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Old 02-19-2006, 04:51 AM   #1
ls1racer ws6
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Default stalling problem after replacing timing chain, valves

hello all, first post here, helpful sight you got going here... anyway i got some problems with my car, a 1994 SC1.

Just finished replacing the timing chain and unfortunately all 8 valves. Ok so the tear down went good and so did reassembly. Started the car and it ran fine, until i went to road test it.

As soon as i stepped on the brake the engine died. I thought maybe it was a fluke and started the engine again. It fired right up and ran beautiful. After that if i would let the car idle it would slowly lose RPM and die. The warmer it got the quicker it started to do this ( i let it run in the garage for over 10 minutes and it didnt stall on the initial startup). Once i took it out on the road the problem kept reappearing.

Normally when shifting the computer will maintain engine rpm between shifts, like if you take 1st gear up to 3,000 rpms, the computer holds 3,000 rpms until you shift into second. Ok, so now my car was fine before the repair, always held the rpms up during the shift and never stalled. Now it only holds the RPMS up about 50% of the time. The other times the rpms just rocket down to idle and usually the engine will stall if i dont touch the gas. Coming to a stop from 25mph in neutral the engine almost always is on the verge of stalling.

When i removed the head i left the intake right on there and didnt touch the throttle body or the intake. Im guessing maybe the problem lies with the idle air control valve, but dont understand why this would all of a sudden go bad especially since i didnt remove it or anything.

I guess im just looking for other things that would cause these symptoms. All vacuum lines are i believe attached as far as i can see. Could the ECTS cause this type of behavior?

all help and ideas appreciated greatly!!!


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2000 Ram Air WS6 Trans Am (little more powerful then my saturn )
1995 Nissan Pathfinder
1994 Saturn SC1
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Old 02-19-2006, 06:36 AM   #2
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Default Re: stalling problem after replacing timing chain, valves

Basically two things control IDLE speed:

The IAC and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)

My vote at this point would be that one of those is not plugged in correctly, or is damaged. Since the car WILL idle in NUETRAL and sitting still, (I assume at the correct ~800 RPM) AND it is not "seeing" the throttle close when you shift...TPS. BUT, since it won't idle right as it warms up...that suggests the IAC valve.

In short, its NOT the engine, its something monitoring or controlling it.
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Old 02-19-2006, 12:20 PM   #3
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Default Re: stalling problem after replacing timing chain, valves

it is idleing below 800 rpm, maybe around 500 when its fully warm...

it is throwing a ses code, i gotta get it scanned i guess

BTW, now the fan isnt turning on even with the ac, and i dont hear the ac compressor kicking on. I did remove the eletrical connector from that when i did the job, but is there more then one connection there that i am missing now?

Thats cool i noticed your from maine, im in bangor, where abouts are you?
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Old 02-19-2006, 03:27 PM   #4
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Default Re: stalling problem after replacing timing chain, valves

ok cleared the computer, took it for a drive and checked the codes. got 3 flashes pause and 3 flashes which i would assume is code 33? From what i can check that is a map sensor problem

33 MAP sensor signal voltage was greater than 4.2 volts when throttle angle was less than 5%.

Could this be caused by a faulty tps? There was no TPS code only code 33 in the computer.

Another note. When the motor is cold there is no sign of this problem. Could it be because when cold it is running in open loop mode?

I am also getting two blinking lights which i believe is low coolant and overheating. It is stone cold when the light is on and the coolant is full. Possibly could have damaged the ECTS when removing the head?
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Old 02-19-2006, 05:50 PM   #5
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Default Re: stalling problem after replacing timing chain, valves

well found the problem... stupid really. Forgot to hook up the vacuum line to the map sensor. Surprized a vacuum line like that could cause it to stall so easily. Running good as of now knock on wood
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