2001 Saturn L300 (L81/3.0L V6) - Lower Intake Manifold Gasket/Thermostat Replacement

[BrandonKastning]

Originally Posted by fdryer

Ask your neighbor. A helping hand works in mysterious ways when stuck with one point of view. There will always be someone smarter. The best part is the smarter person helps without imparting negative feelings.

fdryer,

Thanks. I would rather not receive a helping hand.

Good advice for someone who is not me!

[BrandonKastning]

Alright;

Since I pulled the Thermostat out and installed my new one with success until the very end when my gasket fell out *again*; only this time it happened after RTV was applied and I successfully attached the thermostat housing to the extension tube with the "pop" of the dual O-Rings.

I learned various maneuvers that I hope helps someone in the future.

1) By pressing down on the big hose to the left of the Dip Stick; this will raise the Thermostat Extension Tube (when the thermostat is not installed).

This was useful for when I was replacing the O-Rings on it (Not as easy as it looks and truly requires a gasket pick tool). I used White Lithium Grease; worked great.

2) Using a pry bar or a gasket scraper on the metal piece with the ear that fdryer cautioned me to be careful with; does indeed break. I did it! However; when using the pry bar or gasket scraper (I will be trying again keeping my gasket scraper furthest left). When pulling this metal piece outwards, causes the extension tube to move toward you... which is absolutely critical in "breaking the dual O-Rings" from the Thermostat Housing and for fitting the Thermostat replacement in.

3) When replacing the old thermostat + housing... the easiest way I figured out how to do this. Is push down on the big front hose; this flips it up (extension tube); freshly lubed and greased up with new O-Rings... then at the same time; rotate the thermostat + housing sideways so the thermostat is facing the drivers side of the car. Once you get the extension tube in the hole; THEN rotate the thermostat + housing face down and then you will have to use a gasket scraper or another method to pull the metal piece; which pulls the extension tube so you can fit the thermostat + housing in the very very very tight place it belongs.

Learning these 3 tips; should grant me a success my next attempt at a successful install and a solved thread.

I bought more Permatex Waterproof Grey for another attempt.

oh... This brings me to #4) If you look at my Thermostat that I removed... it doesn't look the same (the gasket) as my new one. I now know why; I believe without proving it that a rubber gasket O-Ring; just like the one that fell out before I could bolt the E10 Torx Bolts down on a successful replacement as seen in the following picture Galleries was placed inside and then RTV was put on top to create a seal so it does not fall out *twice* in my case; first time; and then the second time, regardless of lithium grease; fell out right before I could put my bolts in.



Start again another day!

Below is Gallery A:

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-B:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-C:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-D:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-E:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-F:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery Part-G:

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Gallery Part-H:

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Gallery Part-I:

[BrandonKastning]

It appears as if I am not destined to keep this car.

For some reason the bolt hole on the right side won't allow either bolts to proceed past a certain point.

I removed the anti seize and used a paper clip to try and clean the hole out (wasn't anything in there but a little bit of dirt).

I brought them down at the same time (both bolts); pressed forward on the thermostat while ratcheting the right bolt down and it gets very tight at a certain point with much room to go before a torque down. (I refuse to break another bolt head like my engine mount).

I have a strong feeling that it's impossible to safely run this engine without both bolts all the way in. And I have zero idea besides having my holes re-drilled to remedy this situation. My guess is I used too much anti seize OR ruined it somehow bringing the bolt out on the initial removal of the already installed thermostat.

Here is Picture Gallery A:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery B:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery C:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery D:

[Rj 2000 LS2]

You could have coolant in the holes which is preventing the bolts to seat properly. Or, perhaps you mistakenly are using the wrong bolts. Either way, don't force them. Use a vacuum to suck up anything in the holes. Bolts should be finger tight (providing there is no rust etc...) and only require torque when the bolt head contacts the surface of that being secured. Don't try to drill them out. You don't want to drill on a hole into the engine or any part for that matter. Just take your time and check all possibilities first. Sometimes, sleeping on it and looking at it fresh tomorrow will help.

[fdryer]

The bolts are too long. Somewhere somehow, either you're using a new thinner mounting ear t-stat housing or used bolts for something else. The t-stat housing mounting holes appear to match the threaded holes on the engine.

Those two bolts simply bottomed into the threaded holes leaving a large space between the bolt head and t-stat housing (seated on the engine block). Find two shorter bolts. It's not recommended to use anti seize on these bolts because anti seize is used in areas requiring high torque where corrosion may occur between dissimilar metals. Blue loctite is recommended. The bolts must be shorter than the sum of t-stat mounting ear thickness and the depth of the threaded holes. Subtracting two or more millimeters from this should match the nearest bolt length available. The shorter bolt will allow correct tightening torque without hitting the bottom of the threaded holes.

[BrandonKastning]

fdryer,

I don't know how that is possible. However the thermostat's do look different. Minor differences.

I did check and swap the bolts (left to right) and I received the same results. (The left one goes down all the way) and the right one does not.

Where would I go about getting new bolts to try?

Originally Posted by fdryer

The bolts are too long. Somewhere somehow, either you're using a new thinner mounting ear t-stat housing or used bolts for something else. The t-stat housing mounting holes appear to match the threaded holes on the engine.

Those two bolts simply bottomed into the threaded holes leaving a large space between the bolt head and t-stat housing (seated on the engine block). Find two shorter bolts. It's not recommended to use anti seize on these bolts because anti seize is used in areas requiring high torque where corrosion may occur between dissimilar metals. Blue loctite is recommended. The bolts must be shorter than the sum of t-stat mounting ear thickness and the depth of the threaded holes. Subtracting two or more millimeters from this should match the nearest bolt length available. The shorter bolt will allow correct tightening torque without hitting the bottom of the threaded holes.

[BrandonKastning]

fdryer,

After reviewing what you said; I carefully compared the thermostats. And you are indeed correct; they are very different as far as the housing and thermostat design regardless of the "compatibility checker" for my car on Amazon.

I found the exact original one on ebay. I am purchasing this now. I don't know where to get bolts though; hopefully the ones that match identical will work with my existing bolts.

Thanks fdryer!

Best Regards,

~ Brandon

Originally Posted by fdryer

The bolts are too long. Somewhere somehow, either you're using a new thinner mounting ear t-stat housing or used bolts for something else. The t-stat housing mounting holes appear to match the threaded holes on the engine.

Those two bolts simply bottomed into the threaded holes leaving a large space between the bolt head and t-stat housing (seated on the engine block). Find two shorter bolts. It's not recommended to use anti seize on these bolts because anti seize is used in areas requiring high torque where corrosion may occur between dissimilar metals. Blue loctite is recommended. The bolts must be shorter than the sum of t-stat mounting ear thickness and the depth of the threaded holes. Subtracting two or more millimeters from this should match the nearest bolt length available. The shorter bolt will allow correct tightening torque without hitting the bottom of the threaded holes.

[lrbraner]

Any decent hardware will have a selection of metric bolts.

[BrandonKastning]

Originally Posted by lrbraner

Any decent hardware will have a selection of metric bolts.

lrbraner,

Thank you! I just found the correct bolts and the correct thermostat that matches perfectly to the one I pulled by picture comparison.

I found the correct bolt here on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-GENUINE-G...s/264676470869

($13 / bolt) - and it's showing a torx head as opposed to a strange 13mm that I used to pull and put those in.

I ended up getting 2 x bolts GM Part # 24455322 from https://www.gmpartsgiant.com


and ordering

"Genuine GM Thermostat Housing 55353492 New"

which is the exact same one I pulled.

Hope this does the trick! Thanks for noticing the bolts RJ/fdryer. I was puzzled when they weren't torx. I just don't remember pulling the old ones and them not being torx heads.

Automotive is sure expensive! wow!

Best Regards,

~ Brandon