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Old 12-06-2008, 08:32 PM   #1
Melissa_M
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1999 SL2
Default Q on engine mounts

1999 SL2 manual, 60K
I am planning on replacing my top motor mount. Iím a little annoyed, actually, because it was already replaced, but I can just fit my finger btw the metal and rubber, so I guess itís due again. I donít think the engine vibrates a lot, actually , but when I turn the engine off, the car does seem to move up and down more than Iíd like.

People comment that it is also advisable to do the tranny mount. Are there any specs on when to replace that one? I measured it and the rubber is about 7/8Ē thick. Since this is the mount that is supposed to suppress vertical rebound, I will probably replace it, but I still have a few Q. on the procedure.

I had gotten some ramps, but now I am realizing that a lot of repairs, like the dogbones and tranny mount are accessed thru the wheelwell, and obviously you canít have the wheel on the ramp for that. So I guess you have to use jackstands? RichPin appears to have the pass. wheel on the ramp and the jackstand on the driverís side in his AWESOME video. So is that more secure than 2 jackstands?

I also donít have a hydraulic jack; I am assuming the scissor jack wonít fit for this application (tranny mount)??

I also donít quite get where to put the bar to move the tranny in the final seating of the new mount. Plus I will have to figure out what kind of bar to get, since I canít think of one that I haveÖ.


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Old 12-06-2008, 09:21 PM   #2
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissa_M View Post
1999 SL2 manual, 60K
I am planning on replacing my top motor mount. Iím a little annoyed, actually, because it was already replaced, but I can just fit my finger btw the metal and rubber, so I guess itís due again. I donít think the engine vibrates a lot, actually , but when I turn the engine off, the car does seem to move up and down more than Iíd like.
If its the frown mount (all of the aftermarket mounts) theen your finger will fit when its brand new. You check that one by sticking a 2mm allen wrench int the middle of the mouth, if it goes in its still good. And if not its trash

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissa_M View Post
People comment that it is also advisable to do the tranny mount. Are there any specs on when to replace that one? I measured it and the rubber is about 7/8Ē thick. Since this is the mount that is supposed to suppress vertical rebound, I will probably replace it, but I still have a few Q. on the procedure.
If you have never replaced it then its due. Buy the OEM trans and engine mounts. engine mount 21012185, trans mount 21012951. Ordered mine from GetSaturnParts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissa_M View Post
I had gotten some ramps, but now I am realizing that a lot of repairs, like the dogbones and tranny mount are accessed thru the wheelwell, and obviously you canít have the wheel on the ramp for that. So I guess you have to use jackstands? RichPin appears to have the pass. wheel on the ramp and the jackstand on the driverís side in his AWESOME video. So is that more secure than 2 jackstands?
Yes, one ramp one jack stand. You put both wheels up on ramps and then lift the car slightly so you can stick in the jack stand and then slide the ramp out of the way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissa_M View Post
I also donít have a hydraulic jack; I am assuming the scissor jack wonít fit for this application (tranny mount)??
A hydraulic bottle jack, piece of wood and a jack stand will work if you are on a solid level surface. Bottle jacks tip over. Harbor Freight sells them cheep, along with stands and decent floor jacks. Maybe Santa will buy you a new jack.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissa_M View Post
I also donít quite get where to put the bar to move the tranny in the final seating of the new mount. Plus I will have to figure out what kind of bar to get, since I canít think of one that I haveÖ.

Melissa_M
You release the tension on the engine dogbone by loosening the 2 nuts up through the frame and remove the bolt on the trans dogbone. Its under the air box. Then you can just stick the floor jack with block of wood under the trans and lift it up and change the mount. If you have to pry a 3 foot long 2x4 works well. Replace the engine side first as that will also require loosening the dogbone bracket nuts.
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:25 PM   #3
Melissa_M
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1999 SL2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
If its the frown mount (all of the aftermarket mounts) theen your finger will fit when its brand new. You check that one by sticking a 2mm allen wrench int the middle of the mouth, if it goes in its still good. And if not its trash



If you have never replaced it then its due. Buy the OEM trans and engine mounts. engine mount 21012185, trans mount 21012951. Ordered mine from GetSaturnParts.



Yes, one ramp one jack stand. You put both wheels up on ramps and then lift the car slightly so you can stick in the jack stand and then slide the ramp out of the way.



A hydraulic bottle jack, piece of wood and a jack stand will work if you are on a solid level surface. Bottle jacks tip over. Harbor Freight sells them cheep, along with stands and decent floor jacks. Maybe Santa will buy you a new jack.



You release the tension on the engine dogbone by loosening the 2 nuts up through the frame and remove the bolt on the trans dogbone. Its under the air box. Then you can just stick the floor jack with block of wood under the trans and lift it up and change the mount. If you have to pry a 3 foot long 2x4 works well. Replace the engine side first as that will also require loosening the dogbone bracket nuts.
Thanks for the clarifications. Forgot to look at HF for tools. Santa already got me ramps and a torque wrench and a bunch of sockets, etc.

I do have the 21012185 top mount, not the frowny. It's just 6 yrs old, and my car is low mileage and always garaged, so I hoped that mount would last longer. The prior one lasted less than 3 years, tho, so perhaps 6 years is good.

Still not sure where to place the 2x4 or prybar. Hopefully I will figure it out when I get in there.

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Old 12-06-2008, 11:21 PM   #4
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

If you release both dogbones you can just pull or push on the floor jack and the transaxle will move back and forth. If it does not where to stick the wood is reasonably obvious while you are sitting in the wheel well.

The OEM transaxle mount is the way to go. If you got 6 years out of the good top mount that is real good for that type of part.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:37 PM   #5
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1995 SL1
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Melissa_M View Post
Still not sure where to place the 2x4 or prybar. Hopefully I will figure it out when I get in there.

Melissa_M
The "How To" thread with good pics. Tranny Mount How To

Having a lot of wood sections (1 and 2x4) comes in handy for under jacks and such. I often jack one side of the car and use solid wood (a couple of 4x4s and 2x4 sections for spacing) along with the jack. Very solid and the car can't crush the wood so safe as can be.

I personally see no reason to even lift the opposite side of the car. Having the passenger wheel on the ground will make it more stable if you have to pry much to get the mount to line up.
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:49 AM   #6
DonP
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1995 SL2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

I got my OEM top and tranny mounts from www.SaturnParts.com; $47 and $33 plus shipping.

Actually, you can do the to engine and tranny mounts with one jack stand, no ramps, and a floor jac working one side at a time. Jack standmainly needed to do the driver side tranny mount.

Jack drive side as if changing the front tire, but jack stand under side rail, remove wheel and slash shields. You then use the floor jack to lift the transmission just enough to remove the old mount and install the new mount.

For the top engine mount, no need to jack the car, just lift the engine under the oil pan enough to unload the top mount. You can reach to loosen/tighten the engine dog bone mounts around the wheel with out lifting the car at all.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:08 PM   #7
Melissa_M
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1999 SL2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

OK, I'm still not sure how I'm going to do the tranny mount as far as getting the car on ramps/stands. Right now I don't have a floor jack or jackstands.

In the meantime, I'd like to get the top motor mount done and was going to use threadlocker.
But I recall somebody mentioning that they loosened or removed the top motor mount when they did the tranny mount (to make it easier to move the tranny, I guess).
So should I wait to do them both, or is loosening the dogbones sufficient, or leave the threadlocker off and loosen the top mount later?

I'm pretty good at overthinking stuff, aren't I?

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Old 12-15-2008, 08:47 PM   #8
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

The studs are torqued into the timing cover at 10ft-lb and should have Loctite 242 on them. The nuts on both the studs and frame are torqued to 37ft-lb and thread locker is probably over kill on this side. Not only that it will cause troubles when you wan to do something else. You need a cheap 1 or 2 ton hydraulic jack. Get one from Harbor Freight, they are cheap. That jack and a chunk of 2x4 will prove right handy.
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Old 12-16-2008, 05:03 PM   #9
Melissa_M
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1999 SL2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

I am glad you mentioned the torque specs; I actually had a few different numbers in my notes. On the data from the HowTo section, I keep looking at the Engine Mount: front mount to block = 52ft-lb (even tho I know it's the torque axis mount!). Which part is this??

I (hopefully) am not installing studs, so I will just tighten all 5 nuts to 37ft-lbs. And afterwards I will not forget to loosen and re-tighten the engine strut bracket to cradle nuts at 37 ft-lbs.

My mounts arrived today; I must say Iím not real happy that my OEM tranny mount 21012951 has the dreaded Anchor on it. It also has a ďGenuine GMĒ sticker on it. Is this what yíall have gotten as the OEM part??

Oh, one more thing, speaking of the tranny mount. I made a note that the FSM says that if you have ABS, you must disconnect the master cylinder from the booster and lift it a bit. I DO have ABS. Is it actually necessary to do this?

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Old 12-16-2008, 05:32 PM   #10
DonP
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1995 SL2
Default Re: Q on engine mounts

If the new mount says genuine GM and was packaged accordingly, it should be OK. Beware of mounts that look like they are not in OEM packaging. There is a thread whta has a photo of a used OEM (~14 years), new OEM, and Anchor mount side by side.

Did not need to mess with the booster/ABS when i did my transmission mount on a '95, but I did lift the transmission/engine minimally - just enough to slide the old mount out and new mount in with a bit of manipulation.

I found that a piece of 1x4 onthe jack worked for my lifts, a 2x4 would hve been too thick for my jack.

A floor jack and stands are not expensive, and a handy tool to have when working on the car replacing pads, etc.

Enjoy!
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