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Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
In the not too distant past I inquired of rebuild parts availability and found that the suppliers to the mass trans rebuilders had everything required. Unfortunately these sources are not easy to locate as they do not require web sales etc and their customers are comfortable ordering by phone on an open account with a 30 day to pay setup. To get this access you usually need to setup a credit account or find someone who has an account and will order parts for you. Generally if you can locate an independent general transmission shop that is not part of a national chain they will supply you with parts as long as you actually know what you need.

Good to know.

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Old 07-14-2015, 10:42 PM   #20
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Default Re: Hunt4Steve's 1993 MP2 5-spd Transmission rebuild

how has this held up?

...
I could never remember if it is SL-1 or LS-1. Then I realized it's the slow one. SL-1.

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