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Old 06-23-2013, 11:02 PM   #1
cityhawk
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1993 SW2
Default Rear door sills

Repairing right rear door sill, day 1....

Unfortunately, the replacement sills had a lot of extra material up the C-pillar, but did not go far enough forward toward the B-pillar, so I will be adding a little extra piece in the front of the new sill.
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...
Saturns:
1993 SW2 MT 208,000 hard Boston city miles ("Rozzie")
Gone but not forgotten:
2001 LW300 ("Elle")
1999 SW2 MT
Project cars:
1966 Corvair Monza convertible
1928 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:55 PM   #2
off-track
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Almost speechless.. I admire your effort but.. why? Did you cut out the replacement sill plates or get them from someone else? In the old days I'd think that would take leading?

On a related note.. My son is working on a total repaint of his Sunfire. His GF (doing it) asked how my cheapo HF HVLP sprayer gun worked and showed them the job I did ~2 yrs ago. DAMN, it's rusting on the rears again!
...
1997 - SL2, barebones, 161k, Auto - Rebuild complete and.. burnt a valve 20k later Arrgh!
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:29 AM   #3
tunedbysaturnsl
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Default Re: Rear door sills

That's an awesome effort. I never knew that could happen, but it makes sense now after seeing water hanging out there a couple of times. Looks like I'll be investing in some POR15 in a few months and painting under those door sill pieces.
...
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:09 AM   #4
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Where did you get the door sill material?
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:25 AM   #5
cityhawk
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Quote:
Originally Posted by off-track View Post
Almost speechless.. I admire your effort but.. why?
1) because I can.
2) Because Saturn isn't making any new SW2s anymore
3) Because there is no Saturn corporation anymore
4) Because this car means a lot to me
5) Because preserving this car, any viable Saturn S-Series car, and the memory of Saturn is important to me.

Quote:
Did you cut out the replacement sill plates or get them from someone else? In the old days I'd think that would take leading?
I got the replacement sills from Saturnautosalvage.com. had them shipped along with my transaxle when I ordered it last year... Or maybe with my LW300 subframe, I can't remember which.

I'll have to do the left one also sometime before the winter, but the right one was in much worse shape.
...
Saturns:
1993 SW2 MT 208,000 hard Boston city miles ("Rozzie")
Gone but not forgotten:
2001 LW300 ("Elle")
1999 SW2 MT
Project cars:
1966 Corvair Monza convertible
1928 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:07 PM   #6
scotty6486
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Looks like it's turning out nicely. My passenger side sill was also the worst one for some reason, it was so bad that the sill had a massive hole in it.
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:29 PM   #7
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Did you POR-15 the insides of that patch before sealing it up?


Quote:
Originally Posted by cityhawk View Post
1) because I can.
2) Because Saturn isn't making any new SW2s anymore
3) Because there is no Saturn corporation anymore
4) Because this car means a lot to me
5) Because preserving this car, any viable Saturn S-Series car, and the memory of Saturn is important to me.



I got the replacement sills from Saturnautosalvage.com. had them shipped along with my transaxle when I ordered it last year... Or maybe with my LW300 subframe, I can't remember which.

I'll have to do the left one also sometime before the winter, but the right one was in much worse shape.
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:13 PM   #8
dbetz
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Default Re: Rear door sills

I've often been curious, but what precautions should one take when welding on the car to prevent damaging the electronics?

I presume, of course, the whole disconnect the battery thing, but was wondering how much one needed to worry considering the frame is a ground.

Or does the the circuit "short" itself so thoroughly to the welding ground that secondary currents need not be worried about?

Btw, looks great so far! Am interested in seeing the finished result!
...
Thanks! David

1999 SW2 Auto 150k miles; Dark Plum Metallic
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Old 06-24-2013, 05:06 PM   #9
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Quote:
Originally Posted by cityhawk View Post
1) because I can.
2) Because Saturn isn't making any new SW2s anymore
3) Because there is no Saturn corporation anymore
4) Because this car means a lot to me
5) Because preserving this car, any viable Saturn S-Series car, and the memory of Saturn is important to me.



I got the replacement sills from Saturnautosalvage.com. had them shipped along with my transaxle when I ordered it last year... Or maybe with my LW300 subframe, I can't remember which.

I'll have to do the left one also sometime before the winter, but the right one was in much worse shape.
I do admire the dedication since I would most certainly do the same! Oh and by the way, that you for sharing that link. Could come in handy should I ever need a part that the local yards here don't have.
...
1995 Saturn SL1 "Abby"-Powertrain Swap Completed. Running As Of 07/27/2013
1997 Mitusbishi GST "Phoebe"

Looking For:
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:38 PM   #10
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Great job City hawk! I did the same repair to both sides of my 96' SL2 .

If interested see my previous post. The factory Body manual was a big help.

My repair went from front of the rear door frame, to the rear wheel arch .

The shop manual stresses the need to carefully rust proof that area inside

and out and ,recommends either a two part epoxy or "2n1" urethane, along

careful seam sealing. High strength steels are prone to rust and that area

is one of the few areas that its used ( pg.108 of Body/Collision service manual.) You think it may be important?

I didn't post pictures due to lack of posts; but I could show the near perfect
results if any one wanted.

Any way I did it for the same reasons you did, and I could not say it better then you!

Best,
Alan
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:45 PM   #11
johnny95sl2
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Heres the thread were I repaired mine a couple summers back. They still look great!

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=167679
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:25 PM   #12
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Default Re: Rear door sills

I'm still unsure of the "the proper way of doing things" here so If I make a mistake please tell me. My main reason for keeping and repairing this SL2
is IT'S FUN TO DRIVE, and is supported by the best owner's forum going.

The car is well designed ( it's got some warts) for driving and repair and I do a lot of driving through big city spaces.

Changing Gears now, Old Nuc and others advise disconnecting the negative
terminal on the battery before welding on any thing with electronics on board.It helps to have a CLEAN , paint and grease free spot near your
weld to place your ground clamp as well. IF you are welding on an Aluminum
Body with TIG (using ac current with HF) its best to remove any sensitive
goodies.... THE END. Alan
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:27 PM   #13
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Default Re: Rear door sills

I por-15ed the parts of the inside of the box that weren't directly involved with the weld. I would love to be able to spray a load of the stuff inside the will if I could. I have some more pixbut will upload them when I can.
...
Saturns:
1993 SW2 MT 208,000 hard Boston city miles ("Rozzie")
Gone but not forgotten:
2001 LW300 ("Elle")
1999 SW2 MT
Project cars:
1966 Corvair Monza convertible
1928 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:40 PM   #14
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Go buy a couple cans of foam, and blow them full of foam. That stuff will keep water out for years then just coat the outside with POR-15. You will have to drill a couple of injection holes. Get the low pressure expanding foam or you may have to deal with unplanned distortion.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:10 PM   #15
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Thanks for the tip OldNuc!

I've got some more pictures of my progress today....
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File Type: jpg IMG_20130624_183535.jpg (136.1 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20130624_193202.jpg (102.5 KB, 106 views)
...
Saturns:
1993 SW2 MT 208,000 hard Boston city miles ("Rozzie")
Gone but not forgotten:
2001 LW300 ("Elle")
1999 SW2 MT
Project cars:
1966 Corvair Monza convertible
1928 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:23 PM   #16
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Yes, blow it completely full of foam and then trim off the excess squeeze out. Can not rust if not wet. Seal any unused openings with the aluminum body or duct tape.
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:11 PM   #17
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Yes, blow it completely full of foam and then trim off the excess squeeze out. Can not rust if not wet. Seal any unused openings with the aluminum body or duct tape.
Interesting idea. Would that interfere with the sunroof drains up front? I'm tempted to do this on my SL2 to keep rust from forming again.
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Old 08-22-2013, 10:40 AM   #18
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Go buy a couple cans of foam, and blow them full of foam. That stuff will keep water out for years then just coat the outside with POR-15. You will have to drill a couple of injection holes. Get the low pressure expanding foam or you may have to deal with unplanned distortion.
OK, I finally have a day where I can do this. Not sure where I go about buying this foam. Is it an automotive thing or is it like a Home Depot kind of thing?
...
Saturns:
1993 SW2 MT 208,000 hard Boston city miles ("Rozzie")
Gone but not forgotten:
2001 LW300 ("Elle")
1999 SW2 MT
Project cars:
1966 Corvair Monza convertible
1928 Ford Model A Tudor Sedan
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:31 AM   #19
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Default Re: Rear door sills

Plain old low pressure big box foam. Get the stuff that claims it will not bow the door or window frame when it cures. Thee is low expansion and regular and low pressure-no bow, you want the no bow formulation. Sometimes the can indicates the primary use is to fill cavities around windows and doors and that it will not bow the frame. The low expansion foam is a high density foam and will not fill all the voids. The regular will fill things fine but be prepared to do some serious trimming as it expands out every crack and hole. This stuff is moisture cure and it will take some time to fully cure.

Big Box lumber and fuzzy dice store has it.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:11 PM   #20
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Default Re: Rear door sills

^ ^ ^ would this foam treatment help in slowing down rust already there?

My rust isn't too bad, and I have no plans to weld in a new sill section (if it comes to that, I'll sell or junk the car). It'd be worth some foam to me to slow down the rust, though... foam on the inside, POR15 or similar on the outside and anything I can reach on the inside, after wirebrushing off the rust
...
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