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Old 07-12-2015, 05:33 PM   #1
JerryHughes
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1997 SL
Default Top motor mount studs don't line up

Hi everyone,

Need some advice on installing a top motor mount. My neighbor has a 96 SL2 and we have the old mount off. The old mount is original and is in such poor shape, the rubber just flops around in the mount assembly. It's been like this for a long time. Now, attempting to install the new motor mount, if I have the top, three holes lined up with the three studs, the bottom 2 holes are off by at least a half inch! The engine is too far to the rear for the bolts to line up. His dogbones are original too so could this be possibly the reason why the engine is so far from lining up? If so, can we "heave" the engine toward the front of the car so all the bolts line up and if so, where would be a safe place to push a crowbar or some other type of leverage bar until we are able to mount the motor mount? Also, shouldn't he replace the dogbones as soon as possible after the new top mount is on? (Thanks for any timely response----car's not usable right now.) Thank you.

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Old 07-12-2015, 06:15 PM   #2
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1996 SL1
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up mount

I had the exact same problem with a frowny mount, i returned it and got an original GM mount and it went on with no problem.

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Old 07-12-2015, 06:31 PM   #3
shortrun
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1995 SW2
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

I just did mine yesterday. Same thing as you. Just grab the motor and pull it forward. Mine was a full inch to the back, it would have been easier if I had a helper but I was able to do it on my own.

Holy smokes OU812 are you the same as the Mazda MPV forum?

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Old 07-12-2015, 06:38 PM   #4
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1996 SL1
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

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Originally Posted by shortrun View Post
i just did mine yesterday. Same thing as you. Just grab the motor and pull it forward. Mine was a full inch to the back, it would have been easier if i had a helper but i was able to do it on my own.

Holy smokes ou812 are you the same as the mazda mpv forum?
no....

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Old 07-12-2015, 06:49 PM   #5
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2002 SL2
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHughes View Post
Hi everyone,

Need some advice on installing a top motor mount. My neighbor has a 96 SL2 and we have the old mount off. The old mount is original and is in such poor shape, the rubber just flops around in the mount assembly. It's been like this for a long time. Now, attempting to install the new motor mount, if I have the top, three holes lined up with the three studs, the bottom 2 holes are off by at least a half inch! The engine is too far to the rear for the bolts to line up. His dogbones are original too so could this be possibly the reason why the engine is so far from lining up? If so, can we "heave" the engine toward the front of the car so all the bolts line up and if so, where would be a safe place to push a crowbar or some other type of leverage bar until we are able to mount the motor mount? Also, shouldn't he replace the dogbones as soon as possible after the new top mount is on? (Thanks for any timely response----car's not usable right now.) Thank you.
Grab the engine by the hoist bracket hole (where the A/C compressor is attached) and pull the whole engine forward. This may just have happened because you have the car up on jack stands in the front and the engine is leaning backwards (???). That would be my guess anyways.

I see you're an experience member, but just a reminder.....be sure to loosen the two lower torque strut mount bracket nuts and re-tighten when finished. And if the car is on jack stands in the front, I recommend raising the rear end as well before tightening those nuts again. This way the engine should be LEVEL when the torque strut bracket is tightened in its "neutral" position.

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Old 07-12-2015, 09:03 PM   #6
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1997 SL
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Thanks guy, got it! Now, we're taking off the dogbone that's under the battery. Does anyone know if we have to raise the engine by the transmission to get that out? Can't find Richpin's video on that. Thanks.

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Old 07-12-2015, 09:09 PM   #7
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Just unbolt it and pull it loose. It is disabled by removing the bolt at either end if that is all you want to do.

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Old 07-12-2015, 09:10 PM   #8
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1997 SL
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
Just unbolt it and pull it loose. It is disabled by removing the bolt at either end if that is all you want to do.
Thank you! Yes, we are replacing with a new dogbone there and wasn't sure if we had to lift the engine. Easy!

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Old 07-13-2015, 12:10 PM   #9
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1997 SL
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Oh, also, when torqueing the dogbone mounts onto the car, these are the only specs I can find for those. They are----------

Engine Mounts
Front Mount to Block 52
Rear Mounts 35

But when talking about the "Front Mount to Block 52" does this mean the dogbone under the battery?

And by "Rear Mounts 35" does this mean the lower dogbone behind the right front wheel?
Thank you.

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Old 07-13-2015, 12:21 PM   #10
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1997 SW2
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

keep all the mounts loose enough for the engine to find its sweet spot before torquing everything down - I ran mine a few seconds to let it shake itself into a comfy position

...
1997 SW2 used 12/29/2011 with 124,200 -27 mpg
2004 Ion3 new 11/2003 (totaled) 11/2011 -23 mpg
1994 SL1 new traded
1992 SL2 new traded for above
* 1986 Yamaha ce50 Jog -100 mpg

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Old 07-13-2015, 01:28 PM   #11
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHughes View Post
Oh, also, when torqueing the dogbone mounts onto the car, these are the only specs I can find for those. They are----------

Engine Mounts
Front Mount to Block 52
Rear Mounts 35

But when talking about the "Front Mount to Block 52" does this mean the dogbone under the battery?

And by "Rear Mounts 35" does this mean the lower dogbone behind the right front wheel?
Thank you.
Torques specs can be found in this post created by OldNuc
"The 3 studs are torqued into the cover at 9 to 11ft-lb, this is into clean holes. The nuts, 3 on the studs and 2 on the frame are torqued to 37ft-lb and take the engine weight off of the mount when you torque them by jacking it up from below, use a board on the jack."
The lower dogbone mount to cradle spec is also 37ft-lb as per this post also by OldNuc
Top engine mount.
2 mid-rail nuts and 3 timing cover studs are 37ft-lb with load removed from mout when torquing. Studs bottomed out in cover and snug, 7ft-lb max.

Transaxle mount.
mount to cradle nut, 37ft-lb
mount to transaxle bolts, 24ft-lb

torque axis struts.
transaxle side, strut to midrail bolt, 52ft-lb, strut to transaxle bracket, 52ft-lb.
engine side, strut to cradle bracket 52ft-lb, engine strut bracket to cradle 37ft-lb, strut to engine bracket 52ft-lb

Verify that the torque axis strut bolts are of the high strength or back the torque off appropriately as these values have changed over time. Generally the 52ft-lb bolts will be a gold color once the oil and grease is removed and are 10.9 grade.

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

Last edited by trottida; 07-13-2015 at 01:37 PM..

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Old 07-13-2015, 01:39 PM   #12
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

As to both dogbone mounts. Depending on the model year they may be 37ft-lb for both bolts, 37ft-lb for the oval end bolt and 52ft-lb for the round end bolt, or 52ft-lb for both bolts. Generally speaking if you find a gold colored bolt or a bolt with 12.9 marked on the head then the proper torque is 52ft-lb. If the car has the 3rd design dogbones then the 52ft-lb specification is likely in 1 or the other combination.

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Old 07-13-2015, 01:49 PM   #13
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1999 SL2
2001 SL1
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
As to both dogbone mounts. Depending on the model year they may be 37ft-lb for both bolts, 37ft-lb for the oval end bolt and 52ft-lb for the round end bolt, or 52ft-lb for both bolts. Generally speaking if you find a gold colored bolt or a bolt with 12.9 marked on the head then the proper torque is 52ft-lb. If the car has the 3rd design dogbones then the 52ft-lb specification is likely in 1 or the other combination.
OldNuc, just to clarify, are you referring to the 2 bolts that goes through each end of the dogbone itself?

The other specs that I brought forward from your past posts are for the dogbone cradle mounts that attach to the subframe (I'm pretty sure)

...
1999 SL2 MT (287,130 km @ 10/2019)
2012 Ford Focus SEL HB MT
2011 Suburban LT

Past Saturns
2001 SL1 MT (438,500 km 11y)
1993 SW2 AT (10y)
2001 LW200 MT (3.5y)
1992 SL2 MT (5y)

:canada:

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Old 07-13-2015, 01:51 PM   #14
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Yes, that is just the 2 bolts the attach the individual dogbones.

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Old 07-13-2015, 02:00 PM   #15
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Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

(This is on my neighbor's 96 SL2.) Thank you very much! Will go back and re-tighten all bolts.

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Old 07-13-2015, 02:18 PM   #16
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Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

The 96 may be 37ft-lb for dogbones or mixed 37/52ft-lb, look closely.

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Old 07-13-2015, 02:25 PM   #17
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Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Quote:
Originally Posted by OldNuc View Post
The 96 may be 37ft-lb for dogbones or mixed 37/52ft-lb, look closely.
Thank you, OldNuc!

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Old 07-13-2015, 08:03 PM   #18
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1997 SL2
Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHughes View Post
Oh, also, when torqueing the dogbone mounts onto the car, these are the only specs I can find for those. They are----------

Engine Mounts
Front Mount to Block 52
Rear Mounts 35
If you're the goofball at Tires Plus her in GA, just keep on beat'n that air tool until block shavings come out.

...
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280Kish miles

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Old 07-13-2015, 08:51 PM   #19
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Default Re: Top motor mount studs don't line up

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Originally Posted by Bildo Baggins View Post
If you're the goofball at Tires Plus her in GA, just keep on beat'n that air tool until block shavings come out.
Nope, I'm the "goofball" from California!

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